tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN September 7, 2015 10:00pm-11:01pm PDT
in bahia you find yourself in the heart of the heart of brazil, where the magic comes from. if you want to get there, just follow the sound of the drums. this is salvador de bahia, city of 3 million people, first capital of brazil. the wellspring for everything african and spicy. where things seem to just sway and move constantly. it's a place where everybody is sexy, where even the ugly people are hot. unsurprisingly, this is where artists come from. african spiritualism, occult magic, candomble, and capoeira. >> caipirinhas. >> caipirinha. >> did i mention caipirinhas? they do those here, too. i like them.
i like them a lot. >> what's magical about this cocktail is the first taste, it's like i don't know, man, it's a little too something. then like that second sip, it's like oh, that's kind of good. then the third sip, it's where are my pants? fortunately, food in these parts tends to be, shall we say, hearty. for instance, a delightful meal of fried meat with plenty of absorbent starch product like farofa, the perfect accompaniment to many, many caipirinhas. >> oh, excellent. obrigado. now we're talking. it's a tough town for vegetarians. oh, chorizo, good. i'll have six more of these, please. people are staring at me. look at the heathen hump of an american, how much he's eating.
♪ >> welcome to salvador, my friend. >> good to be here again. >> oh, yeah? >> love it here. >> please. one cup for you, man. welcome to salvador. >> thank you. >> this is claudio and maurelia. it's good to have friends in a place like salvador. in fact, you're pretty much lost without them. >> salud. >> thank you. [ speaking foreign language ]. >> right. >> cool. >> tuesday night. >> yeah, man. tuesday nights are very impressive. many people come to church first, next you go to drinking around. try some place, listen to music. in the corner here, man. >> people have to work tomorrow, right? i guess that's brazil, right?
>> yeah, it's brazil. but you have this kind of behavior here, but not in the whole city. >> how different is salvador from rio and sao paolo? >> man, salvador is the mother. you know? the music here, the attitude, this area is amazing. >> it is. >> amazing. eat, drink, history, memory, anything. >> pelourinho, pelo for short, was salvador during the portuguese colonial period. it's almost always a party, a series of parties, actually, but tonight is special. ♪
>> look at this smell, man. >> smells good. >> yes. >> oh, that's good. >> isn't that good? >> where to next? >> go to this area. >> yeah. >> i like to bring you today because coming here, people everywhere, this is a free party. you can dance, you can drink your beer everywhere. it's good to see the show inside. it's amazing. ♪ >> you'll try that. >> what is it?
>> it's carameo, clover and a mix of honey and limon. >> alcohol? >> yes. >> alcohol of unknown origin dispensed from atop the head of a stranger? >> it's good. >> that's good? >> mama always said that was a good idea. ♪ i don't know if it's the booze or the music or the tropical heat, but after a while bouncing from place to place, wandering down old cobblestone streets, different music issuing from everywhere, a different party, people flowing out of buildings, one gathering, commingling with another, the music mixing. it really does seem that everybody is moving to some mysterious unknowable pulse, some unheard throb that moves people to constantly touch each other, stroke hips, necks, limbs. ♪ ♪
it is useful to know that of over 12 million africans dragged, ripped and kidnapped from their homelands, nearly 5 million ended up in brazil. 1.5 million of them in bahia alone. pelourinho became the locus of a vast infrastructure of plantations and the slave trade that powered them. making this city in northeastern brazil the most opulent in the new world. pelourinho, it's worth pointing out, gets its name from the whipping post.
100 years after slavery was outlawed in brazil, pelourinho had been forgotten but of course, the neighborhood had its charms. if you were an artist, a musician, a writer, you could afford to live here. cheap rent for long-time locals or shiny new art galleries and hipster cafes, we know which way the current of history runs. ♪ >> [ speaking foreign language ]
>> here, though, one man stands alone. jaime figura, a poet, sculptor, painter, musician, now perhaps his own greatest artistic creation. he's chosen to hide his face from view and to stand in opposition, an eyesore, a rebuke, a defiant, gwar-like embarrassment to the occupiers. >> as he dresses now, this is for protection but as i understand also protest. >> [ speaking foreign language ]
>> it's a kind of protest but also protection. you know? >> who's the enemy? >> [ speaking foreign language ] >> everyone. you see face, you see heart. >> how long have you been wearing the armor? how long? [ speaking foreign language ] >> 46 years. >> 46 years. that was a long time ago. you ever go to the beach? [ speaking foreign language ] >> no sun. only shadow. >> darkness. you're goth, dude. >> whiskey. and coca-cola. but not sun. no sun. not water, not sun. >> just down from where we're sitting, jaime's pelourinho studio. his water and power have been shut off. but he insists he's going
nowhere. brazil is supposed to be about what, music, dancing, sun, hot women. does he reject those things? does he think that's [ muted ] ? [ speaking foreign language ] >> i am in the wrong country. >> where would the perfect place be? [ speaking foreign language ] >> rock city. >> rock city. that's detroit. >> detroit. >> detroit. >> detroit, rock city. what music inspires him? >> iron maiden. >> iron maiden. i think they're touring, actually. >> too much. >> nirvana. >> nirvana. metallica? >> beethoven. metallica, beethoven. >> what do you think about all this? anybody who comes here recognizes immediately that this is a really uniquely extraordinary and, despite many problems, a uniquely wonderful, magical place.
>> it's a magical place but also for us, for me and for him, here is a place where many people black people have suffered. there is still one kind of karma of this old history here, you know? >> so what is the real pelourinho? [ speaking foreign language ] >> we are. >> we are. [ speaking foreign language ] >> we are the real pelourinho [ speaking foreign language ] ♪
♪ i don't like pina coladas but i like walking in the rain. i like wandering through markets as much as the next guy, but what i really like are neurotoxins. in japan they call it fugu. yeah, yeah, yeah, its eyes, ovaries and internal organs are just packed full of varying amounts of toxins and some hysterical ninnies will tell you that the toxin present in the blow fish is 1200 times more potent than cyanide. and they'll tell you how if it's
consumed you'll remain conscious while your muscles gradually become paralyzed and death like a low-moving freight train looms closer and closer. and whatever you do, just make sure you cut out that liver. i say bull [ muted ]. so we're eating blowfish. >> yes. it's an adventure. >> like the japanese, they like the poisonous stuff. >> i know, i know, yeah. >> but they remove the liver and skin. >> it's supposed to be removed properly. >> properly, right. i saw a "simpsons" episode, i think. >> this guy make it great. >> poisonous blowfish moqueca a recipe. add coriander, coconut milk, dende oil, cover, and simmer. i am confident in this cook i don't know. and in this man, my host and an aficionado of this dish.
smelling good. >> bon appetit. >> thank you. >> this is a lot of pepper, huh? >> oh, yeah. good pepper. nice and spicy. i can't feel my legs. is that a bad thing? >> bel is an artist, after all. a very famous one. so he knows about neurotoxins. he comes from a long tradition of artists who have found inspiration in bahia. is there something about salvador you think that's conducive to an artistic sensibility? there is so much color here and music. >> the light here is beautiful. >> the light is really special. just the colors of the city are amazing. the colors of the people are amazing, and the way they move. >> they move. >> i don't know, when i first came here, i thought everybody
in this city looks like they just got -- or they're on their way to go -- [ laughter ] >> so this was the central market back before supermarkets, this is where everybody did their shopping, right? >> oh, yes. this is the real brazil here. the real bahia. >> right. >> this place is intestine of the city. they sell shrimps and stuff here, oil and stuff. this kind of oil. we call it dende, palm oil. how everyone will call. >> i love the dende oil. it takes some getting used to. the first time i was here you eat it, you -- like a mink for hours afterwards. now, no problems. i've been eating this all week. love it. you spend time in brazil -- >> you develop resistance.
>> there you go. hope you like spicy. he's a brazilian cat. he's got to like spicy. [ speaking foreign language ] a little cachaca. >> yes. >> that will set you right. >> i think now you're protected from the poison. ♪ >> we're coming up to the world cup and i think a lot of people are going to be reading about crime and all of that. how do you think it's going to go, the world cup? disaster or it's going to somehow work out? >> i think it will be a success. >> you think it will be a success. >> i'm sure of it. >> salvador is one of the host
cities for the 2014 world cup. a huge stadium has recently been completed, but a lot of people are worried, concerned, if brazil is ready. i have been told thousands of prostitutes are studying tourist-appropriate languages in preparation, so probably a lot of people are going to get laid, a lot of people are going to get robbed, a lot of people are going to get laid and robbed. >> have you ever been here in carnival? >> no. >> the world cup is that carnival. >> that works out, right? that's not a slaughterfest. >> it's a breakfast. >> right. >> things happen but it works. >> salvador in particular is a place where -- >> may i? >> thank you. no matter what, people should come. even people who are afraid to travel, who say oh, well, but i hear. no, you know what? this is -- live your life, man. come -- you should not miss a place like this because it's -- there aren't a lot of places in the world that even come close to this.
>> where we are today, i invited you to have this dish. we are not going to die. we are not born to die. >> i'm pretty sure mr. muffin stuff over here isn't going to suddenly jump on me, start clawing my face. >> if the poison was active, she was dead. >> i didn't think of that. we shall call you canary. >> we are not born for dying. >> no. ♪ st living life. and milking it. start every day with the power of protein and milk life.
my name is jamir dixon and i'm a locafor pg&e.rk fieldman most people in the community recognize the blue trucks as pg&e. my truck is something new... it's an 811 truck. when you call 811, i come out to your house and i mark out our gas lines and our electric lines to make sure that you don't hit them when you're digging. 811 is a free service. i'm passionate about it because every time i go on the street i think about my own kids. they're the reason that i want to protect our community and our environment, and if me driving a that truck means that somebody gets to go home safer, then i'll drive it every day of the week. together, we're building a better california.
the bay of all saints, a vast natural harbor, allowed salvador to prosper. tucked along its shore, if you look hard enough, you'll find a small grouping of shacks roofed in corrugated tin. this is where a local fishermen's association brings their catch to sell to wholesalers, then relax after a long day on the water. catch of the day, the prized big red snapper. rub with sea salt, lemon, olive oil, grill over charcoal. enjoy view. so everybody here is fishermen? [ speaking foreign language ]
>> meet maloca, a very special guy. he's been working as our head of security and as for reasons that are immediately obvious, he enjoys respect and reputation on the streets. but he also comes out of this neighborhood and these guys are his friends. how's business now? lot of fish out there? fishing business good? >> [ speaking foreign language ] >> lunch wouldn't be complete without a delicious spicy salsa of garlic, tomato, onions and peppers. on the side, some deep fried little smelts. don't forget the beer and the cachaca and enjoy. >> that will work. looks like a big grouper. >> big. >> it's a big redfish. today.
[ speaking foreign language ] >> i have to advise you that -- >> it's spicy. >> it's spicy. >> what do they drink, beer or cachaca? >> we do it. >> both. all right. [ speaking foreign language ] >> still working? [ speaking foreign language ] >> he work more than all of us. [ speaking foreign language ] >> they use a line or net? >> my secret is just the hand around a piece of wood like that and take like that. >> they don't cut the hands? >> always cut their hands.
>> fishing anywhere is hard and the way these guys do it, particularly hard. mostly hand lines from small boats. just look at these hands. you're a hard man. literally. [ speaking foreign language ] ♪ >> yeah, that's what i want, right here. oh, yeah. jackpot. that's, you'll pardon the expression, some good head. >> the fisherman loves the head. >> it's awesome. >> it's the best part for them. [ speaking foreign language ]. >> tuna. looking good. throw him right on the barbie.
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♪ [ speaking foreign language ] >> caipirinha? ah, the caipirinha man. this indispensable icon of brazilian beach culture is known to start with fresh lime, muddle and mash with more lime juice, sugar, ice. the magic ingredient, cachaca. that's basically the distilled liquor of the sugar cane. shaken, not stirred, and you've got yourself one of the world's truly great cocktails. the utility beverage good for any time of day or any social occasion. very satisfying. ♪
♪ >> look at this line. these guys are famous. acaraje. i've had it before. i have had it here, in fact. these ladies make it good. really good. the clothes go back to the newly freed slaves who now were able to practice their religion and began selling the acaraje to support the candomble community.
what is acaraje? behold. a paste, a batter, a falafel-like wad of smooshed up black-eyed peas, seasoned with ground, dried shrimp and onions, deep fried till crispy and golden in some chili-spiked dende oil. already if you're a rookie you're guaranteed some quality time on the porcelain bus real soon. on the top you've got your vacapa which is sort of a shrimp curry paste. and your tomato salad. your fried shrimp a must. >> all right. beautiful. >> don't forget the hot chili oil and prepare for liftoff. really good. ♪
hide that stuff, whether it was your religion or your self-defense skills. so tell me about capoeira. >> it was a kind of martial art but in the beginning of the 19th century capoeira became more like a game and the music instruments were associated to the fight. >> no hands, right? all feet and head. why no hands? >> we use the hands in just a few movements. >> where did that come from and why do you think that became -- >> some people say that this is inspired by the animal movements. >> in a recent study observing the comparative destructive power between kicks from various martial arts, of karate, muy thai and tae kwon do, it was capoeira that packed the most ferocious impact. the colonial masters knew this
and made it illegal for much of brazil's history. today maestras like johnji and paulina teach in classrooms and on stages. >> originally it was a male-dominated activity. when did that change? >> since the '60s. we start our process in the beginning of the '80s. and nowadays we have hundreds of women practice capoeira. >> what was it like in the beginning, the very first women who did it? >> mothers or fathers or the family -- >> right. >> said that capoeira is not for women, why do you decide to do this? >> afro-brazilian cuisine is the result of many, many years of cooks experimenting with african and portuguese dishes combined with local ingredients like seafood, chilies, coconut milk. this is angelica's house. open one day a week as a restaurant serving her unique style of bahian dishes.
>> beautiful. wow. look at that. >> looks very good. >> how has being a master of capoeira, how has that changed the rest of your life? >> i think changed it a lot. women in general, they don't learn to fight. learning how to be involved in real fights, game and fight at the same time, we became more prepared to be involved in symbolic fight and in our society, the women, they are not so well prepared like men. [ singing in foreign language ] >> it was purely african in the beginning, and now it's afro-brazilian form, is that correct? >> all the instruments are african instruments. >> right. they're singing. a lot of singing, and it's important.
>> yeah. yeah. in portuguese, but we in our group in capoeira, we start to include music from multi-cultural african cultural traditions including lyrics in african language. >> all the things that we look at as brazilian from outside looking in, the cuisine, samba, all of these things are very african in origin. this is kind of where that all started, yes? i mean, i don't want to say it's the real brazil. everyone looks at rio as the postcard brazil, but here it's really, you feel it. those things. >> it has to do with this big concentration of africans since the beginning. it's different. [ speaking in foreign language ]
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chance to hire a boat, head to the beach with a bunch of new friends, bring along a skilled mixologist expertly trained in the fine art of caipirinha making, why wouldn't you? charge across the water. headed for a nice, quiet island. order up some sun to come out from behind dark clouds right about -- now. sometimes cliches are cliches for a reason. because they're good ideas to start with. which is why people keep looking for them and doing them over and over. ♪
in a perfect world upon reaching said enchanted island you jump into the warm atlantic waters. and if you could, you'd have a classic soundtrack to this adventure like samba, for instance. splash around for a while. maybe enjoy a nice cold beer or two. >> you truly have not taken a beach until a man that's set up the caipirinha station. then you know the lz is secure. i love nature. and caipirinhas. ooh, what's going on here?
caipirinha. please. sweet. this alone is an argument for the greatness of this country. and what goes great with caipirinhas on the beach? how about some barbecue? ♪ >> you eat it with the shell here, by the way. unless i'm mistaken. please, morrissey, don't eat me. look in your heart. don't eat me. oh, no. not my head. oh. well. >> to complete the picture, maybe a large fish. maybe some crab. >> you know, anytime you get
your chinese, your brazilians and your italians all agreeing on something, it's pretty clear it's a really good idea. everybody agrees that this complicated-looking creature with all these troublesome shells is worth the work. sow tear off the little limbs. we'll get to you later, my friends. rip out the tail. these are the lungs. you don't want them. now you've got all this nice fat in there. oh, yeah. now we're getting to the claw. look at that. what's poking out of there? oh, yeah. that little nubbin of goodness like a celestial nipple. oh. when people started demanding boneless stuff like chicken without a bone, or crab meat without the actual crab or lazy lobster, that was the beginning of the erosion of our society as we know it. if you're not willing to work for a payoff like this, how do you expect us to like fight al
qaeda? if you can't suck the meat out of a crab. a character builder. and delicious. >> and if your perfect day really did happen, you'd probably let yourself be swept away. by liquor and good food and gin-clear water while all around you horny brazilians casually fondle each other, get all dozy, and fall asleep. ♪ ♪
-- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ they don't look friendly. who are those -- anyway. some ugly dutch guys, it looks like, with guns. i'm guessing particularly friendly to the current power. they look like they are either coming from or going from an oppressing the black man. first order of business, man. when i take my country back, first order of business is to take that -- down. am i right or what?
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