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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  November 28, 2019 7:00pm-8:00pm PST

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america, people are learning there is no them. there is only us. and we're going to have to figure this out together. ♪ >> anthony: and vacation over, as we headed home to our regular beds, our daily lives of school and homework and ordinary things. maybe, my little brother, maybe i, would wake up and look out the window at the night sky, and suddenly it would fill with stars and golden mist and we'd pretend for a second we were somehow deep inside the milky way. a million winking lights, but we knew where we really were.
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we were almost home. ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ >> anthony: oh, enchanted land of my childhood. a cultural petri-dish, from
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which regularly issues forth greatness. new jersey, in case you didn't know it, has got beaches, beautiful beaches, and they're not all crawling with roid-raging trolls with reality shows. i grew up summering on those beaches, and they are awesome. jersey's got farmland. beautiful bedroom communities where that woman from real housewives who looks like doctor zaius does not live, nor anyone like her. even the refineries. the endless clover leaves of turnpikes and expressways twisting in unknowable patterns over the wetlands are, to me, somehow, beautiful. to know jersey is to love her. ♪ fort lee, you may have heard of it. some of governor christie's minions allegedly conspired to
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jam up traffic for a few days. it's a town with a jokey history of corruption. it's also where my beloved hiram's is. open since 1932, and pretty much unchanged ever since, my dad started bringing me and my younger brother chris here in the '50s and they still honor tradition. >> hiram's waitress: two chili cheese dogs. >> anthony: my happy place. sometimes i just need that old time flavor, you know? as soon as i could chew food, basically, my dad would take me here. it is a great point of pride and personal satisfaction that i've convinced my daughter that these are the finest hot dogs in the land. she gets very excited to come out here, which makes me very happy. thank you. thank you. now this is key, these tooth picks -- just like 1958. some things just shouldn't change. my dad used to love piccalilli, red relish. i love this stuff. look at that beauty.
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oh yeah, i come here to feed my soul. the cultural wellspring that is new jersey. it's the antidote to every other place. this place is perfect. the dogs are amazing. there are not a lot of people in this world courageous enough to not change. ♪ down the shore. yeah, we actually talk like that. it was what we did. go down the shore. not just our family from bergen county near the bridge, but middle class and working class families from philly and all over who'd pack up the kids in
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the station wagon from the seemingly interminable trip to long beach island. just getting out of the driveway was a big deal. >> chris: plus, it always took three extra hours just to load the damn cars, you know? >> anthony: there was always drama. >> chris: strapping crap to the roof of the car. >> anthony: where once we were over the manahawkin bridge, the excitement would ratchet up. ship bottom then surf city, harvey cedars, loveladies, ticking off the town names until finally, finally, barnegat light. that's new. these are all new. that's original. >> chris: yeah, definitely. >> anthony: in fact, i think i know who lived there at one point. that's awesome. >> chris: that's definitely old school. >> anthony: but, look, let's face it. it's been how many years? i mean, like, 40? >> chris: uh, there's a four on it, i think. >> anthony: jesus, we're old. and the lighthouse -- >> chris: i definitely remember going to that lighthouse a lot of times. >> anthony: ah, the good old days. i want some fried clam strips. >> chris: absolutely.
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>> anthony: well, our options are limited, shall we say, but holy crap this place is filling up. >> chris: i think because it's the only place. >> anthony: yeah, but still, who lives out here year round? >> chris: we're about to see every single one of them. >> anthony: let's be honest. when we'd come here in the summers, i was the bad one. >> chris: yes, your recollection is correct. >> anthony: i was up to every variety of criminal anti-social behavior. i didn't smoke dope for the first time here. i was looking for dope, but as a 12-year-old, it was hard to come by. >> chris: i think i vaguely remember you walking off with some kind of cute girl. >> anthony: first kiss -- that was an important passage. oh, this is good. >> chris: this is good. >> anthony: i realize now that i hitchhiked regularly. >> chris: yeah. >> anthony: "mom, dad", you know, "i'm going to go down to ship bottom tonight, you know, with some friends." "how are you getting there?" "well, i'll hitchhike down." "okay, have fun." >> chris: that was cool. all the kids were hitching here, that's how you got places here. ♪
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>> anthony: summer time. do you know that sound? just out of the water, ears pressed up against the beach blanket, the squeak of bare feet on sand nearby. classics illustrated comics waiting for me back at the house. i'd play with my little plastic army men in the dunes. and there's a smell of beach grass in the dunes. you know? can you remember it? >> chris: i still crave it. i love it. >> anthony: and on special occasions, clams in drawn butter. no matter where i find them now, they always bring me back here. >> anthony: i remember this place with nothing but fondness. i mean, i can't remember a single bad memory here. >> chris: it was great. people you knew from last year were here. you'd roll out onto the street -- your parents didn't
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need to be with you. have a campfire on the beach at night. you can set off firecrackers. all the stuff they wouldn't let you do at home. >> anthony: the beach would look different. for a couple of days, the whole beach would be, like, this weird foamy surf, like, this giant, like, frothy bubbles. oh yeah, here, now, we're talking. thank you. >> chris: yeah, or there would be the jellyfish delivery sometimes. where there'd be, like, millions of them all over. >> anthony: infestation of jellyfish, right. i try to block that out. >> chris: that wonderful feeling of, you know, you were with other 10-year-olds alone at night, you know, on the beach. it was great. >> anthony: love clam strips. >> chris: these are great. >> anthony: this is awesome. so far, so great. i'm happy. properly battered pieces of fish and some good tartar sauce. what were your favorite activities? >> chris: building a fire on the beach. >> anthony: right, overturning the lifeguard stand. >> chris: yes, had to go. >> anthony: they were representatives of the man. >> chris: firecrackers on the beach. >> anthony: firecrackers on the beach. >> chris: i have some firecrackers in your car by the
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way. just saying. >> anthony: good. set them off in the elevator at the casino. >> chris: perfect, perfect. thank you. ♪ >> anthony: it was paradise. america's first dream vacation. the beach, as far as america was concerned, meaning bathing suits and swimming in the surf, was pretty much invented here. atlantic city. >> rich:, a working class, it was here for you. back then you dressed up to walk the boardwalk. it was capitalism at its purest and most assertive. it was a democratic dream designed from the beginning for everybody. flashy, utilitarian, upright, deeply unapologetically corrupt. the knife and fork inn was right there through it all. in many ways its story, a perfect reflection of changing times. established in 1912 as a so-called gentleman's dining and drinking club, the second floor originally had curtained alcoves and a separate ladies' lounge. private rooms on the third and fourth floor were set aside for games of chance and perhaps other activities.
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vicki gold levi's dad was the chief photographer for atlantic city from the 1930s to the 1960s. he saw it all, and by extension so did vicki. what was it like here as a kid? >> vicki: it was fantastic. walking down the boardwalk in the summer time was like walking in a carnival in midway. the cacophony of noises. >> anthony: there were still remnants of the '20s. >> vicki: yeah. >> anthony: that sensibility, that look, handlebar mustaches, victorian graphic design and illustration, a weird stuck in time feel was still very much in evidence, even in my time here in the early '60s. the boardwalk was over six miles of amusements, entertainments, parades, and pageants. a never-ending carnival. >> vicki: every place you went down the boardwalk was something else to see, and all the stores were like mom and pop stores. all very unique. >> anthony: yes. >> vicki: i love that. >> anthony: the world famous steel pier, amusements arcades, barkers, novelties, salt-water
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taffy. >> anthony: i love the joke shops. >> vicki: the joke shops! >> anthony: it was a wonderland of juvenile delinquency, 'cause, like, i'd go in and just buy dog, you know, plastic dog crap and plastic vomit and smoke powder and it was just something very sinister and forbidden and, you know, my parents indulged me when i was here. the menu has changed somewhat since the original. for me, a very tasty pretzel crusted swordfish over lump crabmeat. for vicki, pan seared scallops. my memories of atlantic city are largely built around the time before gambling. times were not good. i mean, the marlborough-blenheim, i remember it well, was largely empty, but it was a magnificent structure. >> vicki: i mean, you and i like the nostalgia and people who like coney island like it, but i don't know about the young people. >> anthony: beautiful buildings are beautiful buildings. you know? a beautiful view is a beautiful
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view forever. >> vicki: well, yes. >> anthony: there's no place with this kind of history and legitimacy. this place has deep romantic allure. >> vicki: i agree with you. i believe in the transition that's coming. i really, really do with all my heart. >> anthony: they're the kind of businesses that you talk about that used to be here. it's not a matter of, "gee it would be really great if that kind of thing happened again." it is inevitable that that will happen again and it's worth fixing. atlantic city could be chic, easily because the bones, the skeletons of this city are beautiful. >> vicki: i'm glad you feel that way. >> anthony: there is, even in very young people, particularly now, beautiful old things. a beautiful old restaurant with really great food, for instance. >> vicki: like we're eating in right now. >> anthony: yeah, is much more interesting that a glass box with good food. ♪ ♪ even though we just started dating ♪
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well you remember what happened last year. you can't bring a backup thanksgiving to my sister's house. it's not like we're going to walk in with it. we'll bring it in as we need it. ...phase it in. phase it in? yeah, phase it in. ♪
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>> anthony: the names of atlantic city's streets were imprinted on generations of americans who grew up playing monopoly. drive down ventnor avenue today, and you see history. the ebb and flow of america's hopes and dreams played out in the buildings and homes you see as you pass by. magnificent mansions mixed in with inexpensive two-family houses, cheap take out, the footprints of a lost world. the riviera of the northeast, still there if you look between. with jet travel in miami and an expanded highway system, things declined, as they do, but a few visionary geniuses presented a solution. a cure that would overnight make everybody well. make atlantic city shiny and new and prosperous again. men like donald trump. >> donald: i think it's going to be really very beneficial to everybody. we look forward to operating the taj mahal successfully for many years to come. >> anthony: vast new xanadus would be constructed and would-be kublai khan's rushed to atlantic city, eager to tap into
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what was assured to be a never-ending gusher of prosperity. casino gambling. when casino gambling was sold to the state of new jersey, to atlantic city, as the cure all, it was going to bring it back to its glory days. did that ever happen? >> brian: i mean, you drove around today, did you think this place is better than it was then? do you think, do you think it helped? >> anthony: no, i don't. new jersey native brian donahue is a reporter with 20 years experience focusing on south jersey. dock's oyster house, an establishment that survived prohibition, the great depression, two world wars, numerous declines and rebirths, still here, still great, a symbol of what atlantic city was and should be again, could be again. >> brian: to bring a city back after its decline is a really complicated, hard, process and they wanted easy answers and casino gambling was seen as an easy answer.
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>> anthony: yes, it sure sounded like a good idea. >> brian: they were going to put this plan in effect. 12 casinos here, bring everybody up from the top down. it hasn't worked. now you're left with just 12 casinos. ♪ >> anthony: and if you're looking for an example of lemming like lurch towards a shiny new cliff face from which to tumble, look no further than this $2.4 billion goat rodeo, the revel. it opened in 2012 and closed less than two years later -- the most expensive casino in new jersey history. >> brian: they just forged ahead with it. the hubris was incredible. >> anthony: what were they thinking? >> brian: short term money and at a time when all these other casinos were opening all over the entire east coast. >> anthony: which is nuts. it's economics' 101. >> anthony: casinos, of course, by design neglect the city's existing assets. salt air, a walk by the glorious north atlantic, the greatest of all earth's bodies of water, the classic attractions, the restaurants. >> brian: this is what it's going to take for atlantic city
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to come back. it's going to be on places like this. we celebrate the ghosts you know? >> anthony: some nice crab cakes at dock's. a big freaking lobster stuffed with crab imperial, pommes soufflé, those things are bad for business -- the business of taking your money. >> anthony: thank you so much. lovely, that'll work. that's good. yeah, oh, that's good. i don't want to sound like i'm down on atlantic city because i see this incredibly, almost ludicrously, hopeful place, so whatever left of it should be, to my mind, hung onto because they're going to come around. ♪ there's nothing funny about losing all your money. yet casinos are steady employers of that most hardworking species
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of entertainer. comedians >> rich: voss and bonnie mcfarlane are two of the hardest working people around, married to each other and new jersey. >> >> rich:: it's so much money to live here. i drove three exits on the jersey turnpike. it was $7. see, if you drive the whole new jersey turnpike, when you get to the end, you have to give them your car. >> bonnie: i'm going to tell you guys something that i don't generally tell people right away. i'm a vegan. i'm very passionate about it. it's all about eating a cruelty free lifestyle. no animal or animal byproduct of any kind. i do cheat a little. i eat veal. it's so good. it's so tender. how do they get it like that? >> anthony: i'm very sentimental about jersey italian, particularly spaghetti and meatballs. that's what i was going to go for. >> >> rich:: i've eaten here at least five to ten times and i've never had a bad meal, ever. >> anthony: oh, okay, i know what exactly. >> >> rich:: i wouldn't get the meatballs.
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[ laughter ] >> anthony: proud, long-time residents of new jersey? >> bonnie: no, i've lived here nine years, but only been proud maybe the last two. it took me a long time to sort of -- >> anthony: get up to speed? >> bonnie: yeah. >> anthony: born and bred? >> rich: yes my whole life. >> bonnie: he won't leave. i had to make peace with it. >> anthony: when's the first time you played atlantic city? >> rich: there was a club at the sands. many times i would get paid on thursday and i would lose it all and then i'd have to work for free. there's no worse feeling. >> anthony: oh i know that feeling. >> rich: it's a nightmare. you ever watch a couple in atlantic city? "okay dear hold this money, don't give it back to me no matter what i tell you. i don't care what i say." an hour later. "give me my god damn money. no i'm not fooling around. you're lucky i even brought you here, bitch. you better give me my money. you're the reason i'm losing. touching my arm when i'm shooting craps." >> anthony: is there a specifically jersey sense of humor that you notice? >> bonnie: yes. i love jersey audiences now so much because i've never one time ever said anything where people in the audience have gone, "aw." they never get offended. we all have our words, you know,
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that we don't like. the ones that affect us the most. i have my trigger words as a white woman. the word i don't like is no. i don't hear it that often, but when i do mm-mmm. >> rich: here's the deal with jersey, people land at newark and they drive up the turnpike. they don't turn off and go up into the nice -- >> anthony: they see the refineries. >> rich: they think that's new jersey. >> anthony: but see how sick is that i think it's beautiful? >> bonnie: more horses per capita than any other state. >> anthony: northern new jersey is the embroidery capital of the world. >> rich: yeah. >> bonnie: what? >> anthony: apparently. i don't know where that's happening. >> rich: my ex-wife worked for an embroidery company. >> bonnie: no. >> rich: i swear to god. i'll call her right now. >> anthony: this is the taste of my youth. for all of the marvelous things about new jersey, will people ever come across the bridge and the tunnel in the other direction? >> bonnie: no. >> anthony: no? okay. >> bonnie: i did not have to think about that. >> anthony: "let's go out to club in jersey." no. >> rich: no, but you know what? it's all relative. a 25-year-old guy or girl is going, "we're not going to jersey."
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a 60-year-old person is going, "i'm getting the [ bleep ] out of the city and i'm moving to jersey." >> bonnie: there's your answer. there's your answer. it's never going to be hip. >> rich: you know what? where does hipness stop? at what age? >> bonnie: hey, hipness is overrated. >> rich: yeah, it is overrated. you know what, i love living here. i love it. pine valley, the best golf course in the country. trump has a beautiful course here. >> anthony: now wait a minute, trump. i am not a fan. >> rich: who is? >> anthony: every minute that he walks the earth demands a certain complicity to not shout out, "will you look at that ridiculous looking [ bleep ] head." it's like if you have a disfigurement, that sort of tacit agreement that, "i'm just not going to bring it up." that's too much to ask of me in trump's case. i want to scream. >> rich: do you know why he puts his names on the buildings? so the banks know which ones to take back. okay? at least he's a humble guy. jesus. ♪ may 1 of '75...
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♪ >> anthony: there are few american cities, places where things have gone as disastrously wrong, as camden, new jersey. it's like the poster child for everything a city could screw up. once a manufacturing powerhouse, home to the new york ship building corporation, the campbell's soup company and rca
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victor records, a company town. about 80,000 people live here today. that's the same number of people who were employed during its heyday. nearly 40% of the city's high school students don't graduate. the entire police force replaced by the state. more than one third of city residents live below the poverty line. voter turnout, not good. if there's any place one could be forgiven for just throwing your hands up in the air and giving up it's here, but no. cities with serious problems need extraordinary people and tawanda jones is clearly an extraordinary person. >> tawanda: when you give, especially to someone who is really in need, you know, i feel, um, it makes me feel complete. >> anthony: her late grandfather, walter green jr., was a former military man, an employee of rca, and a bodyguard
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for the great boxer, jersey joe walcott. >> tawanda: he was just, like, the protector, you know? if you need anything you go to mister dynamite. that was his nickname. >> anthony: he was also a man who believed in being part of the community. when tawanda was 15, she was asked to lead a local drill team. unfortunately it soon lost its funding. walter purchased 80 uniforms and three drums to give them a start. >> woman: move! >> group: our deepest fear is not that we're angry. our deepest fear is how powerful beyond it. >> anthony: today, css, the camden sophisticated sisters drill team, which includes the distinguished brothers and taps, the almighty percussion sound, have over 320 participants. >> tawanda: good job, babies. good job. clap it up for yourself. clap it up. clap it up. >> anthony: we meet at neighborhood stalwart tony & ruth's steaks, still doing what
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they do. >> tawanda: it doesn't get any better than this. >> anthony: what was camden like back in the good old days? >> tawanda: oh my god. it was so different coming up when i was younger. i didn't have to worry about, you know, my life being threatened coming outside, you know? the neighborhood, everyone knew everybody. that sense of community was strong back then. >> anthony: you're talking about your childhood as if it was a real long time ago. it's not that long ago. i'm an old dude. >> tawanda: right. >> anthony: what the hell went wrong? >> tawanda: people can blame it on the politics, but i think that's just too easy. many have failed our children, but it's up to the parents to really start getting more involved in a kid's education. you know, know what your child is doing. >> anthony: so you're putting it principally on the parents. >> tawanda: absolutely. >> anthony: this is tasty. >> tawanda: this is delicious. >> anthony: so the conventional wisdom seems to be it's time to get out of camden. why are you still here? >> tawanda: because the need is
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in camden. if every decent person in camden leaves camden then we never have a chance. in order to be a part of the program you have to maintain a c average or better. >> anthony: right. >> tawanda: it's all about the academics. it's all about nurturing these kids. what's right? what's wrong? you know? the drill team does that. they have different sayings that they go by every day. "it's a start without a finish." "it is possible." >> group: it is never impossible. if i can believe that i can achieve what is possible is possible is possible. >> tawanda: and they believe this. you know, they say it so much until it's embedded. >> anthony: tawanda has helped css support itself with financial assistance from fellow parents and some fundraising, temporary help and donations from small businesses, but surprisingly for a group with a national profile, no lasting support from official organizations or national institutions public or private. yet she perseveres. a lot of your practices are done outdoors. >> tawanda: right. >> anthony: all weather type of a situation. >> tawanda: yes we've been under bridges, everything. over 28 years we've been outside, their safety is the most important to me, you know, but it's been a blessing and a curse because you'll have the corner boys come up to you and ask you, "ms. wawa are you having practice outside today?" and i'll say, "yeah." they'll be like, "today's not a good day," and i'm like, "okay, all right, thank you very much." >> anthony: that's nice.
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>> tawanda: right, you know, and i appreciate it. trust me. >> anthony: how do you keep these kids off the corner? >> tawanda: i'm quite aware that times are hard, but i just try to show them an alternative route. saying that there's so much more out there than this. some of them call me major pain, but it's all out of love, you know? they need that structure and discipline in life, period, to go to work, to go to school. >> anthony: they're doing it because it's fun. >> tawanda: right. >> anthony: but it's hard. >> tawanda: yeah. >> anthony: you're asking people to do a hard thing and they're doing it? >> tawanda: yeah. >> anthony: and i got to ask, i'm going to guess that in the years that you've been doing this, you had to have your heart broken many times. you had to have seen kids who you really believed in fall by the wayside and i'm guessing a lot. how do you go on? >> tawanda: we do have a lot of sad stories, but we have more good. our good outweighs the bad, you know? and i keep going just for that reason, you know? um, before i was a little hard on myself and, um, i used to
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actually think that i can save all the kids. i know that's not the case, you know? um, i just do the best that i can do and i just pray that the next kid doesn't, you know, fall by the wayside. >> anthony: how do you not become cynical? do you harden your heart or just -- >> tawanda: no, actually i have to replenish myself or i'm not going to be any good to them or my own family. these kids are like precious cargo to me. some have pretty tough lives. some of them have the responsibility of a 30-something year old. they're holding down their homes and they're only kids. no kid should have to go through that. >> anthony: 25 years down the road, what do you think camden is going to be like? >> tawanda: wow, i'm praying that it turns into the camden that i remember and i know that i'm helping our future leaders to become a part of that change. i'm very hopeful and there's no doubt in my mind that there is going to be a positive camden. no doubt. >> anthony: you're going to stay?
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>> tawanda: i'm not going anywhere. my pop pop didn't leave. i'm not leaving. >> anthony: yeah, i know. philadelphia is right over there. right across the ben franklin bridge, the center of the cheesesteak universe, but what if it isn't? ♪ they're better than that, they're bigger than that, and the best cheesesteak in the area might well come from new jersey. donkey's, opened by leon lucas 71 years ago. a heavyweight contender in the 1928 summer olympics in boxing, he was known during his time in the cavalry as "the donkey." >> robert: they said he had a punch like the kick of a mule. so somebody gave him the handle of "donkey." and he kept it. >> anthony: his son robert runs the joint now and this is what they do here. behold, the jersey cheesesteak. >> robert: pleasure to meet you. >> anthony: so this is the place.
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the best cheesesteak in south jersey unless i'm mistaken? >> robert: eh, in new jersey. >> anthony: new jersey, period? >> robert: yeah. >> anthony: is there a difference between jersey style and philadelphia style? >> robert: yeah, we do ours on a round poppy seed kaiser role. >> anthony: really? i'll have one of those. what's the way to go? i mean anything i need to know or just -- >> robert: no, regular, cheese and onions. >> anthony: beautiful thing. >> robert: i need one, paulie. >> anthony: it's round, it's got steak, spices, browned onions, real american cheese, such as it is, and a poppy seed roll. fantastic. thank you, sir. and it is sublime. relish, what do you think? >> robert: that's hot pepper, yeah. a little bit of that won't hurt. >> anthony: a little bit? oh man i drove a long way for this. thinking about it the whole way. >> robert: good. >> anthony: oh man this should be, like, a national landmark right away. this sandwich is unbelievably good. >> robert: thanks. >> anthony: it's really a thing
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of beauty. >> robert: that's good to hear. >> anthony: worth driving across the state in a blizzard for. >> robert: we get a lot of people from philly. >> anthony: no way, philly? >> robert: oh yeah, for sure. >> anthony: wow that's treason. do they, like, change the plates on their car or like wear a disguise, i mean -- >> robert: it's different. the poppy seeds help. >> anthony: yeah, i like this roll. it's awesome. just delicious. well, i think we've learned something here today. jersey cheesesteaks, i'm not saying they're better than philadelphia. yeah i am, actually. so there. this is great. >> robert: glad you enjoyed it. ? absolutely, it intelligently senses your movements and automatically adjusts to keep you both effortlessly comfortable. and snoring? no problem... and done. so you can really promise better sleep. not promise... prove. don't miss the final days to save 50% on the sleep number 360 limited edition smart bed. plus free premium delivery & setup when you add a base. ends cyber monday.
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♪ >> anthony: the forests and empty spaces of new jersey are vast and often empty of everything, but legend. you live here if you like a quieter life of not being messed with. 1.2 million acres of atlantic cedar, swampland, forests, it goes on and on seemingly, at times, forever. it's easy to get lost. >> paul: ♪ in the back water marshes where the cranberries grow ♪ >> anthony: when i was a kid as we passed through the pine barrens on the way to the shore we joked nervously about pineys, the strange, possibly inbred, tribes of people who actually lived out there.
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somewhere between the trees. that was what we believed anyway. paul evans pedersen, jeweler, musician, author, and proud piney. >> paul: ♪ these pine barren blues ♪ >> anthony: we meet at the disconcertingly friendly lucille's in warren grove for a delicious breakfast. >> paul: the legend of the jersey devil was mother leeds had twelve kids, foued herself pregnant with the thirteenth and said, "may this child be a devil." there's many legends that are told about it, but that legend says that when the jersey devil was born it morphed into this creature, flew up the chimney and was gone into the night. other legends say it killed everybody in the room. it's supposed to have the head of a horse, wings of a bat, hoofs, but you have people that say they've seen horns on it. it breathes fire. it's got a real long tail with a triangle on it. >> anthony: i mean, it sounds like my little pony with a fork tail. it doesn't sound frightening to me. >> paul: it's supposed to have big red eyes and some people say the head of a goat. >> anthony: it's a big po -- goat?
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goat's a little scarier. >> paul singing: ♪ the folks that live in the barrens they have a story they tell ♪ ♪ about that old leeds woman and her child from hell the night he's born, he took wings on and flew out into the night ♪ ♪ say you still hear him screaming when the conditions are right ♪ ♪ yeah i swear it's true these pine barren blues ♪ >> anthony: what's out there? who are pineys? do they roam the forest at night searching for souls to capture? >> paul: nah. pineys are people that live in the pine barrens. there was a time years ago that if you would've called somebody like that a piney, you'd have got shot.
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>> anthony: really? >> paul: but now people embrace it. people like to be thought of as living off the land. they have bumper stickers now, you know, "piney power." >> anthony: how do you make your living? >> paul: it's good to farm blueberries and cranberries. it's a lot of fishing, a lot of clamming, hopefully the oystering is coming back in the delaware bay. the bay supported a lot of jobs. >> anthony: the pine barrens have been settled for a long time. >> paul: a long time. some of the first people who came here were the glassmakers. saw this incredible sand that we have out here called sugar sand. pure white and it's perfect for making glass to the point that it didn't have to be washed or processed in any other way. there was hundreds of glassworks, they're just ruins now. thank you. >> anthony: thank you. so it's not like the rest of jersey, here? >> paul: oh no. and i hope it stays like it. it's like a jersey unto itself. out here, like you saw, kind of a long drive to get anywhere. >> anthony: that's good by the way, that's really good.
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>> paul: oh yeah, isn't it great? ♪ i am totally blind. and non-24 can throw my days and nights out of sync, keeping me from the things i love to do. talk to your doctor,
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♪ >> anthony: you want to talk mythic? epic? storied? anthemic?
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that sort of thing? welcome to asbury park. wellspring of american music of a certain kind. home to yes, the boss, and the jersey national anthem, "born to run." ♪ springsteen, bon jovi, little steven, but before them there was this man -- southside johnny who, with his asbury jukes, pretty much created the template for the jersey sound, a place, and really it could've only been this place, that changed music and lyrics forever. asbury park. it's had a reputation as being a happy hunting ground for musicians because what, a lot of bars? >> johnny: a lot of bars, it just was a tradition of bands playing here which is funny because the town was started, not to have alcohol and not that kind of music but after a while the pressure just was too much
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for entertainment for people to come here. it morphed into an r&b and rock and roll haven. >> anthony: most bars don't hire musicians, they don't hire bands, they're too much trouble. >> johnny: well this is the jersey shore though, i mean the jersey shore means people want entertainment. >> anthony: right. >> johnny: it's not just hard drinking people, there's people here on vacation in the summer. >> anthony: but atlantic city didn't have that reputation. >> johnny: well, we're not atlantic city. we're asbury park. >> anthony: as i always like to say, good is good forever, great music, great songs and a classic jersey sandwich, and at frank's they honor that jersey tradition of assertive layers of sliced ham, salami, pepperoni, provolone, with some tomato, onions, shredded lettuce. you got your roasted peppers in there and most important your oil and vinegar, which soaks into that soft, fresh baked bread and marries it all together into a soggy glorious delivery vehicle for deliciousness. there we go, thank you. >> waitress: italian sub, enjoy. >> anthony: aw, it's such a beautiful thing they shred the
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lettuce and everything. you used to come here as a kid? >> johnny: yes, my father, he would order like a pastrami sandwich. >> anthony: yeah. >> johnny: and i'd eat, like, a third of it and he'd he eat the rest of it. then my brother would eat eggs and bacon, so we had to order what he liked. he was a real trencherman, he could really eat. >> anthony: asbury park, like its close cousin atlantic city, with whom it had so much in common, suffered from much of the same problems. 14 years ago last time i came it was a shell of itself. dying, the beach is empty, a sad and forlorn place. unlike atlantic city though, asbury park fought to fix itself to become again the kind of place that anybody would want to live in. they didn't look for a magic bullet like casino gambling, and to a great extent they've succeeded by keeping alive what made asbury park special, they hung on to what was important. like this place where any overgrown child still wants to like this place where any overgrown child still wants to play.
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>> johnny: misspent youth, thank god. >> anthony: what? tilt? aw, no way. that's delicate. >> johnny: come on, hit it. hit baby, hit it. man these are tough. >> anthony: this is important for children. >> johnny: i think so. >> anthony: you know, your first exposure to racy images of women are all set in some sort of '20s fetishistic alternate universe. also it teaches you shame. >> johnny: and teaches you humility when you lose. >> anthony: and exactly the limits of how much you can break the rules before it tilts. >> johnny: you know i think they should have tilt for all sorts of things. >> anthony: i think so too. >> johnny: you step over the line in a bar talking to a young lady, tilt! >> anthony: tilt! >> johnny: and that way you know you got to start again, ah i
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tilted it already. i barely touched it. >> anthony: yeah, yeah. >> johnny: what are you talking about? >> anthony: that's what they all say. >> johnny: wait a minute. imma got ugatzo here, i got a nut. >> anthony: oh god. >> johnny: let me play!
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♪ >> anthony: as i like to say, good is good forever. the atlantic ocean will always be magnificent. looking at it always a humbling, even educational, experience. it teaches us that men come and go, but no matter how foolish or outsized their dreams, how badly they screw up, what we do here at the ocean's edge, the sea will outlast us, will always draw us to her edges. when necessary, it will crush us. i mean, look at the taj.
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it's completely oblivious to everything going on around it. yeah, and that has to got to be the most butt ugly building ever. >> chris: i noticed last night that some of the lights on the sign on the building are out. >> anthony: yeah it's like "trup." >> chris: something like that, yeah. >> anthony: or "tump." or "rump." i mean, it's sort of perfect actually. if you think of trump as sort of carnival barker, his operation is designed to attract rubes and empty, you've got sort of a perfect metaphor here. >> chris: yeah. >> anthony: i hate sweets, but i'm a sucker for nostalgia. you can't go back, i can't go back. hell, i wouldn't even if i could. i sure don't want to ever have to be a teenager again, but those tastes and smells of childhood, they work still.
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now, you're telling me you were not a big saltwater taffy fan? >> chris: i just remember it was hard to chew. >> anthony: you had braces, remember? so this was probably -- >> chris: i mean, it may have before that. i don't know. i can't remember if i had braces at that point. >> anthony: i don't like candy generally but these have a mystical hold on me. i mean even the color of the wrapper has this weird, you know, like, there should be weird music playing in the background -- molasses, i totally remember that. gettin' a bunch of those, i don't know why certain flavors really resonate. the peanut i know exactly what that tastes like. i remember the vanilla really powerfully. look, i'm not even a vanilla guy. i'm more of a chocolate guy. >> chris: i think i remember a pink one so i mean they must've had strawberry. >> anthony: wintergreen i remember. >> chris: licorice sounds good. >> anthony: ooh, peppermints, i'd keep these in the car. >> chris: it looks like cookies
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and cream. does it melt? >> anthony: whoa, it's a lot of taffy. >> chris: yeah. >> anthony: this stuff isn't fattening, by the way, so eat as much as you want. >> chris: is it gluten free? >> anthony: it's all-natural. >> chris: that's what i thought. >> anthony: atlantic city will never die. good is indeed good forever. and atlantic city will be great again. asbury park, camden, all of my home state. ♪ i'm convinced when the tide has come and washed all the greed heads away, it will once again be magic.
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i hope i'm there to see it. >> anthony: some people must live in great spaces, where the sky goes on forever. where everyone must bend to the land. where to hunt, to fish, to sleep under that big sky aren't activities, but a way of life. >> jim harrison: it was between here in those mountains that cheyenne and crow battle took place. but i like it. it's very peaceful. >> anthony: what was it like a hundred years ago? two hundred years ago? >> jim harrison: oh, not much different. this was never forested.


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