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tv   Made in Germany  Deutsche Welle  May 5, 2022 4:30am-5:01am CEST

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about here is not only disorganized violence, it's not only terrorism. it's apologies. sounded over 150 years ago. it's repeatedly died out, but always been resurrected. the ku klux klan starts may 11th on d. w. ah ah, ah. much out the world now wants to wash its hands of russian oil. as the word ukraine drags on european countries are readying to ban imports of the fuel. we'll take a look how russia's economy is faring under this barrage of sanctions. also in this edition of made in germany, the new silk road is russia's war,
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destroying what china built. and new york is the fashion industry ready to give full transparency on its suppliers and bangladesh. how's the textile industry changed since the deadly ran a plaza accident and 2013? i'm chelsea delaney. welcome to the show. now let's start with the russian word, juice, or an english friendship. that's the name of the oil pipeline running from russia to europe. but the relationship between the e u and russia has unraveled since students forces invaded ukraine. the latest move to sever ties is the plan to ban russian oil imports. that would just deprive moscow of a key source of revenue and ads, the economic gloom cast over russia's economy. as it's cut off from the west. marian hotel reports pigeons whoa test is supposed to shrink under the current sanctions. but there is a problem. the i'm on revenues are higher than they've been for ages in that's
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because of the rise in oil and gas prices. but if you take a closer look, you will see not o him is equal as immune ceases with russian oil is a political hot potato right? now on the skip this on demand for oil from other sources is growing rapidly because people are worried about getting burned by russian oil smith up and put a dish. many countries want to drop prussian oil. germany plans to stop in ports by the end of the year. the e u is negotiating for that too. and the u. s. as pulling out as western democracies withdrawal as bullies. what does that mean for russia? come to just sell its oil to china. guns and inky in huntsville tool. sons is crushes entire energy infrastructure was built around 5 decades ago in the soviet era for its main markets in europe. the debit dingle dusty visa vision and
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aggie marked and saw the entire network as land the pipelines the are mostly directed. wes, it as in egg units, is stella and pipelines, tendency to novice no escalate? of course, there are pipelines, the transport, oil and gas to asian markets like the eastern siberia, pacific ocean pipeline, east siberia, pacific ocean pipeline, warned it as well. demons and fast us di, comments, but the capacity of the eastern infrastructure is enough to replace what will be lost in exports to europe dropped off entirely in the exporter and in, in, not a whole part from the big patient. transporting oil by ship is also problematic because shipbuilders and insurance companies don't want tallies with putin either on the journey is longer and more expensive because really big tank is. com, passed through the suez canal. but tank as can be used to dodge sanctions. mendez said, see it's guns, are what you see quite often are tanker is leaving russia with russian oil,
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which appears in the statistics as russia exporting oil to steve told us, oh, it's wilson export here to my son already. but what often happens is that these tankers just sail around the world, waiting for orders and o m martin, or they might ship the oil out on to the ocean, but then transfer it to another ship is of design of the emitter way of passing under the sanctions radar or sailing under it. i was even selling oil directly from ship to ship in international waters. is a ploy to disguise the origin of the oil and to evade sanctioned russia's economy has suffered sanctions before. after the annexation of crimea in 2014. this time g, d, p could fall by 10 percent that could have wind repercussions. the biggest problem is the lack of impose miss alice smith. this is not everything that
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comes in from western countries can and will be replaced by china and even china doesn't produce everything that europe in the u. s. produce the deal was i understood. that means the russian economy will face significance shortages spare parts for airplanes, for example, and technology for the oil industry. digital infrastructure is also affected. russian needs of foreign qana to expand its 5 g network. could that be china? does this yet? so does the huawei isn't signing any new contractors kind? it's unclear whether huawei will withdraw completely or just reduce its activities . and what is the 1st a, c, a r. so at the moment these activities are sort of on hold and russia activity in and else ice could eat and that will cause massive delays to the 5 g roll out c put so many young russians no longer see prospects for themselves. the well educated,
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in particular on packing their bags, it's estimated that $50000.00 i t experts have already left the country on the poconos, it is from on this forecast from a russian association says that in april along another 100000 i t experts will leave on for us and ran the brain missile called brain drain is massive, and it's not just in the i t sector and i t long. so in the long term, the russian economy will take a serious hit lot. putin's won't. chest still appears well stocked full now. now the war in ukraine has also caused enormous disruptions to global commerce, including the oldest trade route and the world the silk road. first, a quick look back at history, back in a 2nd century b. c. up until the middle ages, the silk road was the most important, transferred route, spanning continent connecting china to europe, silk, spices, firs and porcelain,
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were transported in caravans on the 6400 kilometer root. the journey took 2 years that he likes to market and bu, cora, both in modern day was becca. stan flourished along the silk road, but eventually trading shifted towards the seas because shipping goods across water was more efficient. but about a decade ago, china announced plans to revive the ancient silk road trade route with its landmark bell and road infrastructure initiative. our next report looks at how russia's invasion of ukraine is threatening china's ambitious new silk road. at the moment cargo ships are having to make long detours. russian ports are being shunned as our russian airports. western cargo planes are having to cover much longer stretches to avoid russian airspace here. things can still be transported directly related to so growth is still in operation. the route between europe's
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biggest inland port induce book and china's economic centers is part of china as belt and road initiative. the new silk road. it's 11000 kilometer rail root carries some 200000 containers annually and partially crosses through russian territory for china and the e u. it's an important project and for that reason has been largely spared from sanctions. you also, siobhan, is in law by russian railroads have been put under sanctions to the extent that no one in europe can buy or trade russian state owned rail bonds. will doubtless, on what using russian rail or fulfilling existing transport contracts is not prohibited or under sanctions. of in the commission has made it clear that there were land root between china in europe is also in european interests. of course that could change at any time. here, everything has already changed the ukrainian port of mar, you, paul, has been completely destroyed before the war. it was an important export hub.
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ukraine originally had 3 big ports. the crimean city of sylvester boy was annexed in 2014 by russia. mar, you poor has been devastated in the latest invasion. and odessa is under russian bombardment. the ports are vital for transporting grain. before the invasion. ukraine supplied food for 400000000 people. 10 times the number of its own population production has dropped because of the warm and exporting grain has become more difficult. what was once transported by ship now has to be moved by rail. the problem there obviously is finding enough box cars or great knowledge for both haulage ability to take the the volumes that used to go out. i share the cost on at least double that to the silk road. the project hasn't been derailed yet,
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but it's future is uncertain. it runs through russia, which is alarming client shipments are down like 30 percent, skipped out. it also has a lot of hesitancy at the moment about transporting goods, 10000 kilometers to putin's empire. again, butts, county office, that's understandable if the issue is not so much with the boycott. it's more about avoiding contact with russia right now. the avoiding transit through the country. my middle, the logistics companies are having to find alternatives. do sport is currently planning to switch to what's known as the middle corridor. so i my law, we need to unload twice as far from near to cross the black sea. and the caspian sea is the free trial runs, are now up and running under real conditions. but one problem
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cannot be solved. the route takes longer. when's life other is in that's like, you know, using the northern route. we're looking at $13.00 to $18.00 days to reach china, depending on the exact destination. easier to july, the southern bypass will take longer term to remain competitive. we're aiming for $25.00 to $30.00 days are also compared to see freight, which takes 8 weeks. that's still very fast, i'd like to leave off with walton m m o there smith, whether in the cargo shipping air or trains winters, the war is presenting logistics companies with challenges. ultimately, it's consumers worldwide, who will pay now, staying with supply chains over and $1.00 of the world fashioned capital's new york city itself, retailers are preparing to reveal their supply chains. the big apple fashion industry has long been criticized for exploiting low wage workers abroad. and for
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not taking its environmental impacts seriously. a new law in new york will give shoppers information on how their clothes remade. but will that be enough to persuade them to change their buying habits? ah, these seamstresses work in one of the most expensive cities in the world. here in new york city, they're making uniforms for us soldiers and fashion for international brands. we believe in making in the usa, although some people may think that we're a little crazy fur fur pushing that it's i think, part of our dna, gabriela ferrara, is c o of ferrara, manufacturing. she inherited the textile company from her parents. they founded it here in the garment district in the heart of manhattan, 35 years ago. fast fashion is all about manufacturing and selling as cheaply as
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possible, and with no regard for the environment or work or welfare. but that's not gabrielle ferrara's approach. she believes the global fashion industry needs to be more aware of its environmental and social impacted having a global supply chain is really important. ah, having global standards is also equally as important. and so what we kind of forgot to do when we shifted all the labor over overseas is make sure that we maintained our qualities of how business is operate. and make sure that we're baking in that cost of operating at that appropriate level into the cost of the good sold. not, i'm hiding it and potentially creating dangerous situations for workers because they're not the factories aren't getting paid enough. gabrielle ferraro, supports the fashioned sustainability and social accountability act, a ground breaking new bill in new york that aims to force the fashion industry to
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be more responsible. the idea is that market forces will also proven incentive to new york is one of the world's main fashion markets. before the pandemic, the sectors revenue totaled some $100000000000.00 a year. under the bill, fashion companies will have to disclose their supply chains and their social and environmental impact. if they don't comply with these transparency standards, they face fines of up to 2 percent of their global revenue. the law will also apply to all the major fashion brands and online retailers. many of the manufacturers and countries like bangladesh, where labor costs are low, and we're environmental, protections, and work or welfare are often disregarded. calona actor campaigns for the rights of textile workers in bangladesh. a enormous thing because they enjoy to be so high. when you talk about the business stake been done,
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most was the bigger slice of the so what do i, you know, workers and ending up with is in year one of them working in upsets me. hello e ross at a few says more with their closing that can issue a worker's voluntary efforts to improve ethical standards and the fashion industry have proved an effective component after is pinning her hopes on the new legislation. oh edy, what tell me old law in one only one voice out of this law that is a provision for financial housing. i'm guessing maybe y'all will make this brass. i fully accountable and if they are not meet the close is they will be placed under this low back in new york city. everything and designer maria cornejo studio has been made sustainably when corny,
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who started out 25 years ago. it was hard to source sustainable fabric, but times have changed. as more commercial companies are becoming more aware of sustainability that the fabric people that type sales people are making more of an effort to supply. and to come up with solutions for recycle fabrics and eco fab regularly maria corny house customers can afford sustainable fashion higher price tag. few items here cost less than $450.00. but courtney ho, thanks cheaper stores also need to bring about a change of thinking, i think is the motto. little by little shifting the perspective i'm thinking okay, well maybe i'm not going to buy 6 present jays this year, but i'm just going to buy one that i really love on is going to be eco. and people realizing that it's only to own that largely to be the right things. new york's
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fashion bill requires companies to disclose supply chain and manufacturing information, but will ultimately leave it up to consumers to decide with their wallets. and that won't be enough, says i assure barren blot she works for re make an initiative that aims to and harmful practices in the fashion industry. and so i really do think government has to do its job. you know, so this idea that we put this data out in the public domain and market forces especially and customers. are you the purchasing power to course? correct, i think is a fallacy. you know, what we need is regulation that level the playing field. so that industry gone profit from modern day slavery from negative externalities when it comes to the climate from human rights abuses. gabrielle ferrara also wants to see the fashion industry smarten of its act. she hopes the new bill in new york will help usher in a new era. there's a huge opportunity now for integrating automation and new technology and
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robots. what this does is it allows you to have operators trained on using that equipment, but are able to produce and keep their wage at a living wage level. i think that's where the industry is going, where in a lot of industries they're starting to onshore with the advancements in automation, gabrielle ferrara, is busy expanding her production capacities in new york. alongside this, her company is developing new technologies designed to ensure it remains sustainable into the future. here in germany, most of the clothing on people's backs to day was made in asia. 7.8000000000 euros worth was imported from china alone and 2021. just behind is the much smaller nation bangladesh. with 6500000000 narrows all it by turkey. and india. 9 years ago, a textile factory collapsed and the bang with as she capital dhaka. the devastating
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accident shown a spotlight on the terrible conditions of garment workers. our next report looks at whether things have changed since the tragedy. ah, more than a 1000, were killed and thousands injured. when the rana plaza textiles factory collapsed in bangladesh is capital deca. 9 years ago, many died in the rebel waiting for rescue. survivors struggles to obtain financial support. oh, i won't compensation from the government. i grew up with up. none of the effective was have been compensated properly, but they gave us hardly anything either. but what happens all the aid money that came from abroad? we need that money. remember, the country was in deep shock, international condolences poured in, along with the promise of change in bangladesh working conditions. nearly a decade later, we visit 2 of the country's largest textile companies. we want to find out if
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anything has changed in the sector in the wake of ron plaza, just outside deca in ghazi, poor, the bix, him co company has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and it says di works. it's almost doubled . company production. maxime co has 40000 employees, though most of the work is done automatically. every one from seamstresses to c e. o can remember the country's terrible accident records run up. love was one audible memory which sold over up and live bung. lavish, learn from there and change. the answer is yes, the allah issue. factories who from the point of view of civil safety, electrical safety, fire safety,
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are the safest and lower and the workers were allowed to mask them. the company is popular. no one here has to worry about work safety and wages are above average problem they're asked is, are gone. aqua or working conditions have improved a lot compared to the situation a few years back. i can do about them by wrap up there for doctor, we got it with my current salary, i'm living a very decent life by the grace of the almighty. hope allotted. 30 kilometers away the me. taylor company makes fabrics for global export. their textiles are made as precursor products for the wider industry, colored and cut to be sold in roles. the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards because they know the world's eyes are on them. you cannot say yes ma'am. this is like as around our pleasure. it is it,
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it has gone actually. so, so far heard about going on. it is really good. i'm in government also putting their her hand and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things are going on ah, for the, for the text as sectors are 2 for the improvement since the run of plans, the disaster bangladesh has become something of a poster child for all of asia. the head of the country's largest union has been fighting for worker's rights for decades. he says the large companies have improved, the smaller ones are lagging behind, they are this yawn for the whole novelty there some 15 to 20000 small scale garment factories the which supply the demands of the local markets. there is a will novelty. garbage has a little denise. 15 to 20000 factories. woodward,
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play safety and working environment for the workers are still in a very bad date. law. me will nickleby. they swore length of government in dusty. did the local, i think it's time we upgrade the workplace safety situation with at least 15220000 factories and one the needs of the crowd can i will. london market is on the they're focused entirely on local markets. a new one from one low casala laura worth to bangladesh is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. and also the world's top textile producer. missile says light water is scarce and often polluted, dies and waist aren't supposed to be seeping into the waterways. even if the reality in dachau tells another story. but the message seems to have been heard by management. may taylor does its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant . that's more than the law demands. so the fashion industry produces 20
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percent of the west globally. so can you imagine how begley we are the 15th for the water pollution? some intellect, axtell is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kind of mission. notice a fully automated, so that on jumps on a water is very less than others. even the large operators aren't making these improvements voluntarily in either health and safety wages, all the environment. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers, and unions called the bangladesh, a court to impose them every by love if you factory who wants to survive and has survived, or has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industry moves forward and those who have not been willing to change,
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re lord, have i done have while out of business orderly will out of business for once in bangladesh. both management and unions know that only those companies which improve their standards will survive over the long term. if they want to sell textiles internationally. they say that quite certain, another random plaza is no longer likely and we can all do something to next time you're shopping. be sure to check the labels for more than just the price. take a look at where and how those genes were produced and who made them. that was all for this addition of made. you shall see delaney from all of the team here in berlin. thanks for watching. with
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. ah ah with
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ah ah ah ah, into the conflict with sebastian more than 2 months into the war in ukraine on both sides and taking heavy losses. my guess this week is last year about the line go for leticia and human rights lawyer who joins me from here. what makes her so sure, mister putin wouldn't press his nuclear conflict zone in 30 minutes on d. w,
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abortion in europe. gold concealed prohibited the right of a woman to determine her own pregnancy, generations for trouble. but now it's in more danger than ever in short, conservative governments create threatening situations for women, medical professionals and institutions do 75 minutes on d w. it's not a question of whether the next crisis will come, but only when and how the media will deal with it. how can we stay focused on what is important? shaping tomorrow now, exploring opportunities for media professionals in times of crisis. the global media for june 2020 to get your again now not just
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another day with so much is happening all at once. we take time to understand this is the day in depth look at current news. events analyzed quite experts and critical thinkers. not just another new show, this is the weekdays on d w with this issue. when i arrived here, i slept with 6 people in a room. 9th in it was harsh. fair. i even got white hair is learning the gym and language head. yeah. a lot. this kids, me and craig, but trinity to interact with, you want to know their story for migrant verified and reliable information for migrant.
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ah ah, this is the w news live from berlin. rockers hit your cranes, a 2nd city car came as rushes. it's an offensive drags on security cameras captured the destruction of an amusement park in the city to rush and victory. there is far from certain ukrainian troops, se they've taken back several villages in the area. also coming up for tied us general david, the try as tallahassee w that brushes i a massive mobilization. it could be timed for monday's victory day signaling. what the full.

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