bHDIES on THE SQURRE
PLANNING BOARD
A BEAUTIFUL HANDMADE WRAP gives any Square dance cos¬
tume a complete look. A wrap need not be just “a
sweater thrown over one’s shoulders.” It may, in¬
deed, be a sweater, but it might also be a cozy, warm cape
(for wintertime), a light-weight, delicate stole (for warmer
climes), a shawl or a poncho. When the home designer takes her needle in
hand, a wrap can become a very special part of her wardrobe — perhaps first a
basic white cover-up, then matching colors for different outfits. The fashions in
this Handbook have, for the most part, been designed by square dancers who
know what looks and feels best. The styles will never be out-of-date.
Also included are instructions for petticoat totes and storage, practical
purses for the lady and ties for the gentleman.
Reprinted from Ladies on the Square, a monthly column of SQUARE
DANCING Magazine, and published by The American Square Dance Society,
this Handbook is dedicated to creative square dance ladies everywhere.
- Becky Osgood
Original needlepoint cover design by MaryBeile Robbins
THE DOUBLE MOCK-CABLE CAPELET
by Lee Woker, St Louis, Missouri
T his capelet fits all sizes, hangs neatly and
trimly and provides just the amount of
shoulder warmth that feels comfortable over a
square dance dress.
The materials needed are: 3 4-oz. skeins
Sayelle yarn; 1 size 13 circular knitting needle;
1 pr. size 5 needles. The knitting directions
follow.
Using size 5 needles, cast on 63 stitches.
Row 1: K2, ° P4, Kl, repeat from ending
P4, K2.
Row 2: (right side) P2, ° K4, PI, repeat
from °, ending K4, P2.
Row 3: Same as Row 1.
Row 4: P2, " skip the next st, K the next st
but do not take off left-hand needle,
K the skipped st and transfer both
st^ to right-hand needle, skip the next
st, K the next st but do not take off
needle, K the skipped st and take
both sts off needle (double mock
cable made), PI, repeat from ®, end¬
ing row with a double mock cable on
next 4 sts, P2.
Row 5: Change to circular needle. K2, " P4,
increase 1 st in next, repeat from ®
10 times more, P4, K2.
Row 6; P2, ° K4, P2, repeat from ° across
row.
Row 7: K2, ° P4, K2, repeat from ° across
row.
Row 8: P2, ° work a double mock cable on
next 4 sts (see row 4), P2, repeat
from “ across row.
Row 9; K2, ° P4, Kl, increase 1 st in next
st, repeat from ° 10 times more, P4,
K2.
Row 10: P2, ° K4, P3, repeat from “ ending
K4, P2.
Row 11: K2, ° P4, K3, repeat from ° ending
P4, K2.
All photos, type, art and layout copyright 1986 by Bob
Osgood, 462 North Robertson Boulevard, Los Angeles,
California 90048-1799. Printed in U.S.A.
Note how softly the cape falls
over the shoulders, both the
front and back view. Buttoned
closed, it gives a bit more
warmth.
Row 12: P2, “ work a double mock cable on
next 4 sts, P3, repeat from “ ending
with a double mock cable on next 4
sts, P2.
Row 1.3: K2, ° P4, inc in next st, K2, repeat
from “ 10 times more, P4, K2.
Row 14: P2, ° K4, P4, repeat from ° ending
K4, P2.
Row 15: K2, “ P4, K4, repeat from ° ending
P4, K2.
Row 16: P2, ° work a mock cable on next 4
sts, P4, repeat from ° ending with a
double mock cable on next 4 sts, P2.
Row 17: K2, “ P4, K3, inc. 1 st in next st,
repeat from ° 10 times more, P4, K2.
Row 18: P2, ° K4, P5, repeat from ° ending
K4, P2.
Row 19: K2, ° P4, P5, repeat from ° ending
P4, K2.
Row 20: P2, “ work a double mock cable on
next 4 sts, P5, repeat from ° ending
with a double mock cable on next 4
sts, P2.
Row 21: K2, ® P4, inc. 1 st in next st, K4,
repeat from * 10 times more, P4, K2.
Keep working in pattern, increasing on alter¬
nate ends of the stockinette pattern every 4th
row (the row following double mock cable st).
Refer to Rows 9, 13, 17, 21.
Work pattern until desired length is reached,
then bind off, knitting the K sts and purling
the P sts.
With a #0 steel crochet hook, work 5 rows
of single crochet on left edge. On right edge
work 5 rows of sc with evenly spaced button¬
holes on Rows 3 and 4. (5 or 6 buttonholes.)
Fringe the capelet bottom with double 6"
strands of Sayelle.
This is an “easy-care” capelet as Sayelle is
machine washable and dryable.
After these instructions first appeared, tve
received a great mindjer of requests for re¬
prints and several comments by people who
had made the capelet. One says in part: “After
making the capelet I lined it, and with the
same lining I made a throw hood which comes
in handy for a windy night. When not in use,
it can either he turned in, or left out like a
collar. I used a wind bonnet as a pattern.”
(From Kay Buschman, Belmont, California.)
THE RIPPLE CAPE
by Dixie Schenke, Dunlap, Illinois
T his very pretty, original design for a cro¬
cheted cape was dubbed the Ripple Cape
by its creator. It just reaches one’s waist.
Supplies: Crochet Hook Size J
Three 4-oz. worsted or sayelle
Directions: Ch 118, (working from neck)
SC in 2nd st from hook, 1 SC in next st, 3
SC in next 1 SC in each of next 2 st, “ skip
2 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 3 SC in
next st, 1 SC in each of next 2 sts, repeat
from “ across ch ending to correspond, ch 1,
turn.
2nd row: Working in back loop of sts
A slightly
longer cape
ending in
fashionable
points is
modeled by
Ann Manley.
throughout dec 1 st (dec by inserting hook
in st, pull yam through, insert hook in next st,
pull yam through, YO and work off all loops
at one time). SC in next SC, ® 3 SC in next
SC, 1 SC in each of the next 2 SC, skip next
2 SC, 1 SC in each of the next 2 SC, repeat
from ° across row ending to correspond dec
1 St at end of row, ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd row
throughout increasing in every 6 rows imtil
there are 8 SC before and after center st of
each point. (To increase, work in same man¬
ner but work 2 SC in SC before the center st
of point, 3 SC in point and 2 SC in next SC
after point.)
A KNITTED CAPE
hy Jeanne Thornburg, Ridgecrest, CA
T his popular cape, modified by Jeanne, has
been seen on square dance floors across
the country. It will be an exquisite addition to
your wardrobe.
Materials; 8 oz. of 4 ply nylon or wool
No. 10 needles, 2 long straight
or one round
No. 8 needles for finishing neck
(It is simpler to knit this cape on a round
needle as it is less bulky to carry around and
to work with. You knit back and forth as you
would with straight needles.)
These directions are for a cape 14/2 inches
long. For a longer cape, you may need two
more ounces of yam.
Note: For every row, begin and end with
5 sts of seed st. Increase rows and seed st
stripe always begin on riglit side, and the in¬
crease rows are directly before and directly
after each seed st stripe.
Beginning at the neck edge, cast on 63 sts.
Work 3 rows seed stitch k 1, p 1, repeat to end
of row, end with k 1). FIRST INCREASE ROW
— Seed st 5, k 1, ® inc. I st by knitting in back
of next stitch in row below, then k 3; repeat from
* 17 times, end last repeat k 1, seed st 5. (81 sts)
P 1 row, k 1 row, P 1 row (stockinette, beginning
and ending each row with 5 seed sts). SECOND
INCREASE ROW - Seed st 5, k 2, ^ inc. 1 st as
before, k 4; repeat from ® 17 times, end last re¬
peat k 1, seed st 5. (99 sts) P 1 row (beginning
and ending with 5 seed sts). Seed Stitch
Stripe — Work 3 rows (a point to remember —
your seed st stripe will always be correct if you
have an odd number of stitches on your needles).
P 1 row (beginning and ending with 5 seed sts).
THIRD INCREASE ROW - Seed st 5, k 2, * inc.
1 st as before, k 5; repeat from “ 17 times, end
last repeat k 2, seed st 5. (117 sts) Work 5 rows
stockinette st, starting with P row, and beginning
and ending each row with 5 seed sts. FOURTH
Neck Band: With right side of 1st row
toward you, attach yam in 1st point, work 2
SC in same space, 2 SC in each remaining
point, CH 1 to turn each row. 2nd and 3rd
rows: Working through both loops of sts work
1 SC in each SC, cut yam.
Work 5 rows of SC on each edge of front,
spacing button holes on right side (in middle
row).
INCREASE ROW — Seed st 5, k 2, * inc. 1 st as
before, k 6; repeat from “ 17 times, end last re¬
peat k 3, seed st 5. (135 sts) P 1 row (beginning
and ending with 5 seed sts). Seed Stitch Stripe —
Work 3 rows. P 1 row (beginning and ending
with 5 seed sts. FIFTH INCREASE ROW - Seed
st 5, k 3, ** inc. 1 st as before, k 7; repeat from ®
17 times, end last repeat k 3, seed st 5. (153 sts)
Work 5 rows stockinette st, starting with P row
and beginning and ending each row with 5 seed
sts. SIXTH INCREASE ROW - Seed st 5, k 4, “
inc. 1 st as before, k 8; repeat from “ 17 times,
end last repeat k 3, seed st 5. (171 sts) P 1 row
(beginning and ending with 5 seed sts). Seed
Stitch Stripe — Work 3 rows. P 1 row (beginning
and ending with 5 seed sts). SEVENTH IN¬
CREASE ROW — Seed st 5, k 4, ® inc. 1 st as
before, k 9; repeat from ° 17 times, end last re¬
peat k 4, seed st 5. (189 sts) Work 7 rows stock¬
inette st, starting with P row, and beginning and
ending each row with 5 seed sts. EIGHTH IN¬
CREASE ROW - Seed st 5, k 5, * inc. 1 st as
before, k 10; repeat from ° 17 times, end last re¬
peat k 4, seed st 5. (207 sts). P 1 row (beginning
and ending with 5 seed sts). Seed Stitch Stripe —
Work 3 rows. P 1 row (beginning and ending with
5 seed sts). NINTH INCREASE ROW - Seed st
5, k 5; ® inc. 1 st as before, k 11; repeat from ®
17 times, end last repeat k 5, seed st 5. (225 sts)
Work 9 rows stockinette st, starting with P row,
and beginning and ending each row with 5 seed
sts. TENTH INCREASE ROW - Seed st 5, k 6,
“ inc. 1 st as before, k 12; repeat from “ 17 times,
end last repeat k 5, seed st 5. (243 sts) P 1 row
(beginning and ending with 5 seed sts). Seed
Stitch Stripe — Work 3 rows. P 1 row (beginning
and ending with 5 seed sts). ELEVENTH IN-
CREASE-ROW - Seed st 5, k 6, " inc. 1 st as
before, k 13; repeat from * 17 times, end last re¬
peat k 6, seed st 5. (261 sts) Work 9 rows stock¬
inette st, starting with P row, and beginning and
ending each row with 5 seed sts. TWELFTH
INCREASE ROW - Seed st 5, k 6, * inc. 1 st as
before, k 14; repeat from * 17 times, end last re¬
peat, K 7, seed st 5. (279 sts) P 1 row (beginning
and ending with 5 seed sts). Seed Stitch Stripe —
Work 3 rows. P 1 row (beginning and ending
with 5 seed sts). THIRTEENTH INCREASE
ROW — Seed st 5, k 7, “ inc. 1 st as before, k
15; repeat from “ 17 times, end last repeat k 7,
seed st 5. (297 sts) Work 9 rows stockinette st,
starting with P row, and beginning and ending
each row with 5 seed sts. Seed Stripe Border —
Work 7 rows seed st, bind off loosely. Neck Fin¬
ishing — With No. 8 needles, pick up the 63 sts
at neck and work 5 to 7 rows (depending on how
wide you want) of seed st to form standup collar.
Bind off. Neck Fastening — With No. 10 needles,
cast on 3 sts. Work in seed st for approximately
27 rows; bind off. Form this strip into a Figure 8;
sew together. Sew two Hz in. round buttons at
neck edge and loop knitted strip around to fasten
neck.
A C/^CT l/KIITTCPt /"ADC An unusual pattern is formed
own I MNI I I LLt L-MfL by the dropped stitches.
shared by Pat Walker, Seattle, WA
Note how softly the
cape falls over Pat’s
shoulders.
T hese instructions are from a 30-year old,
out-of-print. Bear Brand instruction book.
Pat cautions, “If the directions seem strange,
just trust and follow them exactly. They do
work.”
Materials Needed
2 skeins knitting worsted
1 pair size 8, 14" needles
Gauge
Before starting to knit, check the following
gauge to see how your knitting compares. Knit
a 4-inch sample. If you have less stitches than
shown, your work is too loose. If you have
more stitches than shown in the gauge, the
work is too tight and you might use larger
needles.
Before dropping sts, 9 sts = 2 inches; 13
rows = 2 inches.
After dropping sts, 12 sts = 4 inches; 13
rows = 2 inches.
Note: Stitches are dropped and raveled
when knitting is finished.
Directions
Cast on 48 sts for left front edge. P 1 row, K
1 row for 6 rows for purl rib. K 1 row, P 1 row
for 6 rows for knit rib on right side. Repeat
these 12 rows until there are 6 rows in the 30th
purl rib; end at lower edge. Bind off purling as
follows: Bind off 4 sts*, loosen loop on right
needle, pass ball of yarn through loop and
drop loop from needle. Draw loop up tightly
thus binding off another st. Drop next 2 sts
from left needle and ravel to cast-on row.
Leave enough yarn to stretch across dropped
sts and keep work flat. Bind off next 3 sts.
Repeat from *. End last repeat, bind off 4 sts.
Keep last loop on needle and' do not break
yarn. There are 7 raveled stripes.
Yoke — Pick up and K 3 sts on side edge of
first purl rib for yoke. There are 4 sts, includ¬
ing loop on needle; YO*, skip next 6 rows of
knit rib, pick up and K 3 sts in next purl rib;
YO; repeat from *. End last repeat pick up and
K 4 sts; 121 sts. P 1 row, K 1 row, P 1 row.
Next row — K 4, * drop next st — the st
over the YO, ravel it to pick-up row; do not
allow extra yarn across dropped st; K 3. Re¬
peat from *, end last repeat, K 4; 92 sts.
Dec. row — P 1, * P 2 tog., P 1. Repeat board, wrong side out. When dry, steam the
from *, end last repeat, P2; 62 sts. other side.
Neck casing — PI row, K 1 row for 7 rows. Hem bound-off edge of neck to 8th row
for purl rib on right side. Bind off. below. Make twisted cord about 52" long; tie
Finishing — Work blanket st on ends of knot in ends of cord and run through neck
casing. Steam the cape lightly on the ironing casing.
A DELICATE POINTED CAPE
Lily wears this very short cape which bareiy reaches the waist.
T he instructions for this charming, knitted
cape were shared by our Canadian
dancer-friend, Lily Dreger. A medium-
weight Columbia Minerva Glimmerfluff yarn
was used for the cape modeled here.
Materials
Two 4 oz. balls acrylic yarn
#2 needles (Canada) or #13 (U.S.)
Directions
Cast on 52 stitches.
Row 1; K 18 P 18 K 1 (Y.O.K. 2 tog) 7 times
Y.O.K. 1
Row 2: K 35 turn P 18 K 2 (Y.O.K. 2 tog) 7
times Y.O.K. 1
Row 3: K 36 turn P 18 K 3 (Y.O.K. 2 tog) 7
times Y.O.K. 1
Row 4: Knit across
Row 5; K 40 (Y.O.K. 2 tog) 7 times Y.O.K. 1
Row 6: K 18 P 20 turn K 23 (Y.O.K. 2 tog) 7
times Y.O.K. 1
Row 7: K 19 P 20 turn, knit across
Row 8: Cast off 5 stitches K14P19K18
These eight rows equal one point. Repeat for
20 or 21 points depending on the size required.
Single crochet fronts and necks, if desired.
Button hole three loops on right side and sew
button on left side.
KNITTED MAJORCAN-STYLE BOLERO
rewritten by Tommi Herrington, Potter Valley, California
S QUARE DANCER and knitter-par-excellcnce,
Tommi Herrington, deciphered and re¬
wrote these instructions which originally
came from England. Then she knitted the
sample bolero pictured here.
Materials Needed
6 oz 4-ply yard (Columbia, Minerva, Glim
mer. Fluff, Roly Poly, Dazzle, etc.)
1 pair Size 13 knitting needles
1 pair Size 7 knitting needles
A British bolero, knit¬
ted by Californian,
Tommi Herrington,
and modeled by
Mary Belle Robbins.
Directions
Using #7 needles, cast on 74 sts.
(A) Kl, PI for 6 rows.
Change to #13 needles.
(B) Kl, PI for 10 rows. Always knit 1st
stitch in the regular way but all other knit
stitches, knit into the stitch below to make a
loose stitch.
Change to #7 needles.
(C) Knit 6 rows as per (A), increasing in
every 7th st. in 1st row (84 sts).
Change to #13 needles.
(D) Knit 12 rows as per (B).
Change to #7 needles.
(E) Knit 6 rows as per (A), increasing in
every 8th st. in 1st row (94 sts).
Change to #13 needles.
(F) Knit 14 rows as per (B).
Change to #7 needles.
(G) Knit 6 rows as per (A), increasing in
every 10th stitch in 1st row (103 sts).
Change to #13 needles.
(H) Knit 16 rows as per (B). Bind off.
Ties
With #7 needles, right side facing you, pick
up 41 sts. along the side of the garment. Al¬
ways knit first 4 sts. andlast4sts. of every row.
Row 1: K4, P33, K4
Row 2: K4, Kl, PI (7 times), K 2 tog., K 1, *K 2
tog. in back of stitches, Kl, PI (7 times), K4
(39 sts)
*Always do second K2 tog. in back of sts.
Row 3: K4, Kl, PI (7 times), P3, Kl, PI (7
times), K 4
Row 4: K4, Kl, PI (6 times), Kl, K2 tog., Kl,
K2 tog., PI, Kl, PI (6 times), K4 (37 sts.)
Row 5: K4, Kl, PI (6 times), Kl, P4, Kl, PI (6
times), K4
Row 6: K4, Kl, PI (6 times), K2 tog., Kl, K2
tog., Kl, PI (6 times), K4, (35 sts.)
Row 7: K4, Kl, PI (6 times), P3, Kl, PI (6
times), K4
Row 8: K4, Kl, PI (5 times), Kl, K2 tog., Kl,
K2 tog., PI, Kl, PI (5 times), K4 (33 sts.)
Row 9: K4, Kl, PI (5 times), Kl, P4, Kl, PI (5
times), K4
Row 10: K4, Kl, PI (5 times), K2 tog., Kl, K2
tog., Kl, PI (5 times), K4 (31 sts.)
Row 11: K4, Kl, PI (5 times), P3, Kl, PI (5
times), K4
Row 12: K4, Kl, PI (4 times), Kl, K2 tog., Kl,
K2 tog., PI, Kl, PI (4 times), K4 (29 sts.)
Row 13: K4, Kl, PI (4 times), Kl, P4, Kl, PI
(4 times), K4
Row 14: K4, Kl, PI (4 times), K2 tog., Kl, K2
tog., Kl, PI (4 times), K4 (27 sts.)
Row 15: K4, Kl, PI (4 times), P3, Kl, PI (4
times), K4
Row 16: K4, Kl, PI (3 times), Kl, K2tog., Kl,
K2 tog., PI, Kl, PI (3 times), K4 (25 sts.)
Row 17: K4, Kl, PI (3 times), Kl, P4, Kl, PI
(3 times), K4
Row 18: K4, Kl, PI (3 times), K2tog., Kl, K2
tog., Kl, PI (3 times), K4 (23 sts.)
Row 19: K4, Kl, PI (3 times), P3, Kl, PI (3
times), K4
Row 20: K4, Kl, PI (2 times), Kl, K2tog., Kl,
K2 tog., PI, Kl, PI (2 times), K4 (21 sts.)
Row 21: K4, Kl, PI (2 times), Kl, P4, Kl, PI
(2 times), K4
Row 22: K4, Kl, PI (2 times), K2 tog., Kl, K2
tog., Kl, PI (2 times), K4 (19 sts.)
Row 23: K4, Kl, PI (2 times), P3, Kl, PI (2
times), K4
Row24: K4, Kl, PI, Kl, K2 tog., Kl, K2tog.,
PI, Kl, PI, K4 (17 sts.)
Row 25: K4, Kl, PI, Kl, P4, Kl, PI, K4
Row 26: K4, Kl, PI, K2 tog., Kl, K2 tog.,
Kl, PI, K4 (15 sts.)
Row 27: K4, Kl, PI, P3, Kl, PI, K4
Row28: K4, Kl, K2 tog., Kl, K2 tog., PI, K4
(13 sts.)
Row 29: K4, Kl, P3, Kl, K4
Row30: K4, K2 tog., Kl, K2 tog., K4 (11 sts.)
Row 31: K4, P3, K4 (11 sts.)
Row 32: Kll (11 sts.)
Row 33: K4, P3, K4 (11 sts.)
Repeat Rows 32 and 33 until desired length of
ties. (40 rows) Knit every row for 8 rows. Bind
off.
Repeat on other side of garment for match¬
ing tie.
CABLE-STITCH KNITTED CAPE
by Barbara Lane, Estes Park, Colorado
T his elbow-length cape is fairly warm. The
pattern uses a variety of different cables
and I suggest putting markers on your needles
rather than counting each time. Here are the
instructions in more detail than you might
normally expect to find and I hope they will
help you and you will enjoy wearing the cape.
Materials
4 4-oz. skeins knitting worsted weight yarn
No. 10 circular needle
No. 6 circular needle
(Cable needle or double-pointed needle)
Directions
With No. 6 needle, cast on 73 sts.
Row 1 - Slip first St as to purl, purl across.
Row 2 - (right side) S11 st as to p, p 1, k 1, p 1,
k 1 (front border), continue across ih seed st,
end k1,p1,k1,p1,k1 (border).
Row 3 - Repeat Row 2.
Row 4 - Repeat Row 2.
Row 5 - Repeat Row 2.
Row 6 - Repeat Row 2.
Row 7 - Repeat Row 2.
Row 8 - Work front border in seed st as before
(5 sts), p2, *k4, p 1, repeat from *, ending last
11 sts with k 4, p 2, border (5 sts).
Row 9 - In front border, si 1 as to p, p 1, k 1,
yarn over, k 2 tog (buttonhole), k 2, *p 4, k 1,
repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 10 - Border (as Row 2), p 2, *(skip the next
st, k the next st, but do not take off left hand
needle, k the skipped st and take both off left
hand needle, skip the next st, going behind it,
k the next st in normal way, k the skipped st
and slip both off left hand needle) (twist out), p
1, repeat from *, ending last 7 sts with p 2, and
border (5 sts).
Row 11 - Change to #10 needle and work bor¬
der, k 2, * p 4, (with right hand needle, pick up
right side of st in row below next st, k that
picked up st, then k next st as normal) (right
increase), repeat from *, 10 times more, end¬
ing p 4, k 2, border (84 sts).
Row 12 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 2, repeat from *
across, ending border (5 sts).
Row 13 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 2, repeat from *
across, ending border (5 sts).
Row 14 - Border, p 2, * (skip the next st, and
going behind it, k the next st in the normal way,
k the skipped st, and slip both off left hand
needle, skip the next st, k the next st, leave on
needle, and k the skipped st, take both off left
hand needle) (twist in), p 2, repeat from *
across, ending border (5 sts).
Row 15 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 2, (with right hand
needle, pick up left side of st in 2nd row below
st just knitted, si the picked up st to left hand
needle by inserting left hand needle between
last 2 sts on right hand needle, and then into
last st and slip off right hand needle, then k the
picked up st as usual) (left Increase), repeat
from *, 10 times more, ending p 4, k 2, border
(95 sts).
Row 16 - Border, p 2, * twist out on 4 sts, (see
Row 10), p 3, repeat from *, ending twist out on
4 sts, p 2, border.
Row 17 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 3, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 18 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 3, repeat from *,
ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 19 -Border, k2, *p4, right increase in next
st, (see Row 11), k 2, repeat from *, ending p 4,
k 2, border (106 sts).
Row 20 -Border, p 2, * twist in on 4 sts, (see Row
14), p 4, repeat from *, ending twist in on 4 sts,
p 2, border.
Row 21 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 4, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 22 - Border, p 2,*twist out on 4 sts, p 4,
repeat from *, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 23 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 4, left increase (see
Row 15), repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2, border
(117 sts).
Row 24 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 5, repeat from *,
ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 25 - S11 as to p, p 1, k 1, yarn over, k 2 tog,
(buttonhole), k 2, * p 4, k 5, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 26 - Border, p 2, * twist in on 4 sts, p 5,
repeat from *, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 27 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, k 4,
repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2, border (128 sts).
Row 28 - Border, p 2, * twist out on 4 sts, p 6,
repeat from *, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 29 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 6, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 30 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 6, repeat from *
ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 31 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 6, left increase,
repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2, border (139 sts).
Row 32 - Border, p 2, * twist in on 4 sts, p 7,
repeat from *, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 33 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 7, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 34 - Border, p 2, * twist out on 4 sts, p 7,
repeat from *, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 35 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, k 7,
repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2, border (150 sts).
Row 36 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 8, repeat from *
ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 37 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 8, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 38 - Border, p 2, * twist in on 4 sts, p 8,
repeat from *, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 39 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, k 7,
left increase, repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2,
border (172 sts).
Row 40 - Border, p 2, * twist out on 4 sts, p 10,
repeat from *, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 41 - S11 as to p, p 1, k 1, yarn over, k 2 tog
(buttonhole), k 2 * p 4, k 10, repeat from *,
ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 42 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 10, repeat from *,
ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 43 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, p 8, k
1, left increase, repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2,
border (194 sts).
Row44 -Border, p2, ‘twist in on4sts, p2, k8, p
2, repeat from *, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 45 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 2, p 8, k 2, repeat
from *, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 46 - Border, p 2, ‘twist out on 4 sts, p 2, (si 2
to dpn, hold in back, k 2, k 2 from dpn, si 2 to
dpn, hold in front, k 2, k 2 from dpn) (reverse
cable rib), p 2, repeat from ‘, ending twist out
on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row 47 - Border, k 2, ‘ p 4, right increase, k 1, p
8, k 2, left increase, repeat from ‘, ending p 4,
k 2, border (216 sts).
Row 48 - Border, p 2, ‘ k 4, p 3, k 8, p 3, repeat
from ‘, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 49 - Border, k 2, ‘ p 4, k 3, p 8, k 3, repeat
from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 50 - Border, p 2, ‘ twist in on 4 sts, p 3, k 8, p
3, repeat from ‘, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 51 - Border, k 2, ‘ p 4, right increase, k 2, p
8, k 3, left increase, repeat from ‘, ending p 4,
k 2, border (238 sts).
Row 52 - Border, p 2, ‘ twist out on 4 sts, p 4,
reverse cable rib on 8 sts (see Row 46), p 4,
repeat from ‘, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 53 - Border, k 2, ‘ p 4, k 4, p 8, k 4, repeat
from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 54 - Border, p 2 ‘ k 4, p 4, k 8, p 4, repeat
from ‘, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 55 - Border, k 2, ‘ p 4, right increase, k 3, p
8, k 4, left Increase, repeat from ‘ ending p 4, k
2, border (260 sts).
Row 56 - Border, p 2, ‘ twist in on 4 sts, p 5, k 8, p
5, repeat from ‘, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 57 - SI 1 as to p, p 1, k 1, yarn over, k 2
tog,(buttonhole), k 2, ‘ p 4, k 5, p 8, k 5, repeat
from ‘ ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 58 - Border, p 2, * twist out on 4 sts, p 5,
reverse cable rib on 8 sts, p 5, repeat from *,
ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row 59 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, k 4, p
8, k 5, left increase, repeat from *, ending p 4,
k 2, border (282 sts).
Row 60 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 6, k 8, p 6, repeat
from *, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 61 - Border, k 2, * p 4, k 6, p 8, k 6,repeat
from *, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 62 - Border, p 2, * twist in on 4 sts, p 6, k 8, p
6, repeat from *, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 63 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, k 5, p
8, k 6, left increase, repeat from *, ending p 4,
k 2, border (304 sts).
Row 64 - Border, p 2 * twist out on 4 sts, p 7,
reverse cable rib on 8 sts, p 7, repeat from *,
ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row 65 - Border, k 2, *, p 4, k 7, p 8, k 7, repeat
from *, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 66 - Border, p 2, * k 4, p 7, k 8, p 7, repeat
from *, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 67 - Border, k 2, * p 4, right increase, p 4, k
2, p 8, k 2, p 4, k 1, left increase, repeat from
*,ending p 4, k 2, border (326 sts).
Row 68 -Border, p2, ‘twist in on 4 sts, p2, k4, p
2, k 8, p 2, k 4, p 2, repeat from *, ending twist
in on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row69 -Border, k2, *p4, k2, p4,k2, p8,k2, p
4, k 2, repeat from *, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 70 - Border, p2, ‘twist out on 4 sts, p2 (sl2
to dpn, hold in front, k 2, k 2 from dpn) (front
cable), p 2, reverse cable rib on 8 sts, p 2, (si 2
to dpn, hold in back, k 2, k 2 from dpn) (back
cable), p 2, repeat from ‘, ending twist out on 4
sts, p 2, border.
Row 71 - Border, k2,‘p4,k2,p4,k2, p8,k2,p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 72 - Border, p2,‘k4,p2,k4,p2,k8,p2,k
4, p 2, repeat from ‘, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row 73 - SI 1 as to p, p 1, k 1, yarn over, k 2
tog,(buttonhole), k2, *p4, k2, p4, k2, p8, k2,
p 4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 74 - Border, p 2, ‘ twist in on 4 sts, p 2, front
cable on 4 sts (see Row 70), p 2, k 8, p 2, back
cable on 4 sts, (see Row 70), p 2, repeat from
‘, ending twist in on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row75 -Border, k2, ‘p4, k2, p4, k2, p8,k2, p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 76 - Border, p2, ‘ twist out on 4 sts, p2, k4,
p 2, reverse cable on 8 sts, p 2, k 4, p 2, repeat
from ‘, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row77 - Border, k 2, ‘p4, k2, p4, k2, p8, k2, p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 78 - Border, p 2, ‘ k 4, p 2, front cable on 4
sts, p 2, k 8, p 2, back cable on 4 sts, p 2,
repeat from ‘, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row79 - Border, k2,‘p4,k2, p4,k2,p8, k2,p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row80 - Border, p 2, ‘twist in on 4 sts, p2, k4, p
2, k 8, p 2, k 4, p 2, repeat from ‘, ending twist
in on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row 81 - Border, k2,‘p4,k2,p4,k2,p8,k2,p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 82 - Border, p 2, ‘ twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
front cable on 4 sts, p 2, reverse cable rib on 8
sts, p2, back cable on 4 sts, p 2, repeat from ‘,
ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row83 - Border, k2, ‘ p4, k2, p4, k2, p8, k2, p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row84 - Border, p2,‘k4,p2, k4, p2,k8, p2, k
4, p 2, repeat from ‘, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row85 - Border, k2,‘p4,k2,p4,k2,p8, k2,p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row86 - Border, p 2, ‘twist in on 4 sts, p 2, front
cable on 4 sts, p 2, k 8, p 2, back cable on 4
sts, p 2, repeat from ‘, ending twist in on 4 sts,
p 2, border.
Row 87 - Border, k2, ‘p4,k2,p4,k2,p8, k2,p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 88 -Border, p 2, ‘twist out on 4 sts, p2, k4,
p 2, reverse cable rib on 8 sts, p 2, k 4, p 2,
repeat from ‘, ending twist out on 4 sts, p 2,
border.
Row 89 - Border, k 2, ‘ p 4, k 2, p 4, k 2, p 8, k 2, p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 90 - Border, p 2, ‘ k 4, p 2, front cable on 4
sts, p 2, k 8, p 2, back cable on 4 sts, p 2,
repeat from ‘, ending k 4, p 2, border.
Row91 - Border, k2,‘p4, k2,p4, k2,p8, k2,p
4, k 2, repeat from ‘, ending p 4, k 2, border.
Row 92 - Border, p 2, ‘ twist in on 4 sts, p 2, k 4, p
2, k 8, p 2, k 4, p 2, repeat from ‘, but on 5th
repeat, increase 1 st in center of reverse cable
pattern (right increase), then continue on with
repeat and repeat from ‘ 5 times more, ending
twist in on 4 sts, p 2, border.
Row 93 - Border, ‘ p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘,
including border, end k 1.
Row 94 -Border, ‘ p 1, k1, repeat from‘, ending
k 1.
Row 95 - Border, ‘ p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘, ending
k 1.
Row 96 - Border, ‘ p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘, ending
k 1.
Row 97 - Border, ‘ p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘, ending
k 1.
Row 98 - Border, ‘ p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘, ending
k 1.
Row 99 -Border, ‘p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘, ending
k 1,
Row 100 -Border, ‘p 1, k 1, repeat from ‘, ending
k 1.
Bind off in seed stitch (p 1, k 1). Fringe by
knotting two 6" strands in each bind off stitch.
Sew on buttons.
A CABLE-YOKE CAPE
by Deen Cummings, Santa Barbara, California
Anna Lee Hetland wears this wonderfully warm cape,
perfect for colder weather. The instructions given here
do not call for arm slits, but these can be made by
binding off (at the desired spot and length) alongside
one of the cables. The fringe and crocheted trim can be
the same color as the body of the cape, a deeper shade
of the main color or a contrasting color. All work well.
T his lovely knitted cape is warm, comfort¬
able and most attractive. The length may
be adjusted, shorter or longer, to suit an indi¬
vidual. ■ I
Materials
8 skeins 4 oz 4-ply (use two strands as one)
OR
20 skeins 2 oz Jumbo yarn
Size 10Va needles (9" straight for yoke; 36" circu¬
lar for body) Buttons
Directions for Yoke
Cast on 32 sts, placing markers thus:
2*8*2*8*2*8*2
Row 1 p2, k8, p2, k8, p2, k8, p2
Row 2 k2, p8, k2, p8, k2, p8, k2
Rows 3 & 5 repeat Row 1
Rows 4 & 6 repeat Row 2
Row 7 p2, cbl 8, p2, k8, p2, cbl 8, p2
Row 8 (k2, p8) 3x, k2
Row 9 (p2, k8) 3x, leave 2 sts on needle, turn
Row 10 slip 1, p7, k2, (p8, k2) 2x
Row 11 {p2, k8) 2x, p2, leave 10 sts on needle,
turn
Row 12 slip 1, k1, (p8, k2) 2x
Row 13 p2, k8, p2, leave 20 sts on needle, turn
Row 14 slip 1, k1, p8, k2
Row 15 (p2, k8) 3x, p2
Row 16 (k2, p8) 3x, k2
Row 17 (p2, k8) 3x, leave 2 sts (same as Row 9)
Row 18 slip 1, p7, k2, (p8, k2) 2x (same as
Row 10)
Row 19 p2, cbl 8, p2, k8, p2, leave 10 sts on
needle, turn
Row 20 slip 1, k1, (p8, k2) 2x (same as Row 12)
Row 21 p2, k8, p2, leave 20 sts (same as Row
13 )
Row 22 slip 1, k1, p8, k2 (same as Row 14)
Row 23 (p2, k8) 3x, p2 (same as Row 15)
Row 24 (k2, p8) 3x, k2 (same as Row 16)
Row 25 (p2, k8) 3x, leave 2 sts (same as Row 9)
Row 26 slip 1, p7, k2, (p8, k2) 2x (same as
Row 10)
Row 27 (p2, k8) 2x, p2, leave 10 sts (same as
Row 11)
Row 28 slip 1, k1, (p8, k2) 2x (same as Row 12)
Row 29 p2, k8, p2, leave 20 sts (same as Row
13)
Row 30 slip 1, p8, k2
Repeat Rows 7 thru 30 eight more times.
Repeat Row 7.
Repeat Rows 2 thru 6, making 228 rows total.
Bind off.
Directions for Body
Pick up 228 sts along bottom edge of yoke
placing markers thus: 2* (8*2*6*3*6*2*) 8x, then
8*2. The sts *3* which are worked k1 ,p1 ,k1 will be
referred to as seed st 3 (k1,p1,k1) after the last
row.
Row 1 (wrong side) (k2, p8, k2, p6, k1, pi, k1, p6)
8x, end k2, p8, k2
Row 2 (p2, cbl 8, p2, k6, s3, k6) 8x, end p2, cbl 8,
P2
Row 3 (k2, p8, k2, p6, s3, p6) 8x, end k2, p8, k2
Row 4 (p2, k8, p2, kf&b next st, k5, s3, k4, kf&b
next st, kl) 8x, end p2, k8, p2. K front & back of
same st—(increase made) = 244 sts
Row 5 (k2, p8, k2, seed 17—beg with p) 8x, end
k2, p8, k2
Row 6 (p2, k8, p2, seed 17) 8x, end p2, k8, p2
Row 7 Repeat Row 5
Row 8 Repeat Row 6
Row 9 Repeat Row 5
Row 10 (p2, k8, p2, k7, s3, k7) 8x, end p2, k8, p2
Row 11 (k2, p8, k2, p7, s3, p7) 8x, end k2, p8, k2
Row 12 Repeat Row 10
Row 13 Repeat Row 11
Row 14 (p2, cbl 8, p2, k7, s3, k7) 8x, end p2, cbl
8, p2
Row 15 (k2, p8, k2, p7, S3, p7) 8x, end k2, p8, k2)
Row 16 (p2, k8, p2, kf&b of next, k6, s3, k5, kf&b
next, kl) 8x, end p2, k8, p2 = 260 sts
Row 17 (k2, p8, k2, seed 19— beg w k) 8x, end
k2, p8, k2
Continue in established pattern, increasing
in first knit row after the cable row two more
times (292 sts). Work thru the seventh band of
seed stitches, 81 rows. Bind off.
Starting at bottom edge of right front, sin¬
gle crochet around entire cape, adjusting size
of neck in process. Do a second row of crochet
on right front making button holes for as many
buttons as desired, work shell stitch across
neck and continue down left front with cro¬
chet.
(Shell St: 4dc in 2nd st from hook,* sk 1dc, 4dc in
next,* around neck, end with 4dc in last ch).
Use double strand for fringe is using 4 ply.
Single strand for Jumbo.
If single strand of 4 oz. 4 ply is used, size 9
needles are required. Follow same instruc¬
tions as above.
For buttonhole row—instead of sc in ea sc,
ch 1 and skip 1 sc, then continue sc in ea sc,
etc. Or if using larger button ch 2 or 3 and skip
2 or 3 sc, and continue sc in ea sc except where
you need additional buttonholes.
Cable Stitch
A cable is usually worked on an even num¬
ber of sts (in this case, 8) with a few purl sts on
either side (in this case, 2) to set it off. Work
the row to the sts to be used for the cable (cbl
8), slip half (4 sts) of the cable group sts onto a
double pointed needle or cable holder; hold
these sts in back of work. Knit the remaining 4
sts of the cable group. Now knit the sts from
the cable holder without twisting or turning
any sts. Finish row as directed in pattern.
QUAKER-STITCH CAPE
by Dorothy M. Huckle, La Mesa, California
T his beautiful cape was designed espe¬
cially for our readers by Dorothy Huckle.
Dorothy is a square dance hobbyist but a pro¬
fessional knitter.
Materials
3 balls white Unger Roly Poly
4 balls Columbia Minerva Civona white Baby
Pomp (50 grams)
Plastic markers
(Note) Both yarns are knitted together throughout
the cape.
Size #11 circular needles
Directions
Cast on 56 stitches. Knit 3 rows in garter stitch.
(Knit every row)
Pattern for Cape
Row 1 : (Right side) Knit 10 sts (collar), place
marker. Knit 28 sts (body of cape),
place marker. Lace Trim: Knit 1, * YO,
K2tog; repeat from * across row, end
with YO, K1. (There are now 19 sts. in
Lace Trim Section.)
Row 2: (Wrong side) Knit 19 stitches, purl 28
stitches. Turn work. Do not work 10
collar stitches.
Row3 : Knit 28 sts; K2, *YO, K2tog, repeat from
* across row, end with YO, K1. (20 sts)
Row 4: Knit 20 stitches, purl 28 stitches. Turn
work. Do not work 10 collar stitches.
The tiny rolled collar and interesting pattern ending in
diamonds create great interest in this cape.
Row 5 ; Knit 28 sts, * YO, K2tog, repeat trom *
across row, end with YO, K1. (21 sts)
Row 6: Knit 21 stitches, purl 28 stitches, knit 10
collar stitches.
Row 7 : Knit 10 collar sts, purl 28 sts, K2, * YO,
K2tog, repeat from * across row, end
with YO, K1. (22 sts)
KNITTED SLEEVES
FOR CAPES
by Barbara Lane, Estes Park, Colorado
B arbara lane suggests these knitted sleeves
be worn underneath a cape when cold
weather sets in. The sleeves can be knitted in
yarn to match or contrast with any square
dance cape.
Materials and Directions
Size 5 double-pointed needles
Size 6 double-pointed needles or 16" circular
needle Size 6
Worsted-weight knitting yarn
Cast on 42 stitches with Size 5 needles. Add
marker to indicate end of a row, and working
around Kl, PI rib for 25 rows, increasing 1
stitch last row (43 stitches). Change to Size 6
needles and continue working around. Increase
1 stitch at the beginning and end of row every
Barbara models the sleeves, showing
how they appear without the cape.
Row 8: Knit 22 stitches, knit 28 stitches. Turn
work. (Do not work 10 collar stitches.)
Row 9 : Purl 28 sts, Kl, * YO, K2tog, repeat
from * across row, end with YO, Kl. (23
sts)
Row 10: Knit 23 stitches, knit 28 stitches. Turn
work.
Row 11: Purl 28 sts, K2, * YO, K2tog, repeat
from * across row, end with YO, Kl. (24
sts)
Row 12: Bind off 6 stitches (loosely). Knit 18
stitches, knit 28 stitches, knit 10 collar
stitches.
Repeat 12 rows of pattern until desired length.
Sample shown has 21 complete patterns. End
with 3 rows of garter stitch over 56 stitches. Bind
off loosely.
Knit a 3 stitch cord as follows: Using a size 7 or 8
double pointed needle, cast on 3 stitches. Knit
these 3 stitches. Slip the 3 stitches to other end of
needle and knit again. Repeat. You are knitting a
small tube. Repeat for desired length and tie off.
Cord is inserted in spaces between collar and
body of cape.
8th row, 10 times. Work 19 rows
even or to desired length of sleeve.
Bind off. Work 1 row single cro¬
chet over baby elastic made
slightly smaller than arm mea¬
surement at top of sleeve. Fasten
off.
Yarn loops on each sleeve allow them
to be slipped over a button at the neck
of the cape for easy carrying or storage.
CROCHETED SHAWL
by Flo Peginan, Glen Ellyn, Illinois
M eet A NEW square dance friend at a special
dance and you’re apt to discover a new
wrap. Such was the case with this lovely, full,
soft shawl fashioned from the talented fingers
of Flo Pegman.
Materials Needed
10 ounces Sport Yarn Crochet Hook size H
Directions
Starting at center, ch. .5, si. st. in 1st st. to
form a ring.
Ist Rnd.: Ch. 4, DC in ring. ch. 1, DC in
ring. Repeat 7 more times, with a ch. 1 be¬
tween each DC. Total of 10 DC s in ring (Ch. 4
at start of rnd, counts as Ist DC in ring). Ch. 4
and turn.
2nd Rnd.; 1 DC in Istch. space, ch. 1. In
next ch. space put 1 DC ch. 1, 1 DC, ch 1 (this
constitutes a GORE), Repeat gore st. 8 more
times. (Remember to always put a ch. 1 be¬
tween each st.) This rnd. now has a total of 9
gores. Ch. 4 and turn.
3rd Rnd.; 1 DC in 1st ch. space (this is tlie
Ist gore), ch. 1, *1 DC in nextch. space, ch. 1,
and now the gore st. in next gore space, ch, 1,*
— repeat from * to * to within last cli. space of
rnd. (last space is a gore), and now end rnd.
with a gore st., ch. 4 and turn.
Flo Pegman models her shawl, showing
how it drapes softly over her shoulders.
Note the gores on this shawl.
-7. ' "1 .
1
1
P
4th Rnd.: 1 DC in 1st ch. space (this is the
1st gore), ch. 1, *1 DC in nextch. space, ch. 1,
1 DC in ne.xt ch. space, and now the gore st, in
next gore space, ch. 1 — repeat from * to * to
within last cli. space of rnd. (last space is a
gore), and now end rnd. with a gore st., ch. 4
and turn.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each rnd. will in-
crea.se by 1 DC between each gore.
Continue to increase in this manner until
there are 29 DC s between each gore, or de¬
sired length.
Outer Border: Start at corner. Work 7 tri¬
ple crochet in first space, ch. 1, skip 3 spaces.
In fourth space do 7 triple crochet, ch. 1.
Work this around the entire shawl.
A REVERSIBLE SHAWL hy Nell Ehlen, Wichita Falls, Texas
T HIS TRUNGULAR SHAWL is ajoy to make since
the hook is size Q (I dub this, works
Quickly), and uses only the single crochet
stitch. A beginner as well as an experienced
crocheter will find it very easy to make.
By using two different colors of yarn, the
shawl becomes reversable and thus can be
worn with many square dance dresses.
Choose your favorite colors to work with. The
shawl shown with this article was made with
one side yellow and one side orange.
Because of its doubleness, the shawl has a
great deal of warmth, yet still maintains a
certain amount of openness.
One word of caution: Be careful to crochet
through only two loops (one of each color) and
not three loops.
Each row is cut and tied off. Because of this,
the variations of color are endless. You can
even use up your odds and ends of wool and
make a shawl in a variety of interesting stripes.
The same stitch and back-to-back design
can be adapted for a variety of articles: af-
Marilee Luff, cozy and warm, in Nell’s shawl.
ghans, place mats, hot pads (use rug yarn for
these) or cap and scarf sets.
Materials Needed
2 skeins of each color, 4 ply 4 oz.
Size Q plastic hook (approximately size 12)
Directions
Row 1: (With color A) Chain, approxi¬
mately 60 inches, or whatever length you de¬
sire. Larger sizes would require top edge to be
longer. Cut and tie.
Row 2: (With Color B) Make a slip knot or
loop and put on hook. Turn the chain and work
from the end that was cut and tied off. Single
crochet in each chain using only one loop of
the chain. Cut and tie. Turn work.
Row 3: Make slip knot each beginning of
same color facing you. If color A is facing, use
color A (as in this row). Single crochet in each
loop crocheting through color A and one of
color B. Pick up one loop of each color and
crochet through with single crochet stitch.
(See close up photo.)
Row 4: Crochet all succeeding rows in same
manner as row 3.
Decrease or omit one stitch at beginning
and end of every row after third row. If a larger
size shawl is desired, it is advisable to alter¬
nate or skip a row between decreases.
Fringe; Make fringe by wrapping yarn
around cardboard. Cut along one edge. I sug¬
gest 6 inches for the fringe length but it can be
adapted to your personal choice. Knot 3
strands in every other stitch around the two
lower edges. Steam or block the shawl.
POPCORN-STITCH STOLE by Peg Hacking, Cape Coral, Florida
T his fairly large, triangular shaped stole
belies its size because it is so light-weight
and comfortable around one’s shoulders.
Materials Needed
8 oz 4-ply yarn #13 needles
Directions
Cast on 6 sts.
Row 1 — Kl, *(KI, PI, KI) into next st, P3
tog. Repeat from * to last st (KI, PI, KI)
Row 2 — Inc. I st. in first st. Purl to last st.
KI.
Row 3 — KI, *P3 tog., (KI, PI, KI) into
next st. Repeat from * to last st (Kl, PI, Kl)
Row 4 — Same as Row 2
Repeat these 4 rows until straight edge
measures 26”, ending with 4th row.
This knitted shawl is soft appearing, comfortable to wear
and stores or packs in a small space.
Peg's shawl modeled by Gloria Franzen.
Decrease as follows;
Row 1 - Kl, *(K1, PI, Kl) P3 tog. Repeat
from * to last 4 sts. P4 tog.
Row 2 — Kl, Purl to last st. Kl
Row 3 - Kl, *P3 tog. (Kl, PI, Kl). Repeat
from * to last 4 sts. P4 tog.
Row 4 — Same as Row 2
Repeat these 4 rows until 6 sts. remain.
Cast off.
Fringe; Cut 10” strands. Use 4 for each
knot. Tie 1 knot between each popcorn.
GARTER-STITCH STOLE
by Peg Hacking, Cape Coral, Florida
F rom popcorn to garter stitch, here’s an¬
other stole from the nimble fingers of Peg
Hacking. Her dance area calls fora cover up of
minimal warmth and weight.
Materials Needed
Two 4 oz. skeins (2 or 3 ply) yarn
#10*72 needles
Directions
Entire stole is worked in garter stitch.
Cast on 4 sts.
Row 1 — K2, slip a marker on needle, K2
Row 2 — Knit
Row 3 — Kl, increase 1 st., slip marker,
increase 1 st., Kl
Row 4 — Knit
Row 5 — Increase 1 st. in first st.; increase
each side of marker; increase 1 st. in last st.
Put a marker on this side of work to indicate
right side.
Row 6 — Knit
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until piece measures
about 22 inches in center.
Bind off loosely.
To add a fringe, cut 10 inch strands of yarn.
Use 4 strands for each knot. Tie 1 knot in every
other stitch.
A CROCHETED SHAWL
by Eudora Spaur, Tacoma, Washington
T his crocheted shawl was designed by the
mother of square/round dancer and
teacher, Peggy Ruehle. Bless all our mothers!
Directions:
ROW 1: Make a chain long enough to reach from
the break in your wrist to the break in the other
wrist, crossing behind your head (about 4 to 432
The lightness and size of this stole
make it easy to tuck into the corner
of a suitcase to have when needed.
feet). ROW 2: Skip 1 chain and then sc (single
crochet) Irack in each stitch of chain. ROW .3:
Chain 5 ; yarn over and dc (doulile crochet) in
third stitch; chain 3 and dc in .3rd stitch. Repeat
to end of row. ROW 4: Yarn over and dc in 4th
stitch (top of post) 5 times in same stitch. This
makes a shell. Sc in next post, then dc in next post
5 times. Continue across row. ROW 5: Chain 5 ;
sc in top (middle stitch of shell); chain 3 and dc
in top of sc. Continue across row ending with sc
in center of last shell. ROW 6: Same as row 3
ending with dc in sc of last shell. ROW 7 : Yarn
over ’and dc in top of post 5 times in same stitch.
Sc in next post and continue across row. ROW 8;
Same as row' 5 . Continue working rows 6, 7 and
8 until desired length of shawl is reached. By
turning in the top of each shell row' at the end of
the rf)w, yon decrease. Add a row' of sc around
stole to make a place to attach fringe. FRINGE:
Use a piece of cardboard 6 inches wide and w'rap
yarn around it as deep or hea\ y as you like. (Mrs.
Spanr uses 5 strands.) Cut yarn and tie fringe
around low'er edge of shawl. It takes almost one
skein for the fringe.
KNITTED DOLMAN SLEEVE SWEATER
bij Deen Cummings, Santa Barbara, California
T his attractive and comfortable jacket/
sweater is guaranteed to bring compli¬
ments from everyone. The snug, short waist
and wide, loose dolman sleeves make it an
ideal coverup for square dance dresses. How¬
ever, it is equally at home over pants.
The instructions shown here are for a size
12, small bust. Considerable size adjustment
may be made by increasing the number of
rows worked in the front border. Edges of the
jacket should overlap (a double-breasted ef¬
fect) without undue stretching of the yarn.
Note the attractive pattern worked into this sweater.
This unusual pattern is not for the novice
knitter. It is made in two sections (not the
same size) and then knitted together. Each
pattern starts on a sleeve. If you follow the
directions exactly (don’t try to change them),
it does work. Just take vour time.
Materials
4 4-oz skeins 4-ply yarn
Size 7 circular needle
4 (or 6) buttons
Pattern One
Row 1 (right side) k to marker, yo, slip marker,
k2, slip marker, yo, k to end of row
Row 2 p across all sts.
(Always end Pattern One with Row 1)
Pattern Two
Row 1 (wrong side) k across all sts (no in¬
creases)
Row 2 k across all sts
Row 3 p2 tog., yo — repeat to marker, slip
marker, p2, slip marker, yo, p2 tog. to end of
row
Row 4 k across all sts
Row 5 k across all sts
DIRECTIONS
Cast on 30 sts
Work 12 rows in double seed stitch (k2, p2) for
cuff
Row 13 (1st row of Pattern One) k 14, yo, place
marker, k2, place marker, yo, k14 (32 sts)
Row 14 p across
Row 15 thru Row 27 continue in Pattern One
(27th row = 46 sts = 8 increases)
Row 28 thru 32 Pattern Two
Row 33 thru 51 Pattern One (51st row - 66 sts
= 10 increases)
Row 52 thru 56 Pattern Two
Row 57 thru 75 Pattern One (75th row = 86 sts
= 10 increases)
Row 76 thru 80 Pattern Two
Row 81 thru 103 Pattern One (103rd row = 110
sts = 12 increases)
Row 104 thru 108 Pattern Two
At end of 108th row add on 15 sts = 125 sts on
needle
Row 109 work 1st 12 sts in dbl seed, place
marker, k57, yo, slip marker, k2, slip marker,
yo, k to end, then add on 15 sts = 142 sts on
needle
Row 110 Work 1st 12 sts in dbl seed, place
marker, p across to last marker on row, dbl
seed next 12 sts
Row 111 thru 133 Pattern One (keeping 12 sts
in dbl seed at both ends of each row) (133rd row
= 166 sts = 13 increases)
Row 134 thru 138 Pattern Two (keeping dbl
seed border as above)
Place sts on holder (leave yarn attached). Section
one is completed.
With new skein, repeat Row 1 thru 138
Row 139 Seed 12, k70, remove marker, k1
(83 sts = V 2 the row) Place remaining
83 sts on holder.
Row 140 p71, dbl seed 12
Row 141 dbl seed 12, k71
Repeat above two rows thru 165th row (ending
at neck edge) Place these sts on holder (leave
yarn attached)
Section two is completed.
Joining Section One to Section Two
Place just completed part of Section Two
(83 sts) and Ist 83 sts of Section One (opposite
end from where yarn is still attached) with
right sides together, holders parallel. Begin¬
ning at seed border edge, pick up one stitch
alternately from each section until there are
166 sts on needle. Using yarn still attached at
neck edge of Section Two and treating 2 sts
(one from each section) as 1 st, bind off all sts,
being careful to use light tension to avoid a stiff
seam. (Very important to nse light tension.
Seam will be up middle of back but it will not
show.)
Front Border
Starting at dbl seed border edge, pick up 83
sts from Section Two holder (remove 1st
marker, leave 2nd marker on needle). Pick up
30 sts across back. Pick up 83 sts from Section
One holder (leave marker at shoulder). = 196
sts
Using yarn still attached to Section One,
work 82 sts in dbl seed, slip marker, p2, kf&b
next st, p2, k2, p2, kf&b next st, p2, k2, p2,
kf&b next st, p2, kf&b next st, p2, kf&b next
st, p2, k2, p2, kf&b next st, p2 (6 sts added),
slip marker, dbl seed remaining 82 sts = 202
sts on needle. Work 20 more rows of dbl seed.
Bind off loosely in dbl seed.
Button Holes
Since dbl seed border is quite stretchy,
button holes may be made by poking a size 15
needle (or a similar-sized object) through the
border where button holes are desired. Split a
strand of yard and button-hole stitch around
these holes to hold their shape.
KNITTED SHRUG hy Tommi Herringto
n, Potter Valley, California
W HERE WE LIVE, colder weather and some¬
times drafty halls have made this shrug
very popular with the ladies. It keeps their
arms and shoulders warm without being bulky
and can be worn while dancing, if necessary,
without being in the way.
Materials Needed
8 oz. knitting worsted (4 ply)
1 oz. white angora (or Unger Fluffy or Dazzle
Aire)
#10 needles (or #10 circular needle) — Knit
back and forth because of number of
stitches
Directions
6" Collar: Cast on 140 stitches with worsted.
(For larger sizes use 160 or 180 sts)
Work in ribbing, K2, P2, for IV 2 ''.
Tie in white angora and continue to work in
ribbing, K2, P2, for 3".
Break off white yarn and tie in (primary color)
yarn.
Angela Shaddock
models Tommis
shrug.
Row 134 thru 138 Pattern Two (keeping dbl
seed border as above)
Place sts on holder (leave’ yarn attached). Section
one is completed.
With new skein, repeat Row 1 thru 138
Row 139 Seed 12, k70, remove marker, k1
(83 sts = Va the row) Place remaining
83 sts on holder.
Row 140 p71, dbl seed 12
Row 141 dbl seed 12, k71
Repeat above two rows thru 165th row (ending
at neck edge) Place these sts on holder (leave
yarn attached)
Section two is completed.
Joining Section One to Section Two
Place just completed part of Section Two
(83 sts) and 1st 83 sts of Section One (opposite
end from where yarn is still attached) with
right sides together, holders parallel. Begin¬
ning at seed border edge, pick up one stitch
alternately from each section until there are
166 sts on needle. Using yarn still attached at
neck edge of Section Two and treating 2 sts
(one from each section) as 1 st, bind off all sts,
being careful to use light tension to avoid a stiff
seam. (Very important to use light tension.
Seam will be up middle of back but it will not
show.)
Front Border
Starting at dbl seed border edge, pick up 83
sts from Section Two holder (remove 1st
marker, leave 2nd marker on needle). Pick up
30 sts across back. Pick up 83 sts from Section
One holder (leave marker at shoulder). = 196
sts
Using yarn still attached to Section One,
work 82 sts in dbl seed, slip marker, p2, kf&b
next St, p2, k2, p2, kf&b next st, p2, k2, p2,
kf&b next st, p2, kf&b next st, p2, kf&b next
st, p2, k2, p2, kf&b next st, p2 (6 sts added),
slip marker, dbl seed remaining 82 sts = 202
sts on needle. Work 20 more rows of dbl seed.
Bind off loosely in dbl seed.
Button Holes
Since dbl seed border is quite stretchy,
button holes may be made by poking a size 15
needle (or a similar-sized object) through the
border where button holes are desired. Split a
strand of yard and button-hole stitch around
these holes to hold their shape.
KNITTED SHRUG hij Tommi Herrington, Potter Valley, California
W HERE WE LIVE, Colder weather and some¬
times drafty halls have made this shrug
very popular with the ladies. It keeps their
arms and shoulders warm without being bulky
and can be worn while dancing, if necessary,
without being in the way.
Materials Needed
8 oz. knitting worsted (4 ply)
1 oz. white angora (or Unger Fluffy or Dazzle
Aire)
#10 needles (or #10 circular needle) — Knit
back and forth because of number of
stitches
Directions
6” Collar: Cast on 140 stitches with worsted.
(For larger sizes use 160 or 180 sts)
Work in ribbing, K2, P2, for IV 2 ".
Tie in white angora and continue to work in
ribbing, K2, P2, for 3".
Break off white yarn and tie in (primary color)
yarn.
Angela Shadduck
models Tommi's
shrug.
Work in ribbing, K2, P2, for IV 2 ''.
13" Sleeves: Knit 2 tog. across row, 70 sts (80
or 90 for larger sizes).
Cast on 40 sts at beg of each of next 2 rows.
Knit first and last 4 sts in garter stitch. Work
rest of row in ribbing — 150 sts (160 or 170
for larger sizes).
Pattern will be: K4, K2, P2 across row, K4.
K4, K2, P2 across row, K4.
Work in pattern 13" from last cast on stitches.
SQUARE DANCE JACKET
by Pat Walker, Seattle, Washington
P AT MADE THIS attractive and easy-to-sew
jacket from washable, black fake fur, lined
with washable, black velvet. It is reversible,
which makes it ideal for both square dancing
and non-dancing evenings.
Pat's Instructions
To make your pattern, use 24" shelf-type
paper, or use 18" paper, adding an additional
strip along the side to make it 24" square.
Follow the diagram shown here. This diagram is
for the back pattern. The front is the same
Bind off 40 sts at beginning of each of next 2
rpws.
6" Back: Work remaining stitches in ribbing
for 6". Bind off in pattern loosely. Fold in
Halt and sew or crochet together. The back
(last 6") will be sewn on side of collar (first
6 ").
Block garment
To wear, roll the collar back. Insert arms in
sleeves and adjust collar on neck.
except cut it 1^" lower at the neckline. This
pattern will fit sizes 12-16.
When cutting velvet or velveteen, be sure to
lay the fabric with the pile side up. Place the
pattern with pile running up. Sew with silk
thread and stitch with pile, that is sew from the
bottom up.
If you want a collar, use a straight piece of
fabric cut 2" wide.
This pattern would also be lovely in wash¬
able white fake fur or in a spring color
reversible with your favorite washable wool.
SQUARE DANCE PONCHO
by Rosalie Jerousak^ Berkley, Illinois
E njoy the color, warmth and easy wear-
ability of this full-circle crocheted pon¬
cho. In rainbow hues, it will go with any outfit.
Materials Needed
14 skeins (4 ply knitting yarn) of 14 different
colors of your choice Short Row 4: 1 sc in next space, * ch 1, 1 sc in
Size J crochet hook next space, repeat from * to last 3 sc, ch 1, 1 si
St in next space, ch 1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until last row has 1 sc, ch
1 and 1 sc, ending at outer edge and drawing
Color B through 2 loops of last sc, drop Color
A, ch 2, turn.
**Long Row: * 1 sc in next space, ch 1, 1 sc in
next si St, ch 1, repeat from *, end 1 sc in
turning cb; 48 spaces, ch 1, turn. Repeat Rows
3 and 4, working until last row has 1 sc, ch 1
and 1 sc, end at outer edge, drawing Color C
through 2 loops of last sc, ch 2, turn. **
Repeat from ** to ** using your next 11 colors.
Last Row; Using your last color, repeat the
Long Row and then fasten off.
Border: Join yarn at center edge, * ch 1, 1 sc in
next space, repeat from * to corner, inc in
Directions corner by working 1 sc and ch 1 in same place
With Color A, ch 97. as last sc, work in pattern to next corner, inc as
Row 1: 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook. *ch 1, skip 1 before, work in pattern on other edge to cen-
ch, 1 sc in next ch, repeat from * across; 48 sc ter, ch 1, turn. Using up remaining colors in
and 48 spaces, ch 2, turn. same color sequence as on the body of the
Row 2: Skip first sc, 1 sc in next space, * ch 1, 1 poncho, continue to inc at corners and work to
sc in next space, repeat from * to last sc, ch 1, si last 3 sc at end of each row, ch 1, turn. Con¬
st in turning ch, cn 1,’ turn. tinue in this way until only 2 colors remain.
Row 3: 1 sc in first space, * ch 1, 1 sc in next With next 2 colors work all around to finish
space, repeat from * across, end ch 1, 1 sc in edges at neck and across the center. Fasten
turning ch, ch 2, turn. off.
A BLANKET PONCHO by Marlene Gordon, San Fernando, California
T his UNUSUAL poncho is warm, practical, at- Take the blanket and fold it lengthwise. Pin
tractive, easy-to-make, inexpensive and yonr pattern at one end of the blanket and
simple to launder. What more could you ask draw around it. Cut out the cur\'e, being care-
for? The basic material is a twin-size thermal ful not to cut the folded edge as this fold
blanket. makc's the shoulder line between the front and
back of the poncho. Remove the pattern and
Start bv making a semi-circular pattern out save it and the rest of the blanket for your
of brown wrapping paper. Mark off a 41" next poncho.
straight edge. At the middle of this line, draw To cut out the neckline, make a mark UP'
a line at right angles 2.5" long. From the end down the front from the center of the folded
of this 2.5" line, draw curves back to both edge and /I" down the back. Cut the front
ends of the 41" line. This semi-circle will be neckline first making a gentle curse from the
slightlv less than half of a full circle. 1 %" mark back to the shoulder line. Adjust the
A color photo would show a variety of green,
yellow, blue, lavendar, red and white pon¬
chos. Choosing a solid color trim or a two-
toned trim gives a completely different look to
the finished garment.
hack of the neckline as needed. The M" mark
is just an approximation.
After the neck is cut out, cut the front of
the poncho, being careful to cut down a
straight line of the waffle weave from the cen¬
ter of the neck. DO NOT CROSS OVER THE
WEAVE. If it does not seem straight, it will
correct itself when you are working on it.
With vour sewing machine, straight stitch
around all edges of the poncho; then continue
around a second time using vour zig-zag stitch.
Turn back all edges M to 'A" except for the
front which you will turn hack 1". Hand tack.
Add three rows of single crochet stitching
around the bottom edge of the poncho. Make
the first row approximately M" deep. You may
use one color for the crocheting or vou mav
choose two contrasting colors, alternating the
rows of color.
With the same polyester yarn make a fringe.
Cut each fringe 9" long and double it so there
are four strands of yarn tied on each single
crochet stitch at the bottom edge.
To make sleev'es, measure 22” from the front
of the poncho and then measure 33" from the
22" point. Bring these two points together and
attach with one fringe tied into both crochet
stitches.
To fasten the poncho make 5 chain stitches
twice near the top of the neck line for button
loops.
Your poncho is complete. When laundering
is needed, just toss it in the washer and dryer.
And remember, two ponchos from one blanket!
EASY-TO-SEW CAPE by Natalie King, Eureka, California
A re you tired of going to the square dances
with your fluffy dress all wadded up under
your street coat? Then try making a cape to
wear with your square dance outfits. Capes are
pretty, practical and easy to make.
Cut a pattern first. Measure across your
shoulders at the back and mark off on paper.
Draw the shoulder line first and then finish by
measuring down your arms as far as you wish
the cape to come.
Look for your cape material in the drapery
yardage department. Nubby weaves, twills and
textured fabrics are most effective.
To line the cape, cut lining of contrasting or
color-matched fabric from basic pattern. With
right sides of cape and lining together, sew
around all edges, leaving neck edge open. Turn,
press and hand stitch neck edge. A print lining
to match a skirt or dress is fun and a flannel
lining gives extra warmth.
If you do line your cape, remember to sew
aU the trim on before attaching the lining.
Choose heavy "curtain fringe,” ball fringe, orn¬
amental looping or wide ric racs and metallic
tapes. Keep your trims rather heavy for good
balance. Try a narrow self-ruffle, either double
These two patterns are
all you need to make
or narrowly hemmed; or a double row of brass
buttons marching down the front; or bands of
hand embroidery or appliques.
For closings you may use ready-made frogs.
giant hooks and eyes (meant to show); link
fastenings such as are used on coats; wide, sash¬
like ties that make pussy-cat bows or simply, a
huge safety pin gilded or painted by you!
THE CIRCLE CAPE
shared by Dawn Draper, North Hollywood, California
C APES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN POPULAR with la¬
dies, and the distaff side of square dancing
is no exception. A very easy-to-make cape is a
circle cape. Basically all that is required is to
cut a fabric circle and make slits for your arms.
How fancy your cape will be depends on the
trim and/or material you select.
For winter weather, wool fabric is a good
choice. For summertime, a blended fabric
will be enough to ward off any evening chill.
When you choose a material which is attrac¬
tive on both sides, you eliminate an un¬
finished appearance. For a fairly long cape,
buy 60" wide fabric. For a shorter cape, use
45". The length of fabric should always equal
the width.
Directions
Fold the square of fabric into quarters. Lay
it flat, smoothing out all wrinkles. Cut a piece
of string the length from the center comer of
your folded material to the selvage edge. Pin
one end of the string to the center comer. Tie
or hold sewing chalk at the other end. Use this
string as a compass to mark the cutting edge.
(Perhaps you remember as a child tieing a
piece of string to a pencil and, by holding one
end of the string taut, you could draw a circle
with the pencil. This is the same principle but
you will draw only one fourth of a circle.)
Cut through all four thicknesses of fabric.
Open the fabric and lay out a complete
circle of material. About 8" on either side of
the center of the circle, mark two lines. These
lines should be 13" long, 6W on either side of
your fold line. These form the two arm slits in
the cape.
Finish off the armholes (like bound button
|<-60" or 45"-*1
F
9
o
CD
iL
A simple cape for any season depending on the fabric.
holes) by using the same fabric as your cape or
with contrasting fabric of your choice.
The outer edge of the cape may be left
unfinished if you have used fabric which does
not ravel, or you can bind it with bias strips,
matching the fabric used on the armholes.
Another idea is to trim it with a yarn fringe. If
you use bias strips, you will need approxi¬
mately three times the fabric width plus 12
additional inches.
Easy to make, comfortable to wear and, of
course, the cape can serve double duty over
street wear as well as with your square dance
costumes. You may just decide to make sev¬
eral for yourself and to gift your favorite
square dance friends.
ROUND PETTICOAT BAG Weatherford
T his petticoat bag has become a mainstay of
many dancers for more than a decade.
You’ll enjoy having one. The bag is a full circle
and can be used flat under a bed for storing
petticoats, or folded in half and carried when
traveling. The bag will hold from one to four
petticoats depending on their fullness.
Materials Needed
2‘A yards of 45" fabric
5 snap fasteners
Directions
To make a pattern, take pages from your
newspaper which have a left-hand fold. Fold
this half again across the paper so that you end
with four sections which come together in a
point at the upper left-hand corner. Make a
compass with a pencil and a 22" piece of string
(Remember how you did this in school?) and
holding the end of the string firmly at the
folded corners of the paper, draw a 22" one-
quarter circle. Cut the pattern out. You will
have a full circle. Fold in half for a half-circle
pattern.
Take your fabric and fold it together
lengthwise with the selvedge edges together.
Place the half circle pattern on the fold of
material and cut. Unfold for one full circle.
For the other side of the bag, place pattern
on the remaining fabric with the straight side
of the pattern by the selvedge edges. Allow
IV 2 " of selvedge for snaps and center seams;
cut. Hem center seams with a %" hem.
Hem both sides of this piece, overlapping
seams and stitch together 9" from each side to
make opening.
Place snap fasteners evenly across opening
and snap together. You now have your second
circle.
Cut two 2''xl2" strips of fabric for the han¬
dles. Fold and stitch each piece. Fold each of
these again and stitch to opposite sides of one
circle so they will be on the outside of the bag
when the two circles are stitched together.
Pin the two circles together, wrong side
out, and stitch. Turn bag right side out
through the snap opening.
DRAWSTRING PETTICOAT TOTE
hy Lorraine Melrose, Walnut Creek, California
M IX OR MATCH fabrics for this useful petti¬
coat tote or storer. Fabric is highly rec¬
ommended rather than plastics which do not
breathe and tend to leave an odor.
Cut out pieces according to Figure 1. Sew
all but one side seam, making either a zig¬
zagged finish, French or flat-felled seams or
use bias tape to finish. Finish small end of
bag by hemming or using bias tape. Then sew
around large opening. Attach to edge of large
opening to form a casing for draw strings.
Before hemming down the casing, make two
buttonholes opposite each other on the bag
itself for the drawstrings.
To make the drawstrings use bias tape sewn
shut, or make your own. Make two strings
each long enough to go around the opening
plus 8". Drawstrings will come out each side
(see Figure 2).
Casing
(on inside)
Buttonhoies
for drawstrings
PETTICOAT CARRIER by Abby Estes, Sedona, Arizona
T his tote can be made from any type of
fabric — cotton, dacron, sailcloth, denim,
bedsheets, etc. Obviously using a drip-dry
material will be easiest when considering
laundering. Watch fabric stores for remnant
sales as less than two yards of material are
required.
Materials required:
1% yards of 36" material
1 metal zipper 22" long
Matching thread
Directions: Cut 2 circles 18" in diameter
side by side each lengthwise of material. Take
the remaining material and cut one piece 36"
wide and 25" long; then cut another 18" wide
and 25" long. Stitch these two pieces together
making one piece 54" wide and 25" long.
Sew the zipper in the middle leaving a 1%"
seam at each end. Sew in a circle at each end.
(If desired, sew on the circles with the seams
on the outside and then bind with a colorful
bias binding.) Be sure to leave the zipper
open before sewing in the second circle.
Make the handle by cutting a strip of mate¬
rial 5" long and 2)^" wide. Fold lengthwise
with the raw edges turned in and top stitch
around. Sew the handle on either in the mid¬
dle of the carrier or at the end.
Smaller, matching carriers can be made by
adjusting the above instructions. An 8" circle
with a 14" to 16" zipper will carry slippers
and pantalettes, while a 5" circle with a 9" to
10" zipper is just right for holding odds and
ends.
Cutting directions
i-- y</s -
AN IDEA FOR PETTICOAT STORAGE
by Charlie and MaryBelle Robbins, Encino, California
C HARLIE AND MARY BELLE ROBBINS of bedroom, they decided that one wall would
Encino, California, active square and round make an excellent area to store several petti-
dancers, recently faced up to the problem of coats, making them available and yet dust-free,
petticoat storage and decided to handle it in an First, one clothes rod was lowered so that it
efficient, attractive and out-of-the-way manner, hung just dress length above the floor. Then
Taking a look at the walk-in closet off their starting approximately 2 inches above the rod.
a '/4" plywood shelf was run the full length of
the wall. A second shelf was added 11 inches
above it and a third shelf another 11 inches
above that. The shelves were 14" deep.
Every 11 inches, Charlie nailed on a Va" x
strip which had been groved 1/8". He suggests
Square dance dresses hang directly below the petti¬
coats. This type of storage may be limited to just one bin
or to several depending on the closet space available.
that one-quarter round, grooved in the same
manner, would also work. Slots of masonite (or
you could use plywood) 1/8" thick were cut to
fit and slid into each groove, making cubby¬
holes ll"x 14". In their closet, the Robbins
were able to build about 16 cubbyholes on two
shelves. The top shelf, a bit high for easy
accessability, was left for hat storage.
Careful sanding and painting completed the
project.
Each petticoat tucks into its own bin and it’s
a quick decision to coordinate a petticoat with
a dress when it’s time to dance.
A SQUARE DANCE BOW TIE
by Munich Dip-N-Divers, Munich, Germany
T ies are an important accessory for the male
square dancer. A man may prefer a scarf
tie, a bolo tie or a bow tie. The latter, for
square dancing, comes with “tails, ” as con¬
trasted with the regular type of bow tie. Bow
ties may be purchased from a number of
commercial outfits or they can be made by the
home seamstress. They may be made in solid
colors, two or more colors, and are especially
attractive when made to match m’lady’s dress.
Just a bit of leftover fabric is all that is needed.
Fancy bow ties are often decorated with se¬
quins, jewels, embroidery, etc.
Here are instructions for making a bow tie,
as given in a past copy of the Munich Dip-
N-Divers Newsletter.
Materials Needed
1 metal bow tie clip
1 piece of fabric 10" long x 2 V 2 '' wide
1 piece of fabric I 2 V 2 ” long x 2" wide
1 piece of fabric 2" long x P/ 2 " wide
Directions
Fold the 10" piece of fabric in half, with
right sides together. Stitch a V4” seam so that
you end up with a long, narrow tube, 10” long
by 1" wide. (A)
Turn the tube right side out bv using a
needle and thread as follows. Take a secure
stitch on one of the open ends. Let the needle
drop down through to the other end and gen¬
tly pull the thread and material through the
tube until the tube is right side out with the
seam on the inside. Press flat. Stitch the ends
together.
Fold the tube so that stitched ends are in
center back. Take a piece of thread and wrap it
around middle of the tube to make a bow. (B)
B
On the back, make two slits, one on either
side of the middle. Slip the metal clip into
these slits. (C)
SLITS
With the 12 * 72 " piece of fabric, make a sec¬
ond tube, following the procedure already
given. This tube will end up being 12%” long
by %" wide and will be used for the “tails.”
Tuck in the raw ends of the tube and slip
stitch.
Hold the “tails” under the bow and wrap
with a piece of thread to secure in place.
Take the small 2" piece of fabric and fold
the raw edges into the middle. Press so that
the right side is out. Wrap this piece of fabric
round the center of the tie, covering the
center back of the clip as well. Turn the raw
edges under and hand stitch securely in back.
This holds everything in place.
Voila — your bow tie!
THE SCARF TIE
by Lorraine Melrose, Walnut Creek, California
S urprise your dancing partner by sewing
him a scarf tie. These ties, worn in the early
days of square dancing, enjoy a resurgence of
popularity every few seasons.
Draft a paper pattern as shown in Figure
#1. You will need approximately 20" of 45"
material. The tie is made on the bias and may
be pieced in the middle which saves yardage.
Hemming: Use small hemmer foot. One
method of producing a nice hem is to start at
Point A and hem halfway along Side 1. Then
start at Point B and hem along Side 2 to Point
A. Next finish Side 1 to Point B. This helps
to finish the two points more neatly. Round
the two comers (x) for greater ease of sew¬
ing. See Figure #2.
die. Next stitch a section approximately 3%”
in length in center to hold folds. See Figure #4.
F!QURE^3
Folds: Number of folds vary, from 3 to 7.
Finished width after folding should be ap¬
proximately K". For 7 folds see Figure #3.
Start with outer edge, folding in. Do C; then
do D; then fold the two together in the mid-
r'
\
v_
FieuRe*-4
- 3 ^:^"
_\_
\
_ _
_ \ _
I
i
~\
\
CROCHET A WESTERN TIE by Loretta McAvoy, Belvidere, Illinois
T ired of your square dance ties? Want
something a httle different? Perhaps you
men can talk the little woman into fashioning
a crocheted western tie — unique, neat and
easy to wear. Point out to her that this is the
way she goes about it.
Using cotton metallic knit Cro-Sheen, these
are the directions for the overall pattern. Chain
nine, skip first stitch and single crochet in next
stitch; double crochet in same stitch. Skip next
stitch then single crochet and double crochet
in next stitch until completed across. When
you get to the end of each row, chain one and
turn. Repeat each row the same for desired
length. Make two separate pieces. One is for
the bow, 9" long. One is for the tail, 12H" long.
This is worked back and forth.
For the centerpiece of the tie, chain twenty,
then skip first single crochet and single crochet
in each stitch across, chaining one at the end
Proper Care
Attention given to proper storage, han¬
dling and washing of petticoats will extend
their use as well as their attractiveness.
Shake out petticoats regularly. Use the fluff
mode of your dryer (with no heat) to re¬
move dust and keep them lively. Wash in
cold or lukewarm water using a liquid de¬
tergent. Do not twist or wring but gently
press out excess water. Fold petticoats over
a shower rod or clothesline, pinning in sev¬
eral places to distribute the weight evenly
while they dry.
of each row to turn. Repeat each row until it
measures M" wide. It will be about 2" long.
To assemble, press each of the three pieces
after tucking in crocheted ends. Put “iron-on”
tape on the back side of the bow to keep its
shape.
Fold the ends together and whip together
with sewing thread. Use the same color “iron-
on” tape as knit Cro-Sheen thread used in cro¬
cheting the tie. Find center, then fold sides to¬
gether at center and whip together with a
couple of stitches. Decorate the front side of
the bow and the tail with ric rac as you wish.
The centerpiece is the same for plain or fancy tie.
Take the bow piece in one hand and wrap
some heavy thread around it several times,
pulling the thread tight. Tie knot and clip end
of thread. Next sew tie clip on the back side
of the bow. Take the tail and hold it next to
the bow and wrap thread, at center of bow and
tail, around both together. Clip thread. Now
you are ready to wrap the centerpiece over the
bow and tail and whip the ends together on
the back side.
That’s it for a plain tie. If you want to be a
little more fancy use gold or silver ric rac on
the bow and tail by sewing each on by hand
and picking up the points of ric rac. Press be¬
fore assembling and use a warm iron with a
brown paper bag over it so as not to discolor
the metallic ric rac. If you use ric rac cut two
small pieces of “iron-on tape” with rounded
comers and press on the back side to cover the
ends neatly. This will “tie up” the job nicely.
fit the neck with the hook and eye at the center flat sinnet with square knots on two center
back. Remove, position and pin to working strands, beginning directly below the hook and
surface. Fold over excess portion of strands, eye. Tie an overhand knot on each end close to
Using free ends as working strands, tie a 1" long sinnet. Trim ends.
SAFETY-PIN BOLO TIES shared by Jim Spence, Sunland, California
A NUMBER OF CRAFT and hobbv companies
have kits on the market for making bolo
ties (as well as other jewelry) involving the
ingenious use of wire, beads and/or safety
pins. From a distance (and not always too
distant) it is easy to mistake these ties for ones
made with stones and, on occasion, for some
which feature genuine turquoi.se.
A number of clever men and ladies have
come up with their own patterns for bolos and
with a bit of experimenting, no doidrt many of
our readers also will emulate the more expen¬
sive jewelry, or, check your local hobby shop
for one of the various kits available.
The Horseshoe
Regretfully black and white photography
does not do justice to the color in this particu¬
lar tie which uses silver safety pins, 3/4" long,
and silver and turquoi.se-colored beads. One
silver bead and three turquoise beads are
threaded onto each safety pin, before it is
closed. Narrow wire is threaded through the
caps of the safety pins as well as a second wire
run through the opposite end of the pins.
With the pins held in the shape desired (this
time a horseshoe), the wires are twisted to¬
gether and tightened. The resulting decora¬
tion is attached to a leather tie.
The Sunburst
This tie is made of safety pins and black and
silver beads. Three beads (one silver and two
black) are threaded onto each pin. The neck¬
lace part of the bolo is made by alternating a
horizontal pin with three vertical pins; then a
horizontal pin and two patterns of two vertical
pins. The horizontal pins do not contain any
beads.
Detail
The circular dangle at the bottom of the
bolo is made of 15 safety pins (strung with
beads) interspersed with one circle of large
silver beads strung on wire at the perimeter.
The small coil end of the pins is also held in
place with wire. Three sets of beaded pins
hang at the lower edge of the sunburst.
Attention, Men!
If Rosie Greer can knit and do needlework,
so can you. Some very fine handicraft work has
been done by the male side of square dancing.
Beautifully designed costumes, knitted
sweaters, fine beadwork and so on have been
produced by gentlemen. The safety-pin ties
shown above were a craft project of round
dance teacher, Jim Spence. So don’t feel that
this Handbook is limited only to the ladies.
A DRAWSTRING BAG by Colleen Bender, Walnut Creek, California
A bac to match a square dance dress that
takes little material and is easy to make.
An extra 24" of fabric is all you’ll need.
Materials Needed
12" X 24" piece of fabric
24" or longer cording or tape
Directions
Take the 12" x 24" piece of fabric and fold
it in half across the 12" width, thus forming a
piece 12" x 12". (See Figure a.)
24"
Figure a I
Starting at the top, stitch down 5}i" on
each side leaving a %" opening for the draw¬
string. Continue the seam below the opening
to the bottom. (See Figure b.)
Press the seams open. Press %" under on
the open end. Turn this open end under 3"
more and stitch into place.
Stitch another row above the first
stitching being careful to have the %!" opening
within the two lines of stitching.
Insert cording or tape into the casing
formed by the %" opening (or use ribbon,
string, yam, etc.). Be sure to knot or fasten
the ends of the drawstring together so they
won’t slip through.
A CROCHETED BAG by Jessie Mullen, Olympia, Washington
A n attractive and lightweight purse large
enough to carry your necessities but small
enough to slip over a coat hanger or wall hook
at your club dance.
Directions
Cut the center from the top of a 1 lb. plastic
magarine container, leaving a ring. Be sure
you do not cut the ring. You will need two
plastic lids for each handbag. Use 4-play yarn
and a G or H crochet hook.
Fill the ring with single crochet; don’t
break the thread. Crochet 1 SC, 1 DC for 30
stitches (on ring SC), turn and repeat for 14
rows. Break thread.
Make an identical piece; then crochet the
two sections together, leaving 6 rows open at
each side of the rings for an easy opening.
For a smaller version of the purse, use the
top of a 14 lb. margarine container (again you
will need two lids) and put on 20 to 22 stitches
and 10 to 12 rows. If you finish with a SC, the
next row begins with a DC. This smaller ver¬
sion makes a happy gift for a little daughter or
granddaughter.
Bags may be color-matched to any or all of
your square dance dresses and would make
most-appreciated and useful gifts for square
dance friends. The purse shown here fits eas¬
ily into a 10"xll" plastic freezer bag to store
in a drawer or pack in a suitcase and keep it
dust free.
SHOE TOTES
shared by Aggie Reid, Puyallup, Washington
A disguiseI What appears to be a miniature
pair of pantaloons in actuality is a hiding
E lace for square dance slippers. This tote may
e carried to a dance or used in a suitcase to
separate the shoes from other clothing. Each
tote will hold at least two pairs of dancing
slippers plus a pair of hose tucked into each
pocket. They sew up in a jifly. You’ll enjoy
having one and they make dandy gifts for
square dance friends.
Materials Needed
Two pieces of fabric measuring 14" x 15"
each
One piece of fabric, 4" x 15"
Two pieces of fabric each 5" square
Trim, thread, snaps
Directions
Fold one pant leg, i.e. one 14" x 15" piece
of fabric, in half lengthwise. Turn and sew
Shoes disappear
into each pant
leg.
Looking like a
miniature pair of
pants, the shoe
totes are not
much bigger than
a pair of slippers.
across one end and up the side halfway. Re¬
peat for the second piece of similar fabric. Sew
the two legs together on one side from the
halfway mark to the top.
Turn and sew f4" seams on both sides of the
openings from crotch to waist.
Fold the 4" x 15" piece of fabric in half
lengthwise and sew one side to leg pieces,
pleating in the legs to measure 14*72" at the
waist. Turn and sew other side down, finish¬
ing the waistband.
Cut two pockets from the two 5" pieces of
fabric, shaping them as desired. Turn in Vt" or
*/4" seams on all sides and topstitch to front of
pant legs.
Close waistband with snaps at the back.
Trim as desired. Fabric can be mixed or
matched in color and pattern. A good way to
use up scrap material.
The Frosting on the Cake
We might consider wraps worn over square dance dresses as the “frosting on the cake. ” They
top off our costume and give it a truly finished appearance to and from the dance. However let’s
never overlook what we wear underneath. Proper and attractive costuming—how we dress—is
an important partner to how we dance. Both done to the best of our ability will allow us to enjoy
this wonderful recreation to the fullest. What we wear tabs us as square dancers to the general
population. It also is a key to newcomers to the activity suggesting how they should dress. Are
we giving the best impression possible? Expensive costuming does not always mean good
costuming. A look in one’s own mirror will let a person know if she has selected a dress suited to
her figure and coloring. Check the length. Does it flatter you? Will the dress dance well? Enjoy
looking beautiful in your square dance clothing and have fun dancing!
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11