tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN September 26, 2015 9:00pm-10:01pm PDT
for now, however, i'll settle for fixing my headache. that hurt. peru is a country that's historically driven men mad, mad for gold, for cacao, for its magical ancient history. now, there's something else drawing outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys. we love the stuff. we obsess about it, gorge on it and fetishize it. i'm talking about chocolate, once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine making the pursuit of the raw good stuff all the more difficult. i'm joining that hunt in remotest peru, but not before i've re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene.
eric ripert. >> he was looking at this, he went into the tree. >> that's funny. >> chef of the world famous restaurant le bernardin in new york. to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, the very expensive limited run designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year. so that's why we're in peru. but before we get all indiana jones we're spending some time in lima, as we like the capital city just fine. and we have, both of us, from previous trips, friends here. lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of world class chefs, cooks and restaurants. it has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america. >> good. >> how far away is the house? >> that's it. >> yeah. >> five minutes. >> one of our friends here is
chef restaurateur, coque ossio, one of the best most successful chefs in the country. his family is something of a beloved culinary dynasty in peru. and pucusana, a small fishing village about an hour south of lima is where they spend their weekends. coque's mom, marisa guiulfo, is like peru's julia child and james beard rolled into one. >> thank you for having us. >> a cookbook author, an icon of peruvian gastronomy. to say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an understatement. warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. >> too bad you have to leave so soon. >> yeah. >> normally, we have lunch late, like 5:00. >> do you nap before lunch or
after? >> both. >> sounds like paradise. wow. look at this. >> every weekend, marissa opens the house to an ever changing mob of friends, visitors, drop-ins and family. >> this is fantastic. >> they do not skimp on the food. delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen, a torrent, a deluge of traditional peruvian favorites. >> i do this with crab meat, yellow potato and avocado. we love avocado. >> it is like a tureen of crab meat, eggs, avocado and mashed yellow potatoes. >> okay. >> this is from the coast. >> beautiful. >> basically raw king fish dressed with aji amarillo paste, and lime juice. >> perfect. >> that's scallops ceviche. >> fresh scallops and lemon juice and garlic.
drum fish, braised with a corn based beer. >> they look fantastic. >> this is spicy. >> very spicy. >> and stuffed rocoto peppers filled with ground beef and raisins, served with cheese. >> wow. >> are we lucky or what? >> we are lucky. >> that's just the beginning. there's so much more food there's no way we can show it all, much less describe it. it's incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what i'm used to. >> it's fantastic. >> i could frankly get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on marissa's porch and pretty much dig in for the duration. this is living. >> those little fish are amazing. they're so fresh. >> i want to be her next door neighbor. >> it's so good. >> so has peruvian cuisine
always been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last 15 years? >> it's changing any way. what you're eating now is the traditional food. >> there's so many products in peru that are unfamiliar to people in the states. when you eat this food, it's something like. it's not kind of like anything. >> it's a lot of ingredients. good ingredients all year round. >> it is very good. >> what do you do when you're homesick for peruvian food and you're traveling? there's really -- >> we take some chiles with us in the luggage. we're the perfect smugglers. >> i hate to say good-bye to this but it is what it is. things to do and places to go. wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees to visit. >> incredible meal. so happy. [ speaking foreign language ]
>> all i can say is if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, it's going to be okay. lima, city of kings, home to a third of peru's people. locals escape by hanging out at the beach. why not, when you can maybe get a tattoo while you're at it. is that sanitary? ♪ >> you've been here before. >> oh, yeah, man. ♪ >> i take eric's suggestion and we head over to see chef javier
wong, the uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising ceviches and his flaming wok. if peru has a national dish, it's probably ceviche. the freshest fish only needs the right cut, a little citrus and no heat. what's the most common thing people do wrong? >> the quality of the ingredients. you don't do a ceviche with something that's not fresh. >> the cut and the thickness. >> right. >> when you do it, you don't do it ahead of time. >> the whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day, same for everybody. today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so that's what we're getting. generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices and acids.
first up an octopus and flounder ceviche. >> i don't know what to tell you, man. it's damn good. >> it is good. >> is this spicy or not? >> you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it? me neither. i don't like pain. except -- >> as painful as the pepper. >> brutalized with a pepper. i like. >> that's really hot. >> it's flounder dressed with pecan, lime, aji limo and sesame oil, clearly eric likes. so you're not like foraging in the catskills for your inspiration? you basically rip your ideas off small businessmen? >> it's okay? >> si. >> superb. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chinese and japanese
immigrants came to peru in great numbers in the 19th and 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence is felt here, particularly in the food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. it's that influence and the ingredients of amazonia and the andes that really distinguishes the food here as something special. >> what is this? tofu? >> queso fresco. >> this is not traditional. >> it looks asian to me. i believe it's probably -- >> his name is wong. unless he's a retired porn star -- this shouldn't be good but it is. we're going to have a sweat on that one. might have a couple more beers after this. have a nice nap, midday nap. but i keep it growing by making every dollar count.
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one more day in lima, the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. >> a special one we prefer here. it has a kind of lime that we find in the jungle. >> coolentro? >> it's like cilantro and much more powerful in flavor. >> it would be wrong to not point out that peru, along with brazil is at the forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique larder from the andes and the amazon, flavors you find no place else on earth. >> there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the amazon because of its amazing spectra entirely new to most of us of ingredients. pedro schiaffino is at the cutting edge of exactly that territory.
his restaurant, amaz explores the rivers and landscape of peru, highlighting a range of products stunning in their diversity and to us, their newness. >> you have tuna, plantain vinegar. that's the cashew fruit. the nut is a fruit in brazil. and here we use the fruit. >> hmm. >> we make these scallops with wild almond. >> the almond is very, very soft, like the flavor of it and complements very well. >> this one is fresh water shrimp. dashi, made of taro root and shrimp. >> whole new flavor spectrum, all new. it's almost like you need a new section of your tongue. >> it must be exciting because they're an amazing garden with the amazon. >> that looks good. >> this is a soup made of ham with peanuts and corn. >> hmm. i like the food.
i've enjoyed these cocktails, too. cashew. >> we're going to be wasted. >> we'll be fine. oh, whoa. >> this is also tradition. this is called patarashca. they season the fish, put it on a leaf and cook it. the fish is catfish. in the amazon we have like 200 types of catfish. >> and the flavor from the leaf, too. >> and here we have the arapaima, the second biggest freshwater fish in the world. underneath you have a puree that is a pam fruit and a production of fermented yucca. >> fermented. >> or poisonous. >> they let it ferment it and it becomes -- you can eat it. >> these fish are unbelievable. they get up to 600 pounds and they're swimming in water no deeper than a rice paddy. >> really? >> giant. they're like dinosaur fish. everyone has been saying for
years peru will be the next big thing as far as restaurants and -- >> it is. this really prove it. >> and we have a chili pepper made with nuts and ants. wow, they're huge. >> huge ants. >> you want to try it? >> yeah. totally. you're not loving that, are you? >> no. >> imagine, you took a lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants and you go home and you experience violent diarrhea, and, like, you're tripping. it's, like, 4:00 in the morning and you turn around and look at the toilet and all these ant heads floating around in there. it would be cool. >> it would be cooler only i can't wait. >> now that we've confirmed what we already knew, that peru's food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper we take a trip back in time to meet the forebear's of this country's rich cultural legacy.
the larco herrera museum in lima has a massive collection of pre-colombian artifacts. looking at them, you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like, how they lived. >> wow! this is like the real stuff. >> i think so. right. i mean, it's the real deal, yeah. >> gold necklaces. you see where the spanish just freaked out when they came here, turned into maniacal greed heads. but history does not have to be boring. it can be sexy. i don't know whether you knew this, but i am an aficionado of early erotica of pre-colombian and post-colombian eras, you know, pottery of people doing it. >> i should have known that. >> turns out things can get pretty interesting back in the day. oh, yeah. those guys can get crazy and get
wild and apparently very kinky. >> the erotic gallery. there you go. that's a conversation starter. >> i take eric to the pre-colombian boning section, actually the erotic pottery section. slip of the tongue. >> amazing. >> which sounds about as much fun as an all nude renaissance fair, but actually pretty cool. nothing new under the sun these pre-colombian horn dogs didn't think of first. that's disturbing. a chicken. >> i'm not sure i understand this one, tony. >> i think we frown on that these days. wow, they're doing it under a blanket. this must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame. ew, skeletons with boners. >> they are zombies.
>> getting zombie old-fashioned. >> yes, tony. i really appreciate your knowledge. >> i wonder if this was decorative or whether this was really porn. >> i think they put it in a closet somewhere. >> i bet this was right on the table. come on in, have a cup of tea. sit down. oh. here's some animal-on-animal action. pretty awesome. >> yeah. this is interesting. yeah. i'm happy we made it here, tony. that was an enlightened moment. ♪
>> something about steamy xxx pre-colombian erotica always makes me hungry. luckily at night, lima comes alive with the smell and familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat. it's time for delicious screamingly hot garlicky spicy flavor jack street meats. and as anybody who knows me is well aware, i love me some street meat. >> it is starting to disappear. >> really? why? >> the neighbors -- >> they complain? >> complain. >> our friend, coque, brought us to this place, to dona pochita, a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint. they specialize in one thing. anticuchos is -- for skewered meat. this stuff, they say, goes back all the way to the incas and as immediately popular with the spanish conquistadors as it is
today. which is to say, i must have some. traditionally a mixture of beef hearts and other animal parts. >> hearts and gizzards. >> marinated in garlic, cumin, and onion, maybe a little vinegar. >> oh, yeah. >> grill it up and pile it on high. >> these are not small portions. these people are giving you mountains of food. it does not get any better. voila. let's do it. ♪ man, that's awesome. >> yeah. beef hearts. that is some magical [ muted ] right there. >> it's very garlicky. the marinade is nice. the tripe? from the pollo. chicken heart. >> that is seriously tasty. the beef heart or the chicken heart, the texture is so nice. [ speaking foreign language ]
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lima. it's peru's fourth largest city, with over a half million people living there. it's our next stop, the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find our cocao. chocolate. we know we like the stuff. how is it made? where does it come from? columbus was the first european to encounter cocao beans on a mayan trading canoe off the coast of honduras. he's said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to spain. a few decades later a spanish conquistador, hernando cortez, came across aztecs using the sacred beans as a drink. it was considered the drink of the gods. like most expensive and delicious things from abroad, the largely inbred and frequently syphilitic european royalty did their best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate to themselves. but it soon found its way to
america. in 1765, the first chocolate factory opened in new england. chiclayo's main market is a massive one-stop shop for all things chocolate as well as just about everything else under the sun. oh, man you have your animal skulls. that's tempting. haircut? >> i'm good. >> wow. >> cacao. >> this is the raw beans? >> that is toasted. >> then she -- >> grinds it. >> then puts it in a mold. gracias. >> bitter. >> not sweet at all. >> no. >> they don't put sugar. >> actually, here we are in the area of the market that is, i believe, where they have what they call santarias.
ripert, how should i put it? let's say he has more of a spiritual side than me. >> this is all the ingredients that you need for the shaman to bless the rest of the cacao. >> okay. >> so he has us shopping for what i guess i'd call shamanic supplies. which place are we going to? i like the lady with the sunglasses. >> i like it too. >> medical medicinal herbs with supposed magical properties and stuff for this shaman dude to bless the cacao crop. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this one is amazing. smells really good and supposedly purify the house. >> smells like hippie. >> the shamans are really well respected in the peru region. they cure everything, do
ceremonies. >> good? >> yes. >> our journey continues by road as we leave chiclayo and head east toward the andes. >> originally two hours north from here. you have the indians welcome you -- >> with blow darts. >> yeah. >> before we get too deep into the mountains, we're stopping off to meet our shaman. ♪ [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony, he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us. >> okay. [ speaking foreign language ] >> it's a meteor stone. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's cleaning. all the negative vibrations. ♪
[ speaking foreign language ] ♪ >> close your eyes. he cleaned you and he wished you a lot of success. [ speaking foreign language ] >> a little bit more, especially in the back, the neck, and the back. that's here, and the chest. a little bit like that. >> we wanted a blessing for our cacao harvest. we got this. my aura is now cleaner than gwyneth paltrow's colon after a three-month juice cleanse. to a successful harvest.
[ speaking foreign language ] but we're not done. we have to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves. >> i know you won't believe it but the energy has changed. i'm serious, not joking. >> listen, i'm not disbelieving. i have an open mind. eric and i are heading to the maranon canyon, eight hours by car from chiclayo, well into the andean highlands. ♪ on the way, we stop for lunch and meet up with this guy. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chris curtin, master chocolatier and our business partner in this knuckle-headed adventure. one of life's great joys, eating in a peruvian market.
>> i love markets for breakfast. it's nice. >> so basically, a hen soup. that's good. where in the world does chocolate come from? >> well, 45% from ivory coast in africa. we don't deal in those beans just because of political situations. >> there was this stuff, the special chocolate. >> yeah. >> which pretty much is what we're here to look at. >> yes. absolutely. >> where it comes from, what's involved. >> eric ate some of chris's chocolate and heard about these wild cacao trees he was sourcing from in peru and promptly got me involved in this designer chocolate bar business. >> i'm a rather famous guy and i never cared about desserts. you on the other hand, eat chocolate every day? >> every day. >> so here we are, three men and a chocolate bar. good thing for the world or exploitive opportunism, yet to be determined. what do i, after all, know about
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farmers that supply the beans that make our chocolate and get me an education in all things cacao. the roads up into these mountains can be tricky, so we got to take care of the local vigilante dudes that run a roadblock here outside of town. it looks like a shakedown but they're a welcome sight. this hill, where cars have to slow down, was where all sorts of highwaymen and miscreants used to waylay travellers like us. so these guys stepped in to take care of business. >> wow, that was a big shotgun. that will shoot through an engine block. actually, i don't really know but i'm assuming. at this time of year, there's also the rain and mud, which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads. and there's this, the river.
in the best of circumstances, a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across, a long line across a fast moving current, the ferry propelled only by the flow of water. but today, the river is too high and the current too fast. it's these smaller boats or nothing. when dealing with complex transportation issues, the best thing to do is pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out. >> yeah. let's go in the boat. >> to my crew, i say good luck. we're headed for what looks like bar on the other side. [ speaking foreign language ] let me tell you, it's quite a ride. >> i'll go the last. ♪
>> water inside the boat. look, look, look. the boat is sinking. ♪ >> you got to go down and then up, just right! we make it to the other side, reasonably dry. beer? the maranon canyon is home to a wide range of species including and most interesting to us a strain of the cacao previously thought to be almost extinct. a few years ago, the valley's cacao trees were dna tested at a u.s. lab and had dna of the rarest form of cacao in the world. this stuff.
the real deal. don fortunato is our cacao connection, a farmer whose family has been working these mountains over 40 years. >> they're just absolutely beautiful when they start out. >> really kooky looking pods as they just come off the trunk of the tree. they sort of look like someone glued them on to the side of a tree. this is a once a year crop? >> it grows continuously but this is a peak seasons. >> try that. put one in your mouth. bite it and see the nibs inside? those are the cocoa nib. >> where does chocolate come from? >> the bean. okay. here's where chocolate comes from. the trees produce pods. you split open the pods and take out the beans. the buyer sun drys the beans, then roasts them. after roasting, the beans are extracted from their shells and
ground up, producing chocolate liqueur. mix this concentrate with milk, sugar, cacao butter and you get what we call commercial chocolate. now, our chocolate bar sells for a nosebleed price that's high by even premium chocolate standards. so where does the money go? most importantly to me and eric, are we doing a good thing? here's how it breaks down. the raw cacao costs one chunk. labor, the inner sleeve, this much. design, box, packaging, this much. various sundry equipment and miscellaneous, another small chunk. chris, me and eric get a slice out of every bar. that leaves this much, which the retailer takes. chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity. >> what's unusual about these pods? these beans? >> extremely high quality
flavor. >> thought not around for a while? >> this is what almost all chocolate was made of over 120 years ago. now it's making a giant comeback. for a chocolatier, this is a once in a lifetime find. >> about 40% of the beans from these trees have white cacao beans mixed in. the rest are purplish in color. but we've heard of an ultra rare group of trees elsewhere further up the mountains that produce pods of all 100% pure white beans and that's something that me and eric are very interested in down the road. but for now, don fortunato's daughter, johanna, has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal. >> wow. >> oh! >> juanes. >> it's rice dumplings with boiled chicken and achiote inside. >> wow. this is amazing. not surprisingly, some cuy, or
guinea pig, of which there seems to be many around for the taking. this preparation served with a cacao sauce. >> that's good. >> all of this food is delicious. >> so chocolate, it is a luxury food item. >> yes. >> this is an area abundant with coffee, chocolate, fruit. how's life for the locals? [ speaking foreign language ] >> he says that 20 years ago, 25 years ago, it was easier for him. he was planting soybeans and coffee. >> right. >> he was making much more money. and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and the coffee production went down so therefore he had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees they are planting, he has no more stress and fairly upbeat himself. (man) hmm. what do you think?
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another farmer elsewhere in the valley. we thought it would be a nice gesture given all the culinary talent between us to make him and his family dinner in return for his hospitality. >> what are you thinking? >> butterfly marinade grill. >> you could do that with a nice sausages. >> which would be nice to throw in with stew. in chorizo, chicken, onion, peppers, a little bit of spice. >> and potatoes? we're kind of moving into the spanish and what's it called? >> and we can use shrimp from the guy. shrimp and chicken works. >> that sounds like a plan. [ speaking foreign language ] >> you have 24? >> yeah. >> successful. >> yes. so far. but wait until we arrive there. it's going to be interesting. >> don't be a downer, man.
i'm optimistic. we arrive at the village where the fabled white cacao beans are said to be growing and meet with the village's unofficial mayor and our cacao farmer, who will lead us to the trees. what was a depicted as a short walk up a short incline turned out to be an epic hump up one hill after another. >> when you tire up, you tell us. we will stop. >> when i slump to the ground and urinate all over myself, that will probably be a tip that i probably want to stop. another reason i hate the swiss, mountains. >> i love mountains. >> eric, who grew up in the pyrenees, is up the slopes like a gazelle. me, i feel every year of my misspent life with every step. >> oh, geez. >> this is cacao. >> are we there? >> no, no, we're not there.
>> he's a baby. only 22 trees. >> i wish i could hear you over the sound of my exploding capillaries. >> okay. by the time we get near the fabled trees, i'm toast. gasping for air, waiting to puke from the altitude and the exertion. >> so, tell us again, what's unique about these trees? >> just because they are all white beans, all white. >> which is a rarity. >> so these are the only known all-white, 100% pure? >> that's right. >> and why is that good? >> it's a new variety and gives new flavor profiles to it. >> a good flavor profile? >> yes. >> i assume because i've humped up a big [ muted ] hill. excuse me. oh, nice catch.
machete. >> watch your fingers, man. yeah. that's it. >> there we go. and i'm going to repeat myself. >> all white. >> remember the shaman. well, we still have stuff to do with the package he gave us. we do, presumably, want a good crop. better get right with the spirit world. >> oh, geez. a little shaman juice thrown around, bury the purified soil, and there you go. chocolate magnates. well, good luck, dude, to a good harvest.
♪jake reese, "day to feel alive"♪ ♪jake reese, "day to feel alive"♪ ♪jake reese, "day to feel alive"♪ so you're a small business expert from at&t? yeah, give me a problem and i've got the solution. well, we have 30 years of customer records. our cloud can keep them safe and accessible anywhere. my drivers don't have time to fill out forms. tablets. keep it all digital. we're looking to double our deliveries. our fleet apps will find the fastest route. oh, and your boysenberry apple scones smell about done. ahh, you're good. i like to bake. add new business services with at&t and get up to $500 in total savings.
♪ the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me. time for me and chef ripert to get cooking. back to basics. wood fire. ingredients from the morning and this old recycling system. here little fella. >> i'm ready for chicken. >> okay. here we go. >> and the red wine. >> notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the [ muted ] job. >> now we have to make the mashed potato and we're good. >> eric's mashed potato secret, around 50% butter. the glory that is france. i think they call it gout. okay. let's do it. ♪ [ speaking foreign language ]
♪ >> gracias. >> you guys can cook. >> some say. >> sometimes. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's the only guy who has the white cacao. he asked all the farmers in the village here to do exactly what he has done. so the farmers are starting to copy him. >> right. >> and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth, in the village, in the valley, in the community. afterwards, don makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation. ground cacao nibs, no sweetener, no milk, no nothing. just like the ancient kings liked it. >> there we go. gracias. the real deal. >> only water, and they will use -- >> before chocolate hit europe.
this is what the aztec kings would drink. >> they would be jealous right now. >> you'll get yours eventually. >> gracias. mucho gracias. salud. >> that's good salud. >> salud. >> gentlemen, to education. >> yes. >> so, did we do the right thing? is it all right for two new yorkers to make money, however much, or however little, off the work of struggling farmers in a faraway land? fortunada, alberto, chris, everybody down the line, all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees, seem pretty happy to be doing what they are doing. but do i want to be in the chocolate business? that's something i'm going to have to figure out. but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our
shamanic obligations. >> guys, you need to get out. the guy is coming with his bike, and he doesn't care. >> a bridge. a bundle of eucalyptus leaves. a badly working lighter. got to get right. >> smells like ganga. do you have a lighter? >> we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times. >> got something. >> oh, too moist. oh, you got it, man. >> okay. >> smoking. >> that's smoking. i'm going to get it. hold on. now i've got it. >> let's do it. >> okay. oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. that's coming.
i got it. we did it. >> over. >> okay. done. hey. we have a problem with chocolate, i tell you that. >> get into the coffee business. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com mexico is a country where every day people fight to live. all too often, they lose that battle. a magnificent, heartbreakingly beautiful country, the music and food, and a uniquely mexican, darkly funny, deeply felt world view. right down there, cuddled up beneath us, our brother from