tv Gesprach - Talkshow Deutsche Welle September 13, 2020 2:30pm-3:01pm CEST
hand with it. just like that. so. we may go. over it got hold of my gloves and took off 3 of my knuckles. it was really tough shit. cried all night long. the doctor asked me what had happened. and the boss wanted to lie about it. relied said it was something else do you. buy a lot. and i said no it was the machine you go to see what excuse did he gave. he said that a plank had fallen on my fingers and that had cut my hand. so. we met jack on foodie just 2 months after they had left.
this is what they claim to have received is illegal present a violent beating for having dead to demand payment. according to them this was the work of alfonso geta along with one of his sons. are not with him and we'd agreed to meet here to collect our payment. but when we arrived so and one of his sons were here along with some others. there were 6 of them in total to be safest on. just on you they had iron bars naives and everything . tacked me and my friend to. one a little bit hit me over the head with an iron bar plus one of the federal. 40 and check reported the incident the very next day but alfonso get on and his son
have still not been called in for investigation. the 2 young men claim they were undeclared workers and were forced to work under grueling conditions in. a we were treated like animals we couldn't do anything we want even allowed to go to the toilet if we want. they told us to do it behind the machines we were working . and to be alice she worked from 5 in the morning until midday and then started again from 1 pm until 7 pm 13 hours a day. right to be sure to get a doesn't pay the senegalese workers who are employed under him or sometimes he doesn't pay them for 4 months at a time. since our meeting with chicken 40 of fence so ghana is said to have physically abused another one of his employees as far as we know he is
still not being prosecuted. a few weeks later we go back to tamil plant to see the books however this time we are not so well received. a phone so it's very. how are you. how do you say i told you not to film me. but i thought we agreed no we didn't agree anything i mean. one of his sons quickly intervenes. and then another comes along despite the frosty reception. we attempt to ask about 40 and check. on a problem. with is it all a little but is it all money. if you got somebody this is what you want to get to do that my lord is it only. the job to see to
it. produce more. than impulses was working conditions in the elegant world of luxury fashion week no 6. this. fortunately it's really has its labor inspectorate surely they must be on the case. the problem is that according to our information they don't tend to visit the tannery scenario of ever since ricardo speller was appointed at the end of 2014 there has been a dramatic decline in the number of inspections in the lead the district since we only have one pressing issue to address here on out how that. they had iron bars knives and everything. they attacked me and my friend.
because you know look i don't know anything about this case i repeat as far as we're concerned we don't know anything about it and you know institutionally in case of problems like these we have a duty inspector stuck was his own son was of course it does that mean that after today you aren't going to do anything about it unless one of these young men who are attacked travel 30 miles to come and tell you about it in person if they have to. kill. him ah but i'm convinced that the actions taken by this officer i mean even though there is always room for improvement. they are more than sufficient we're simply stop go fishing they're asking for shipping question. if everything's just fine around here apologies for the inconvenience. and what about the contract to passy are there no sanctions for them is brewed the model tannery
claiming to work for l v m h aware of the violent acts allegedly committed by subcontractor because remember zambian tamil plaque work hand in hand we go back to meet carlo groovey me to question him about the behavior of this subcontractor. do you still work with him up check no no well we're in the process of changing some things but our subcontractors. would come to visit because he told me that you are responsible for yourself contract is was it that you hold them accountable we move for israel yes we are aware of the situation we were everything we can of course. it could be perceived as your but also there are some things how can i say this. shouldn't you just have this right to gauge the well yes of course
we have to check that everything's going well. but it's difficult to know if the employees have been paid or not. and in any case this they can make complaints to the police. so the factory inspectors try. to the authorities area which is that it will. look to those at the end of the supply chain think about this situation we asked for an interview with the l v m h group but they refused we received through an e-mail stating the following. with regards to ken so we barely see any sign in our books of the company receiving a letter from design break tannery. yet when we are sampling they maintain that this is one of their most important partnerships.
kenzo most definitely uses our leather and their products. in recent years we have made 567 any will shipments directly to kenzo. we have a longstanding working relationship. and it's still ongoing yes. for at least the past 3 years people have been aware of the sorts of problems taking place in italian tanneries short term contracts accidents that work ever since one man brought these issues to light. he lives in the tuscan countryside an hour's drive away from santa croce his name is francesco. he is the president of an italian n.g.o.s fighting for fair labor conditions for some of the poorest workers and has written a report called a tough story of land. this report was authorized and funded by the european
commission. its publication will no doubt provoke the wrath of many let the manufacturers. they started to say that what we wrote was untrue that there were i don't know how many errors in the end they discredited our report very. part. of what they said it was obviously written by incompetent people who don't know anything about the sector. they're talking rubbish the stupidity of the. group of manufacture is the european commission to call in the authors of the report in spring 20162 meetings were organized in brussels. with one man at the helm gustavo gonzalez representing chord tones the european level lobby. most of all there was the guy
from photons who spoke on behalf of the tenors association. for he said this report must be taken out of circulation they think for good. you know what was the european commission's role the strange thing was that the european commission didn't say ok ok let's see whose facts are really correct. now maybe they just took the tanners association side of. a report but by brussels that they themselves later rejected the european commission one over by let the lobbyist it seems like this story is well worth a trip to belgium despite numerous e-mail exchanges could turn says secretary general gustavo gonzalez refused to meet with us so we decided to pay him a surprise visit. hello mr gonzales yes was it i wanted to ask you some questions because we're just shooting in santa
croce just coming this must be careful search gently but no violence please sir. no violence you know all seriousness it will get on the back you know but i'm not being violent they're doing what you knocked over my cameraman and that's why i'm saying that you almost pushed me over. to no that's not true what we've just come back from filming in subsequent to that if you don't know you and we've witnessed large numbers of people working overtime undeclared workers classifieds that haven't been reported for you i know you're aware of this report tough story of another if you don't do is say it was published in 2016 and it highlights some of the unforeseen actresses in certain town reason around santa croce yet think it's states that twice as many immigrants have been victims of accidents at work then italian workers say it's time i think this is acceptable. because it 1st of all the top story of leather report was discredited because it was spreading false information big news. i know it was based on occupational medicine statistics over
a 5 year period one of the or occupational medicine statistics over 5 years i can assure you that's not the case since it came as yes it is the case mr gonzales excuse me but according to these figures you seem to be basing your argument on something that's been discredited it was made up of fake news. does not always but according to our information it has not been discredited as you say it was actually you who tried to cover up this report could excuse me yes it was you who tried to cover it up no no all we did was reveal the truth behind the lies that were presented in the report. the former was because so is this statement a lie to you that during a 5 year period according to occupational medicine statistics why since many immigrant workers were victims of occupational accidents then italian workers do you deny these statistics i don't think they are correct. but you don't think they're correctable is no no because they aren't real statistics. so you dispute
the statistics but it was you yes or no demanded that the commission. removed this report from the internet yes because it is false as to him also it is false that twice as many immigrant workers are victims of occupational accidents than italian workers so we would need to verify that you don't know no no no you're elaborating the figures here i need to check if. this or tell me then what part of the report is false and there was a whole list of points presented to the commission. such as i don't remember all the individual points that were made to prove the report was false. you know there must be one or 2 false things that you remember. madam i'm getting old. that's all goodbye. when it comes to big fashion houses and their leather getting on says is decidedly difficult.
but what about fur the other iconic luxury material. china is the world's top producer if you really want to see what this industry looks like you need to go to dying. in the vast expanse of china dining is a very small town home 210-0000 residents and 10000 businesses only to find. there are shopping malls full of coats. and slippers. there's the mink faucheux room and most importantly we have the city's emblem the folks how ironic. you can also go to the market 3 times among. tens of thousands of animal skins all different
shapes and sizes. i mean you hold that's right coonskin if you look at ridiculously low prices you look at your average you look at the 1st one here is 25 you one's a piece you are not it's the best in the market you won't find any better thing the only option. for $25.00 yuans that's just over $3.00 per animal skin. in china $70000000.00 animals are killed for their fur each year and animal welfare isn't the country's top priority. she works the peta the world famous and geo best known for its crackdowns on for. half that that. i am this young
activist is at the forefront of the fight against fur in china a country which is now peaches top priority. going to have a life altering to say so it's not a most are not protected phylicia there are no laws to control farming livestock and trace ship finds a. home of course there are other organizations like ours fighting against animal suffering that they are. because there's no law we don't have an official spokesperson there military these animals don't have any protection or rights from when they're farmed right up until when they're i don't isolate miracle . can you describe hygiene there i don't know if i'm clear with that. that the animals urinate and defecate in their cages hides how some may develop
skin diseases because they're cooped up inside when you just have or some of them go crazy. the point where they attack each other as i was asked to we've seen bite marks on their skin from other animals cones in the trunk or on the shipping it boil as soon as you enter these farms you are hit by a foul smell dinging they go fine is i flick now can i just challenge and the way that you know just how and nobody cleans the animals. but which companies do these farms what food do major european brands use them. in this luxury fashion model in beijing this plenty of choice of fur. cuffs scarves all these strange looking fluff balls to be clipped on to bags. we had to mix mara and i talian brand new 2600 stalls worldwide.
we even try on this lovely little jacket. to show what's this coat made of our rubbish for a good where was it made. in italy. no actually was made in china but with italian for. italian fur that's the 1st version we are told next the store manager comes over. to it that night out so far our 1st comes from a certified organization in denmark suffers. all of their fur is a good quality as it's a certified organization each fur has to be checked. and that's why their fur is so good i know what it's like that we always work with them morning to open up. italian fur or rather danish fur or maybe we're not so sure anymore.
i am. after leaving the mall we decide to go straight to the source we email max morrow's customer service pretending to be a client and ask them directly this was their response we would like to inform you that our company is firmly committed to a process of continuous growth and improvement of our products regardless of where they are manufactured furthermore with regards to our fur we can confirm that we only source from certified suppliers. the answer is not very clear to move forward with our investigation we have no choice but to take a new approach. we head back to dying city following the trial of the max mara rabbit fur jacket. but this time we are posing as fashion designers we've even created
a portfolio. from now on we will be filming discreetly sometimes with a hidden camera and. we will go around factories making connections talking sketches and the ordering process but we can't seem to find anyone working for max mara. then one morning across this courtyard we stumble upon a clothing manufacturer bingo we finally found the rabbit fur jackets of this luxury italian brand. we're one of the top marks mara suppliers in china. just to work with them often we've worked with them for years. the boss is extremely proud of his max mara connections we'll call him mr lee so our max mara jacket is not made of it talian or danish fur it is from china is the chinese
rabbit yes from shandong. we finally have our eyes. but this is just the beginning we've still not found the exact breeding farms. and we are yet to convince the boss to introduces to his supplier his we are not off to a good start. take us and we might far doesn't all come from the same farm and it's not worth going to see the farms trust me mark mark doesn't go and visit suppliers and just do it you can't you can inspect the fur right here and others not quite going all the way to the farms were there you know the breeding conditions are bad you're only going to see dirty animals so. we don't purchase the fur directly from the farm or minsan that we only buy ready to and for. whom mr leoni knows of one tannery where he still sees his fur off to 2 hours of negotiating he finally gives us the go ahead. hello fine you can go visit the white see tannery
the manager will welcome you there. is 250 kilometers north of dying. is home to the country's lunges tannery. at the entrance pose of rakuten 1st drawing in the sun. and further on thousands of rabbit skins. how many 1st do you produce one day. in this part of the factory we produce 10000 furs a day but during peak times we can do up 230000 or more. 3000 employees work in this factory immersed in the noisy aging stench of rotting carcass is. the animal skins arriving from all over the country and sometimes even from northern europe. these workers and above all
their salary one. the secrets behind our beloved maxim are a jacket our interpreter talks discreetly to one of the employees. berens 20 fend for animal skin. and he produces 1000 a day. so he earns about 200 u ones a day. $200.00 chinese one barely $30.00 a day not even minimum wage in china let's go back to the rapids at the back of the factory we find the 1st set aside from mr nick. is this what you choose your fare for the next mark products yes are you some of it from ox mara and i resell the rest. how many 1st do you buy a year from x. mara 50000 mr lee finally tells his where he gets his fur from.
to someone who did my trademark and gets it for me you can call it art from lin in the city. you must really like the fur for many years it's very soft. this is mr lee's trade much and he is the one who buys the fur for max mara in the movie remote provinces. so we could only get for a menu for mr lee. if we want to visit the rabbit breeding farms it is him we have to convince. bosses to you think we could come with you to need your care and. finally after much discussion we have found out take it to. this region is one of the main rabbit supply zones breeding farms as far as the eye can see.
thanks to mr lee's connections we go into one of them. this farm houses approximately 10000 animals multiple rabbits are often crammed together into one tiny cage. with never afraid there's no more room once i've sold a few rolls i'll be able to have one rabbit ok i don't remember the year. there are no hygiene mills for farmers. on another farm we find the same breeding conditions animal droppings a left to polar around the cages. some of the rabbits show signs of breathing problems. others have
behavioral issues. tumours. deformities for those rabbits destined for luxury life couldn't get much worse. we are far far away from max morrow's elliptical phrase we can confirm that we only source from certified supplies. but all this is nothing compared to the death of the animals thanks to our firm merchant we are allowed to enter the slaughter house. that noise you can hear is the sound of rabbit screeching. their legs are often broken as they are hung upside down at the start of the slaughtering process next they are slaughtered. less than one minute later they are skinned.
the room these are the skins used in mr lee's factory this is the file that ends up covering amongst other items max mara jacket . is this luxury brand aware of the conditions in which these rabbits of forced to live and die the same rabbits used to make their fur coats we tried to get an interview with max mara but they refused and. as our investigation comes to an end we no longer see the world of luxury in quite the same way. the tanneries of tuscany the breeding farms and slaughterhouses of china after all of this we are left with one question what if this beautiful image of luxury has been nothing but a dream. always
also notice of what i used to need to keep the day you got on the road for over a wrench and home the 4th time coming from the whole of the most recent at the columbus zoo that missed the boat on the ballets at the last dragon this word called the hard truth. how does a virus spread. why do we panic and when we'll all be. just 3 of the topics covered and a weekly radio show is called spectrum if you would like any information on the coronavirus or any other science topic you should really check out our podcast so you can get it wherever you go your podcast you can also find us and dot com for science. touch.
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