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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  December 25, 2018 1:00am-2:01am PST

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i envy you, zack zamboni. and we're out. nice end. >> anthony: i'm told you're a man who can help me. sometime in mid-19th century, 1850s, my great-great-great-grandfather jean bourdain emigrated to south america. he was reported to have died here. might have been a seeker of utopian dreams. you know, my aunt used to tell
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stories he was into arms smuggling, or, who knows. you know? no idea. ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la,
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♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ >> anthony: for most people, paraguay is an empty space on the map of latin america. a country of only six million, where a vast percentage of the land is steamy hot jungle, or a huge scrub desert known simply as the chaco. only a few large cities offer a respite from the oppressive heat. a thousand miles upriver from
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the atlantic ocean sits asunción, paraguay's remote capital city. known largely for being a post-war refuge for fleeing nazis and a long line of extremely unpleasant dictators, this place, of all the places in the world, is where my great-great-great-grandfather jean bourdain disappeared without explanation sometime in the 1850s. i'm told you're a man who can help me. >> pedro: hi. >> anthony: how do you do? pedro? >> pedro: how do you do, tony? >> anthony: how do you do? >> pedro: may i call you tony? >> anthony: please. >> pedro: you are, for the first time, in the country? >> anthony: first time in paraguay, yes. lido-bar in asunción has always been like the central switchboard, a gathering place. ladies in orange vests cook and serve old-school paraguayan working-class food to people from every walk of life.
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>> pedro: this place is very unique in asunción. >> anthony: yeah? >> pedro: it has been here for more than 50 years. >> anthony: all right. let's get something to eat, i'm hungry. >> pedro: okay! >> anthony: empanadas de carne. big envelopes of dough filled with beef, onion, and hard-cooked egg, deep-fried to perfection. cattle is the big business of this country. it used to be cattle and smuggling. these days it's still cattle, and some smuggling. you see a lot of beef, is what i'm saying. mm! ooh, that's good. this country is a mystery to most people. what little we know of the country generally comes from nazis and germans hiding in paraguay from war crimes. i mean, do you think that's undeserved reputation? >> pedro: i don't think -- i don't think it's fair. >> anthony: you don't think it's fair. >> pedro: paraguay is a nice country. paraguay is a beautiful country. >> anthony: pedro is a private investigator, one of a team of people i sent out looking for the mysterious, lost bourdain. what kind of investigations are
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you called upon to do? >> pedro: normally, it's counterfeiting. >> anthony: ah. this is, sort of, the counterfeiting capital of the world. in the old days, it was said that much of this counterfeiting had partners in the government. not so much anymore? >> pedro: i rather don't -- don't answer that. i mean, i'm -- i'm not a politician. >> anthony: yeah. >> pedro: and i'm living here, so. >> anthony: general alfredo stroessner was the last of his kind in paraguay. of german heritage, he ruled the country until 1989 with a quiet bavarian charm, but behind the scenes was another thing. utilizing an outfit of ss-trained secret police referred to as the "hairy-footed ones," he tortured and tossed dissidents out of helicopters over the jungle, and the list goes on. under stroessner one in four paraguayans is said to have cooperated, willingly or not, as paid informers on their fellow citizens. it's quite a history, this country.
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crazy, tragic, violent. >> pedro: let me put it to you this way -- things are changing a lot. and now, things are getting are straight. >> anthony: sometime in the mid-19th century, 1850s, jean bourdain emigrated to south america. first in argentina, but apparently came here. that's really almost all i know for sure. did he die by the sword? did he die of old age? did he die of syphilis? i have no idea. i'd like to know. i'd love to find a gravesite. that would be great. you know, my father died at 57. his father, i think, at 20 -- in his 20s, i believe. i'll be 58 in june. i think i am the longest-living male bourdain in possibly ever. >> pedro: so you are lonely in the world. >> anthony: i am lonely in the world. yes. if i could solve the mystery of the elusive jean bourdain, that
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would make me very happy. by the way, it would be terrific if you found out that he owned a huge ranch in the chaco, and they've been waiting to, for his relatives to claim his property. nah, maybe not. maybe not. i'm trying to make some sense of this country. you've lived here how long? >> peter: i'm -- since 22 years. too long, maybe. what a strange and nice country. >> anthony: go to paraguay, find a german to show you around. not so crazy or unrepresentative. people came to this country from everywhere to, as emerson called it, "make their own world." peter, i'm tony. >> peter: nice to meet you. >> anthony: so, what's good to eat here? >> peter: i suppose you want something paraguayan. >> anthony: yes.
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>> peter: bife koygua. it's arroz, rice, with fried beef, with an egg on top. >> anthony: oh, done. i'm there. good. >> peter: and there is a soup whose name is bori bori, that's very, very old paraguayan stuff. little corn balls. >> anthony: whoa, that looks good. it looks very good. >> peter: ah, yeah. >> anthony: that's good, man. i'm trying to make some sense of this country. you've lived here how long? >> peter: 22 years. >> anthony: why'd you come here in the first place? >> peter: i was born in east germany, and east germany, that meant you will never go out. >> anthony: mm-hmm. >> peter: yeah, and then in '89, the wall break down and said, "wow! you will go!" >> anthony: i haven't seen anything of this country yet. but what i read was, the world's backwater, filled with bombed-out banks that have been
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looted, institutions that didn't work, everyone carried a gun. it was like the wild west, but poorer. it's not that anymore? >> peter: uh, a bit of this is true. i, by myself, got a .45 on my head last week, that's -- that's pretty common stuff, for me. >> anthony: seldom, in the history of the world, have i seen any country where, one after the other, you've had absolutely the most maniacal, insane, suicidal group of piss-pot dictators, century after century. >> peter: you are right. even in the stroessner times, the better part of paraguayans was behind him. paraguayans are very, very easy to influence. and this is, i believe, unchanged until a short time ago. now, there is a growing middle class, better education than before, and that makes the people say no. >> anthony: how was the soup?
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>> peter: i liked it, yes, it was the way my wife cooks it. i like it better with chicken, but chicken is more for saturday. >> anthony: ah. (client's voice) remember that degree you got in taxation? (danny) of course you don't because you didn't! your job isn't understanding tax code... it's understanding why that... will get him a body like that... move! ...that. your job isn't doing hard work... here.'s making her do hard work... ...and getting paid for it. (vo) snap and sort your expenses to save over $4,600 at tax time. (danny) jody...'s time to get yours! (vo) quickbooks. backing you. and i'm the founder of ugmonk. before shipstation it was crazy. it's great when you see a hundred orders come in, a hundred orders come in, but then you realize i've got a hundred orders i have to ship out.
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>> guido: paraguay was a very poor country. the spaniards came because they thought there was a lot of silver in the area. they found nothing, so they lost interest in paraguay. >> anthony: this is the only country in latin america where the indigenous language is the official language. >> peter: they talk guarani automatically. i'm married toa paraguayan woman, and when her father's coming, they automatically talk guarani, and i'm, more or less, out. >> anthony: a proudly mestizo society. >> guido: yes. >> anthony: was it de francia? >> guido: yeah.
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el supremo. >> anthony: el supremo! gotta love it. >> anthony: a nearly two-hundred year succession of dictators began in 1811, when josé gaspar rodríguez de francia declared himself el supremo for life. de francia insisted paraguay become a mestizo, mixed-race society. >> mario: paraguayans are neither spanish nor indians. we are mestizos. >> anthony: yep. >> peter: el supremo forbid maritals between whites and whites; he produced the mestizos by force. >> anthony: today, ninety-five of paraguayans are of mixed spanish and guarani blood. >> mario: and we usually speak the two languages. >> anthony:right. this is central market? >> mario: mercado cuatro. >> anthony: cuatro? this is the big one? >> mario: the biggest one, the most popular one. >> anthony: i'm hungry.
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what's good here? >> peter: we opted for the soup from the mandi'y fish. it's a little catfish. >> peter: and, okay, the saying is that it makes man very powerful. >> anthony: ahh. what's -- what's he got over there? that looks good. >> peter: gnocchi and stew. there was a good italian influence in paraguay, so maybe this stew comes from this side. colonies from all over the world. >> anthony: so you invite them, give them the catfish soup, make their dicks hard and be fruitful. >> peter: mario, could you pass me the sopa paraguaya? the paraguayan soup. >> anthony: that's soup? >> peter: yeah. >> mario: soup. it's very unique. >> peter: our dictator lopez,
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his favorite soup was a corn soup. and, one day, he ordered his favorite soup, and the cook, when he opened the pot, it was a cake. >> anthony: paraguay has not been noted for its history of kinder, gentler leaders. in the 1800s, two generations of lopez, father and son, one dictator after the other, certainly left their marks on this country. >> peter: lopez was pretty much known that for putting the wrong stamp on a letter, you get shot. so the cook didn't want to get shot. and he showed up in front of lopez and said, "this is paraguayan soup! sopa paraguaya!" and the dictator ate it, and he liked it! and a bit later, the entire country eat it. >> anthony: it's like cheesy cornbread! >> peter: yeah. >> anthony: awesome.
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good meal. so, this was the house of, or, one of the houses of the notorious madame lynch. >> guido: right. exactly. >> anthony: journalist, poet, and author guido rodriguez alcala has written books on paraguay's history. now, who exactly was madame lynch? a murky background would you say? >> guido: there's a lot of talk about that. >> anthony: right. >> guido: somebody say she was a great woman or that she was a very evil one. >> anthony: she came over on the famous trip from france. >> guido: right. >> anthony: succeeding de francia in 1840s lopez senior reversed many of paraguay's isolationist policies. he invited foreigners to settle here and built one of south america's first railways. its steam engines taken out of service only a few years ago. and he sent his son, francisco solano lópez, to europe. >> anthony: in his mission, his
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father had sent him out to get what? arms? >> historian: arms and technicians, british engineers, and machinery. >> anthony: junior, by most contemporary accounts, was an idiot. so, he came back with a mistress. madame lynch. >> historian: yes. >> anthony: which dad wasn't too happy about. >> historian: right. he was very traditional and wanted his son to many a paraguayan woman. >> anthony: mhmm. >> historian: to do everything by the book. >> anthony: right. paraguay's soon-to-be first mistress, madame eliza lynch, was the already-married daughter of an irish doctor. ambitious, social climbing, fond of nice things. >> guido: blouse imported from france. they say she brought to paraguay the first piano. and there were parties here.
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>> peter: he showed madame lynch to his father, and his father was upset. so she was put aside, and, uh -- >> anthony: kept as a mistress. >> peter: and that was the way paraguayan society tried to treat her, and she wanted to be treated as the -- >> anthony: princess. >> peter: yes. >> anthony: tell me about madame lynch's famous boat trip. on one of her more notorious ventures as hostess, madame lynch organized a grand outing to the new french colony at nouveau bordeaux. she invited all of society to join her. >> historian: right. >> anthony: a magnificent river steamer was engaged for the party. >> guido: and, well, there were some tensions between the paraguayan ladies and madame lynch. >> anthony: once on board, as the story goes, those mean bitches treated their hostess like so much trash.
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>> guido: and so she got upset and threw off board all of the food which they were supposed to eat. >> anthony: she had it all thrown in the river? >> guido: yes. >> anthony: then she ordered the captain to stop the boat and let her guests just sit there, in that jungle heat, for hours. throwing tubs of caviar, whole roasted pigs, into the river in front of these starving aristocrats. somehow, that pleases me. from the first loving touch everything that touches your baby should be this comforting pampers swaddlers, the #1 choice of hospitals, is 2x softer and wraps your baby in our most premium protection so every touch is as comforting as the first pampers the #1 choice of hospitals, nurses & parents
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>> anthony: going back to the very beginnings, various groups with stars in their eyes came here seeking to create a utopia along ideological lines -- a mennonite paradise, repopulate latin america with aryan germans, british, italians, i mean, you had everybody. >> peter: yes. it started with the jesuit colonies. >> anthony: yep. the new bordeaux. i had a great-great-great-grandfather come over to paraguay around the 1850s. >> peter: right. >> anthony: might have been, himself, a seeker of some kind of utopian dreams.
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>> pedro: but they were originally from france? >> anthony: from france. yes. >> pedro: what city, do you know? >> anthony: my great-great-grandfather was from near bordeaux. so, i'm, i'm curious about this whole episode of the settlement of nouveau bordeaux. >> anthony: the paraguay river still, as it was a hundred and fifty years ago, the country's main artery; a thoroughfare for transporting people and goods.
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♪ so, who lives out there? all the people we see fishing on the, uh, riverbanks? are they fishing for dinner? >> peter: most of them are fishing for dinner. call them poor people. but what is poor? they decide by themselves to live here. they could go to asunción and start working on a construction place tomorrow. >> anthony: peter has organized a trip upriver to see new bordeaux, what was hoped would be a new france in the chaco. >> peter: the fish we bought today, fourteen kilo -- >> anthony: right. >> peter: that's half a month's salary. and you get, with a bit of good luck, in one night. >> anthony: right.
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♪ outside of the cities paraguay is, of course, sparsely populated. indigenous groups, a few settled europeans, mennonites, germans and every so often, a fishing lure and shotgun salesman. >> peter: guarani. >> anthony: pete, what are the shotguns for? bandits? varmints? uh what, uh -- >> peter: to hunt deer and water-pig. capybara. >> anthony: that's a peacemaker. any rogue nazis we can shoot? no? i am tempted by the offer of a cheap shotgun for sale. and, it figures, peter would know this guy, but reason wins out.
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i don't -- i don't think we're gonna buy a shotgun today. me, beer, shotgun, hot, sunny day, and producer. that's not a good mix. unlike madame lynch's guests, i'm making sure i'm eating on this boat trip. ah, the most important part of any meal-- cold, frosty beverages. >> peter: you already have one. >> anthony: i started early. >> peter: cheers. >> anthony: cheers. oh, here we go. thank you. grilled fish in a mango salsa. >> peter: you have the two most appreciated fish here on the table of paraguay. >> anthony: yep.
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>> peter: that's the catfish, surubí. >> anthony: and that? >> peter: that's the dorado, the golden fish. >> anthony: oh, the dorado. of course. yes. ooh, that's tasty! ooh, that's nice. >> anthony: so, i'm -- i'm curious about this whole episode of the settlement of nouveau bordeaux. >> guido: there came about four hundred people. they were supposed to be about one thousand. they were supposed to be, most of them, farmers. but just eighty-six were farmers. >> anthony: who were the other people? just -- >> guido: they were tailors; they were shoemakers, musicians -- >> peter: teachers and artists, and they were put in the jungle and left by themselves. >> anthony: right. why here, of all of the places in the world? people talk about the chaco as a hell. i mean it's hot here; it's dry, it's wet, it's fetid, it's difficult. >> guido: big mosquitoes, and you have all the ticks and all kinds of vermin. >> anthony: a flatland of cactus and thorns and misery and
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cannibals. >> peter: there was the indians, the guaycurú, coming down the river and killing everybody. there was the lengua who, if you entered the country, you are good food. >> anthony: right. did the paraguayans ever see this as a utopia? >> peter: no. i'm sure not. what we have ahead is nueva bordeaux. >> anthony: wait a minute. that? >> peter: this. >> anthony: wow -- it's kinda not how i pictured it. doesn't look like bordeaux to me. >> there's nothing much left of nouveau bordeaux. i'm told a small museum of artifacts. the site where the only once briefly existed is now called villa hayes.
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>> guido: and the men who contracted them was given money for each settler. >> anthony: perhaps there was a communication breakdown somewhere and he might've told the paraguayans that, "i'm bringing you the finest farmers france has to offer." >> guido: right. >> anthony: and he might've told these frenchmen, "oh, they're gonna give you free property, you don't have to do anything. you'll live like kings, it's a land --" >> guido: possible. >> anthony: "just reach up in the trees and fruit and gold bars are dropping." >> peter: in fact, they were thrown out in the coast and say, "here you are! that's your land. go ahead!" >> anthony: these poor french guys show up. >> guido: right. >> anthony: uh, lópez senior, and the government, kept their side of the bargain.
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they provided them with, uh -- >> guido: yes. right. >> anthony: houses, equipment. >> guido: tools and animals and everything. >> anthony: man i used to have one of these, make pressed sandwiches i think. and that's it. "okay, now dig, grow --" the settlers quickly discovered that farming is hard work, and that the conditions in the chaco in no way resembled the new france of their dreams. that was a big snake. >> guido: so, they get broke and they decide to leave the colony. >> anthony: how many french were left at the end of the new bordeaux experiment? did any stay? >> guido: some of them, but few. >> anthony: all right. any thoughts or hopes that jean bourdain ended his life here, leaving me a vast, unclaimed stake in what is now prime cattle country turns quickly to dust.
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>> anthony: so, you guys have some information, perhaps, on the elusive jean bourdain, i hear? >> natalia: mhm. >> anthony: yeah? >> natalia: mhm. >> anthony: i don't what he did here. of course, i'm hoping for something, you know, extremely glamorous. a river pirate. a gunrunner. drug smuggler. maybe he died in the saddle. maybe he died happy. maybe he was like colonel kurtz, living out in the bush, surrounded by adoring, indigenous women. i don't know. you know, if he was a masseur for madame lynch, i guess i'd be let down. >> eduardo: i contacted with another historians and
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genealogists around the world and the history of your family is very interesting. >> anthony: oh, really? >> eduardo: yeah. >> anthony: okay, interesting. >> eduardo: yeah. your family, your grandfather jean bourdain came to montevideo following the son. >> anthony: okay, the facts as i know them so far, i think, are this. my great-great-great-granddad jean, his son, also named jean, came to montevideo, uruguay to live with his uncle. >> eduardo: 1850, jean bourdain moves to asunción. >> natalia: this is the document that we have showing him arriving. >> anthony: there he is. >> eduardo: in that time, he worked with, eh, chapelier. with ? >> natalia: with a hat maker. >> anthony: hat maker? i'm pretty sure he said hat maker. which, i have to say, disappoints me, like, a lot. >> natalia: and here you see "chapelier." >> anthony: the whole elusive wing of mysterious south american bourdains were project runway contestants of their day? >> eduardo: in 1855, lópez's son arrived to asunción.
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>> anthony: right, with madame lynch? >> eduardo: with madame lynch. >> anthony: madame lynch was fond of, uh, things like french, uh, couture. >> eduardo: yes, yes, and that changed the way of dress in asuncion. >> anthony: madame lynch might've been good for business. i'm trying to put this at a light i could be enthusiastic about. like, how clearly forward thinking my relatives were. his customers, as a hat maker, the very people who treated madame lynch with such utter contempt. did they live in the colonial homes, the old mansions that we see still in asuncion, that type of residence? >> eduardo: yes. >> anthony: times were changing in south america, too, in those days and society ladies craved the latest in haute courant french fashion. there was money to be made, there w- eh, bump. >> peter: short after this episode with the new bordeaux group came the triple alliance war. >> anthony: jean bourdain died in 1858. >> eduardo: yes, before. >> peter: it was a good time to die because this way you hadn't to join this horrible war. >> anthony: he'd miss the war? >> peter: yeah.
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the old lopez died, the young lopez got in power. >> anthony: our man becomes, uh, president. >> guido: yes, francisco lopez. >> anthony: absolutely the most maniacal, megalomaniacal, piss-pot dictator. >> peter: you are right. >> anthony: he was rather unkind to his siblings. >> guido: his two brothers were tortured and killed. >> anthony: right. >> guido: the sister who went to jail, taken into tiger cages. >> anthony: tiger cages. yeah. >> guido: tiger cages. and, the mother was given some beating. sixty-something. >> anthony: right. his sixty-something year-old mother was flogged and beaten in front of him. not a nice man. >> peter: he believed that he had a chance to get married with the daughter of the imperator of
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brazil. >> anthony: of brazil, that's right, yeah. he was refused in very unflattering terms. thanks presumably, to lopez jr.'s expansionist ambitions, he dragged paraguay into the triple alliance war. he essentially challenged all three neighbors. >> pedro: brazil, argentina, and uruguay. >> anthony: to war. this doesn't seem like a good idea. >> pedro: ah, yeah. >> anthony: right. in what would become the bloodiest war in latin america's history, hundreds of thousands of paraguayans died. when lopez ran out of adults, he sent children into the field dressed only in rags, armed with sticks painted to look like guns. >> guido: my great-grandfather was a ten year-old boy and he was dressed like a girl because otherwise he was going to be enrolled in the army. >> anthony: lopez, eventually, he was hunted down. madame lynch survived. >> guido: yes. she survived. >> anthony: but with her money? i mean, she was allowed to keep her possessions? >> guido: yes.
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>> anthony: in history it's hard to find a more disastrous, or more cruel, or a pointless campaign it would seem. when all was said and done, as much as sixty percent of the population and ninety percent of the men of this country were dead. >> guido: the survivors were just, like, fifty or forty thousand people so that's why you could easily understand why there was nothing here for a hundred years.
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>> anthony: jean bourdain dies here. >> eduardo: yes. before the triple alliance war. >> natalia: an adult natural of france by the name of juan bourdain. >> anthony: right, cause of death? >> eduardo: not specified here. >> anthony: is there a gravesite? >> natalia: we're looking. >> eduardo: we're looking for it. well, here's to first dates! you look amazing. and you look amazingly comfortable. when your v-neck looks more like a u-neck... that's when you know, it's half-washed. add downy to keep your collars from stretching. unlike detergent alone, downy conditions to smooth and strengthen fibers.
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you had a few. no, you had a lot. you want something greasy, savory, juicy, and nasty. >> anthony: this is it. the legendary lomito. >> peter: right. that's what today's people eat in the streets of asuncion. >> lomito complete. >> anthony: an egg, a little runny please, some kind of meat like beef patty thing. throw on your lettuce and tomato. two sauces, no idea what they are and i frankly don't care, soy sauce i think too, of course, because, yes. layer it like the ruins of ancient troy. egg on top of cheese on top of meat. >> anthony: ooh. thank you. now get in my stomach now. mmm. that sandwich is awesome. >> peter: awesome good. >> anthony: good awesome. all my greasy meat dreams have
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come true. that's good. and, at the last moment, and the last thing i give a steaming loaf about anymore, is my long dead relatives. i mean i am over it. here comes news of the big breakthrough. >> peter: i talked with the historian and he said it looks like your great grandfather, what he was merchandising, it was definitely not hats. >> anthony: really? >> peter: we have here, jean bourdain. >> anthony: right. >> peter: and what is he bringing? two hundred boxes of fireworks. >> anthony: fireworks? >> peter: fireworks. >> anthony: like firecrackers? >> peter: there is not even more than two hundred or three hundred wealthy families who sometimes in a birthday would crack a little bit. >> anthony: uh-huh. so are you suggesting something untoward? >> peter: weapons. >> anthony: weapons? >> peter: yeah. >> anthony: he was a merchant of death? awesome. you know, my aunt always said he was a gun-runner.
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we figured she was full of --. i mean, she also said she was in the resistance, you know, but everybody in france said that. arms? so, was he ever a hat maker? was this a cover job? was he a hat maker, slash arms -- are all these local researchers, historians, and geniuses on the money here? was great-great-great-grampy an arms dealer? so what hat maker needs two hundred tons of gunpowder? i've got you now jean bourdain. i've got you now. or was he simply a party supplier selling fine french hats and little firecrackers to school kids? i don't know what to believe. >> peter: and in '58, unfortunately he died. >> anthony: right. >> peter: and he was buried, here. two miles from here in recoleta. >> anthony: mhm. >> peter: the rich people's cemetery. >> anthony: yeah. >> peter: we can pretty well say on which area he remains.
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he is there. >> anthony: wow. well, i guess we'll have to go look, huh? >> peter: definitely, yeah.
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♪ >> anthony: sorry little buddy, there's no escaping it. paraguay loves their beef. it's a perfect ratio. a lot of meat, a little bit of vegetables. perfect. mhm, oh whoa, that's good. this is the estancia cora rodeo. a sprawling ranch bigger than some of the countries i've traveled to, and it's been in the family going all the way back to the triple alliance war. hard life? >> jose: no, no. >> anthony: good life. >> jose: we are pretty happy here. we have everything.
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>> peter: twenty years ago the chaco was not used and the last years it's booming. >> anthony: what -- where's the boom come from? >> peter: we are the second biggest soybean exporter. the eighth biggest cattle exporter. paraguay feeds the entire world for eight days a year. >> anthony: how many acres? >> jose: uh, thousands. >> bettina: a hundred thousand. >> anthony: a hundred thousand hectares? >> jose: si. >> mario: barbeque has to be included in a celebration. >> anthony: barbeque like asado. >> mario: asado. if you have sausages. >> anthony: chorizo, morcilla -- i could eat this all day and i will. >> jose: with barbecue, you are complete. ♪
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>> anthony: right. right. mmm it's awesome. so are there a lot of vegetarians in this part of, uh, paraguay? i don't know. >> peter: oh there comes the, what is for the paraguayans, the highlight. >> anthony: oh, look at that. it's pretty. beef short ribs are amazing. mm. so good. all of the books i read about paraguay are maybe fifteen years old and, like, the first advice is, "everybody has a gun, buy a gun." >> bettina: yes, it is true. >> anthony: mentality.
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this was not the paraguay i expected at all. >> jose: it's too different. >> bettina: please, he wants to sing a song for you. >> jose: a welcome song to the foreign people. ♪ >> peter: it says, not says welcome stranger. it says welcome brother, stranger. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: the jean bourdain who died here in asuncion was my great-great-great-grandfather. >> peter: yes.
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this old cemetery recoleta. >> natalia: it seems most likely that he was buried there. ♪ >> anthony: nobody i know. >> peter: it's very, very likely that the tomb was just overbuilt. >> anthony: right. >> peter: something on top. ♪
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♪ ♪ [ dog barking ] >> anthony: so, i'm trying to understand buenos aires, and i've only got a week. ♪ ♪


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