GARMENT DRAFTING PATTERN - United States Patent 600,050

(No Model.)

No.' 600,050.

2 Sheets— Sheet 1.

M. TUCEK.

GARMENT DRAFTING PATTERN.

Patented Mar. 1, 1898.

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INVEMJ3R

by yw«%^>

ATTORNEYS.

The norris peters co. pmoto-litho.. Washington d, c.

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(No Model.)

No. 600,050.

2 Sheets— Sheet 2.

M. TUCEK.

GARMENT DRAFTING PATTERN.

Patented Mar. 1, 1898.

3S 3S JO £7 SS

ATTORNEYS.

THE MORRIS PETERS CO.. PHOTO-LITHO., WASHIVGTON. D. C

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United States Patent Office.

MA.RIE- TUCEK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.
GARMENT-DRAFTING PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 600,050, dated March 1, 1898.

Application filed March 24=, 1897. Serial ffo. 629,045. (Ho model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Marie Tucek, of the
city, county, and State of New York, have in-
vented a new and Improved Garment-Draf t-
5 ing Pattern, of which the following is a full,
clear, and exact description.

The object of the invention is to provide a
new and improved garment-drafting pattern
more especially designed for conveniently,

io quickly, and accurately drafting the outlines
for ladies' seamless waists and skirts having
but a single seam in the body.

The invention consists principally of a waist-
pattern provided with an angular base, a

15 waist-arm held adjustably thereon and piv-
otally connected with a slide held adjustably
on the base, and a front arm held adjustably
on the said slide, an arm-scye having two ad-
justable members, of which one is adjustable

20 on the said slide and is connected by links
with the said front arm, the other scye mem-
ber being connected with the shoulder-meas-
uring device connected with the back arm
held adjustably on the base.

25 The invention also consists of certain parts

and details and combinations of the same, as

will be fully described hereinafter and then

pointed out in the claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying

30 drawings, forming a part of this specification,
in which similar characters of reference indi-
cate corresponding-parts in all the figures.

Figure 1 is a plan view of the pattern for
the waist; Eig. 2 is a similar view of the pat-

SS tern for the skirt. Eig- 3 is a like view of the
pattern for the sleeve. Eig. 4 is an enlarged
plan view of part of the same. Fig. 5 is a
transverse section of the same on the line 5 5
of Eig. 4, and Fig. 6 is a plan view of -the blanks

40 for the waist and skirt cut according to the
pattern.

The improved garment-drafting pattern is
provided with a pattern for drafting ladies'
waists, and this pattern, as shown in Fig. 1,

45 is provided with an angular base A, formed
with two parallel slots A' and A 3 and with
graduations in centimeters along the edges
of the said slots, the graduations indicating
the size of the lady's waist, and a third slot

50 A 8 is likewise formed on the base A at an an-
gle to the parallel slots A 3 A'. In the slot A 7
is held adjustably a clamping-screw B, en-

gaging a lug C on the curved waist-arm C,
on the outer edge of which is drawn the out-
line for the waist proper. The free end of the 55
arm C is pivotally connected at C 3 with a slide

D, preferably made U-shaped, with the two
side members D' D 3 extending outwardly and
with the member D 3 reaching over the base A.
The outer member D'is provided with a grad- 60
uation D 3 in centimeters and indicating the
front measurement from the neck to the waist.
On this member D' is held a clamping-screw

E, extending through a slot E', formed in the
front arm E and held slidably on the member 65
D' to indicate at its lower- edge on the grad-
uation D' s the size of the lady's waist. The
parallel movement of this arm F is obtained
on the member D f by a pin E', held on the
outer end of the member T>' and engaging the 70
slot F'. The extreme outer end of the arm F

is formed with a curved offset E 2 for drafting
the front portion of the neck, and the outer
end of this offset is pivotally connected with
a link H, having a slot II', engaged by a 75
clampings-screw H 3 and by a fixed pin I-P, both
held on a link H 4 , pivotally connected with
the member V of the scye - pattern I. The
member I' is provided with a slot I 2 , engaged
with a clamping-screw I 3 , also engaging a slot 80
I 4 in the other member I 5 of the said pattern
I. An arm I 6 extends rigidly from the scye
member I' and is provided with a slot I 7 , en-
gaged by a clamping-screw J, held adjustably
in the slot A 3 , previously mentioned, and pro- 85
vided with a guiding-sleeve J', held on the
outer end of the member D 3 of the slide D.
The member D 3 is provided at its end with a
pin D 4 , engaging the angular slot A 3 in the
base, so that when the slide is shifted side- 90
wise the member D 3 moves laterally, owing
to the pin D 4 traveling in the slot A 3 .

The member I 6 is provided with graduation
corresponding to the graduation D 3 and set at ^-
the clamping-screw J to the same number as 95^
that indicated by the lower end of the arm F
on the graduation D 3 . .

The upper end of the member I 5 of the scye-
pattern I is pivotally connected at K' with a
T-shaped arm K 3 of the shoulder-measuring 100
device K, and the member K 3 of the said arm
K 3 is provided with a graduation in centime-
ters to indicate the shoulder measurement at
the back of the person to whom the garment

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600,050

is to be fitted. A clamping-screw L and a pin
1/ are held on tlie arm K 3 and engage a slot
K 5 in a member K 4 , projecting at right angles
from the back arm K G , formed with a slot K 7 ,
5 engaged by a clamping-screw N and a pin N',
both held on the angular offset A 4 of the base
A. The latter is provided on the offset A 4
with a graduation A 5 in centimeters and on
which registers the lower edge of the arm K 6

io to indicate the length of the back from the
neck to the waist.

The arm K 6 is pivotally connected at its ex-
treme outer end by a link K s with a V-shaped
bar K 10 having slots, of which one is engaged

1.5 by a pin on the link K 8 and by a clamping-
screw 0' and slot O 2 with a link K 9 on the T-
shaped arm K 2 . This link K 9 is provided with
a graduation similar to the graduation on the
member K 3 to indicate the shoulder-to-shoul-

20 der measure or the width of the back of the
garment.

Now in using this device the scye clamping-
screws are loosened and the waist measure of
the person is first taken in centimeters. The

25 clamping-screw B is then shifted in the slot
A 7 to the corresponding number on the grad-
uation along this slot. The clamping-screw
J is similarly moved along the slot A 2 to the
same number. The next measurement taken

30 on the person is the front measure from the
neck to the waist, and this is indicated on the
graduation D 3 by the lower edge of the arm
F, shifted laterally on the member D 3 and then
fastened in place by the clamping-screw E.

35 The back measurement for the length of the
garment at the back is then taken and the
arm K 6 is shifted to indicate with its lower
edge on the corresponding number on the
graduation A 5 . The clamping-screw N is then

40 fastened and the measurement from shoulder
to shoulder to give the width of the garment
is then taken, and the arms K 4 and K 10 are
adjusted to indicate the corresponding num-
ber on the graduations of the member K 3 and

45 the arm K 9 . Now it will be seen that by the
arrangement described and by the shifting of
the arms referred to the remaining arms ad-
just themselves automatically, and when the
measurements have been taken the several

50 clamping-screws are all fastened and the pat-
tern is placed on the doubled -up material
with the outer edge of the arm K 6 along the
doubled-up edge of the material. The out-
line for the blank of the waist is now drawn

55 along the outer edges of the arms, links, <fcc,
and the material is then cut accordingly to
form the blank P, as shown in Fig. 6.

The pattern for the skirt is illustrated in
Fig. 2 and is provided with a series of arms

60 Q, R, S, T, U, Y, and W. The arm Q is pro-
vided with an angular member Q', having
a graduation in centimeters indicating the
waist measure, and in the arm is formed a
slot Q 2 , engaged by a clamping-screw R', held

65 on the adjacent arm R. A second member
Q 3 extends angularly from the arm Q and is

provided with a graduation also indicating the
waist measure, and on this member is held a
clamping-screw Q 4 , engaging the slotted link
Q 5 , having a graduation indicating in yards 70
the length of the lower edge or bottom of the
skirt. The link Q 5 is adjusted so that the
corresponding number of its graduation reg-
isters with the number of the waist measure —
that is to say, if the waist measure is sixty 75
centimeters and the bottom edge of the skirt is
to be eight yards the link Q 5 is ad j usted on the
member Q 3 until the numeral "8" registers
with the numeral "60" on the member Q 3 , it
being understood that the arm R is adjusted 80
by the clamping-screw R' on the member Q' of
the arm Q to likewise read ' ' 60 " on the gradu-
ation of the said member Q'. The link Q 5 is
pivotally connected with the arm R and R 2 ,
so that by adjusting the said link Q 5 on the 85
member Q 3 the arm R is correspondingly ad-
j usted relative to the arm Q. The next arm
S is similarly arranged to the arm R and simi-
larly adjusted relative thereto, and the same
holds true relative to the remaining arms, as 90
they are correspondingly adjusted. The arm
R is for this purpose provided with the mem-
bers R 3 and R 4 , of which the member R 3 is
engaged at its slot by a clamping-screw S' to
adjust the arm S on the graduation of the arm 95
R 3 to the waist measurement " 60", as above
given. On the member R 4 is held a clamping-
screw R 5 , engaging the slotted link R 6 , piv-
oted at S 3 on the arm S and having a gradu-
ation in yards to be adjusted on the gradu- too
ation in centimeters on the member R 4 — that
is, " 8 " and " 60 "—as above mentioned relative
to the link Q 5 and member Q 3 . The arm S
has its member S 3 connected by the clamping-
screw T" with the arm T, and the member S 4 105
is provided with a clamping-screw S 5 , engaged
by a link S 6 , pivotally connected at T 2 with
the arm T. The graduation on the link S 6
and the members S 3 S 4 is the same as above
described relative to the link Q 5 and members no
Q' Q 3 of the arm Q. The arm T is in turn
provided with the member T 3 , adjustably con-
nected with the arm U by the clamping-screw
IT, and on the member T 4 of the said arm T
is arranged a clamping-screw T 5 , engaging 115
the graduated link T 6 , pivotally connected at
U 2 with the arm U. The latter is connected
at its member U 3 by the clamping-screw V
with the arm Y, and the arm U 4 is provided
with a clamping-screw U 5 , engaging the grad- 120
uated link U 6 , pivotally connected at V 2 with
the arm Y. On the members Y 3 and Y 4 of
the arm Y are held adjustably the angular
projections of the arm W by means of clamp-
ing-screws W and W 2 , and this arm W, with 125
the arm Y, is adjusted according to the length
indicated for the plaits of the skirt. Now when
the several arms are uniformly adjusted, as
above described, according to the waist meas-
ure and the bottom edge of the skirt the opera- 130
tor places the pattern upon the doubled-up
material and draws lines along the edges of the

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600,050

arms Q, S, T, U, and W to a distance corre-
sponding to the length of the skirt from the
waist to the bottom. -

The arms S, T, and U are preferably made
5 angular, so as to give two or more sets of lines
for wide and narrow skirts.

The outer points thus formed are united
with each other by a curved line, as indicated
in Fig. 6, the waist-line being drawn along the

io members Q', B, 3 , S 3 , T 3 , and U 3 of the several

arms and sufficiently rounded to properly

connect with the waist-line of the blank P,

as indicated in the said Fig. 6.

The portion P 2 on the pattern P' indicates

15 the plaits to be formed by the extra length
of material given along the arms V and W,
as previously mentioned.

The pattern for the sleeve is illustrated in
Fig. 3 and is provided with a series of arms

20 X, Y, and Z, of which the arm X is made in
two parts, X- and X 2 , held adjustably one on
the other by providing the arm X 3 with a slot
engaged by a clamping-screw X 3 , carried on
the other part X'. A graduation X 4 in centi-

25 meters is arranged on the part X' and on it in-
dicates the upper end of the partX 3 , accord-
ing to the length of the sleeve as measured on
the person. The arm Y is similarly construct-
ed — that is, made in two parts Y' and Y 3 , held

30 adjustably one on the other, and adapted to
be fastened one on the other by a clamping-
screw Y 3 , the part Y' being provided with a
graduation Y 4 , on which indicates the upper
end of the part Y*. The arm Z is made with

35 the parts Z' and Z 3 adjustable one on the
other and adapted to be fastened together by
a clamping-screw Z 3 , and the part Z' is pro-
vided with a graduation Z 4 , on which indi-
cates the upper end of the part Z 3 .' On the

40 lower end of the partX 3 of the arm X is held
adjustably an extension X 5 , adapted to be
fastened in place by a clamping-screw X 6 , and
the upper end of the arm X' is provided with
a fixed extension X 7 , extending laterally to

45 adjustably connect with the upper end Z 5 of
the part Z' of the arm Z. A clamping-screw
X 8 serves to fasten the ends X 7 and Z 5 one to
the other, and similar connection is made be-
tween the arm Y and the arm Z — that is, the

50 part.Y' of the arm Y is provided with the angu-
lar curved end Y 3 , held adjustably on the ex-
tension Z G of the part Z', a clamping-screw Z T
serving to fasten the two ends together. On
the lower ends of the parts Y 2 and Z 3 are held

55 adjustably the L-shaped arms Y 6 and Y 7 one
on the other, with the arm Y 6 pivotally con-
nected by a link Y 10 with the extension X 5 .
A clamping-screw Y s serves to fasten the an-
gular arm Y 6 to the part Y 3 , and a set-screw

60 Y 9 serves to fasten the arms Y 6 and Y 7 one
on the other, and the set-screw Y 11 is used for
securing the arm Y 7 to the part Z 2 . Now it
will be seen that by the arrangement de-
scribed either of the arms X or Y can be lat-

6$ erally adjusted relative to the arm Z, and each
of the arms can be lengthwise adjusted rela-

tive to the length of the sleeve to be drafted.
The necessary graduations are arranged on
all the adjustable parts, so that the measures
taken from the person relative to the width 70
and length of the sleeve at different parts of
the arm can be readily laid out, so as to bring
the arms and their parts into the proper po-
sition. It is understood that the arms X and
Z, with their connections, are used for the 75
outer part of the sleeve, and the arms Z and
Y are used for drafting the inner parts of the
sleeve.

Having thus fully described my invention,
I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters 80
Patent —

1. A garment -drafting pattern, provided
with a waist-pattern comprising an angular
base, a slide held adjustably on said base, a
waist-arm having sliding engagement with 85 <
the base and pivotally connected with said
slide, a front arm held adjustably on the said
slide, a back arm held adjustably on the base,
and an arm-scye having two adjustably-con-
nected members, of which one is adjustable 90
on the slide and is connected by links with
the said front arm, the other scye member be-
ing connected with the said back arm, sub-
stantially as described.

2. A garment -drafting pattern provided 95
with a waist-pattern comprising an angular
base provided with parallel slots and a slot
arranged obliquely to the parallel slots, aslide
held adjustably on the said base and having

a pin engaging the said oblique slot, and a 100
clamping-screw engaging one of the parallel
slots, a waist-arm pivotally connected with
the said slide and adjustably connected by a
clamping-screw with the base in the other par-
allel slot, a front arm held adjustably on the 105
said slide, a back arm held adjustably on the
said base, a scye-draf ting device made in ad-
justably-connected members, of which one is
held adjustably on the said slide, self-adjust-
ing links for connecting the said device with no
the front arm, and an adjustable shoulder-
drafting device connecting the scye-draf ting
device with the said back arm, substantially
as shown and described.

3. A garment -drafting pattern, provided 115
with a skirt-pattern comprising a series of
arms, each having members extending there-
from, one arm being held adjustably with one

of its members on the corresponding member
of the adjacent arm, and a link for adjustably 120
connecting the other member of each arm with
the adjacent arm, substantially as shown and
described.

4. A garment -drafting pattern provided
with a skirt-pattern comprising a series of 125
arms, each having members extending there-
from, one arm being held adjustably with one

of its members on the corresponding member
of the adjacent arm, a link for adjustably con-
necting the other member of each arm with 130
the adjacent arm, and plait-arms held adjust-
ably on the outer arm of the said series of

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600,050

arms to draw the necessary amount of mate-
rial for the desired plaits, substantially as
shown and described.

5. A garment -drafting pattern, provided
5 with a skirt-pattern consisting of a series of
sections each of which has a longitudinal cen-
tral member and two transverse substantially
parallel members extending from said central
member on the same side thereof, the upper

io and lower transverse members of each section
being adjustably connected with the corre-
sponding members of the adjacent sections
and forming segmental top and bottom lines
in a direction corresponding to the circum-

15 ference or width of the skirt, while the cen-
tral members of said sections normally radi-

ate ia a direction corresponding to the length
of the skirt, substantially as described.

6. A garment -drafting pattern, provided
with a sleeve-pattern having a plurality of 20
longitudinally-extensible arms, one of said
arms being pivoted at one end to an exten-
sion or link attached to one end of the adja-
cent arm, and the ends of all the arms, ex-
cept the two pivotally-connected ends afore- 25
said, being connected to slide upon each other
transversely, substantially as described.

MARIE TUCEK.

Witnesses:

Theo G. Hoster,
Jno. M. Ritter.

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